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stainless USA is fine if its china then a magnet will stick to it < well they call it stainless anyway
who ever it was that said you install it dry the valves in the guides is a buffoon - and looking to cause you financial Harm
today the gas is not leaded ( even the gas that they say is leaded - like it was before Un leaded ) is not what it once was - and alcohol fuel is no friend to metal on metal
anything will be fine as in what ever you use as an oil even - stp or lucas oil booster or assemble lube is even better - hope I answered it for you
stainless USA is fine if its china then a magnet will stick to it < well they call it stainless anyway
who ever it was that said you install it dry the valves in the guides is a buffoon - and looking to cause you financial Harm
today the gas is not leaded ( even the gas that they say is leaded - like it was before Un leaded ) is not what it once was - and alcohol fuel is no friend to metal on metal
anything will be fine as in what ever you use as an oil even - stp or lucas oil booster or assemble lube is even better - hope I answered it for you
valves are quality stainless from Goodson, I did 'the magnet check'. Since I've got them i will go ahead and use them. However i have ordered cast iron guides from Goodson and put the bronze ones on the shelf. As i mentioned earlier in this thread the original guides measured out as being like new on the internal diameter but they are longer, which seems to be a problem when it comes to putting stem seals on. Maybe that's why the old seals were loose. Also with the same order are 2 guide reamers. One for intake and one for exhaust as i remember the exhaust valve requires a little more tolerance.
Another learning blunder: don't buy cheap tools. The valve spring compressor i wasted $20 on is complete garbage.
the intake and exhaust valve stems are not the same diameter - as they are different by .001 of an inch so the correct intake reamer does both to the spec
the intake and exhaust valve stems are not the same diameter - as they are different by .001 of an inch so the correct intake reamer does both to the spec
All of my new valve stems mice'd (micrometer) out at 0.375, exhaust and intake.
So my valve guides got delivered to the wrong address, thank you USPS. It's a frequent mistake in my neck of the woods. While I'm waiting i decided to start cleaning up the rocker boxes. What a difference a little elbow grease and some sandpaper makes. There's still a little pitting visible. We'll see if some buffing compound can take care of that
The rear cylinder head was the same way when i got to the old stem seals, except the exhaust seal was loose. I didn't get pics then, but this time i got pics of the stem seals on the front head. All the seals were smashed. The tiny little 'springs' were missing. Explains why the oiling system was plugged up. A miracle the engine wasn't destroyed from the inside. Is this a case of putting stem seals on guides that were NOT designed to have seals? The new guides from Goodson are shorter above the shoulder and have a taper. The guides that were in are taller but the intake had a taper, not the exhaust. I wonder what that's about?
the idea stupid as it was back then -was the longer guide would be better at keeping oil out of the combustion chamber < no it did not - then they still used a hi lift cam .450 is ho for a shovel and the travel - distance between the bottom of the top retainer installed on the valve with the keepers - and the top of the valve guide with the seal installed
they never checked that - and at full cam lift the retainer hit the seal and smashed it - causing the oil issue you have as any oil on the stem will get pumped directly into the guide - and not deflecting it as a seal does
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