New member and new Harley owner
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 27
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From: oregon
New member and new Harley owner
Same title as my intro thread. I mistakenly asked questions in my intro thread, so I will ask them again here. I bought this 1970 Harley from people that I don't think know any more about Harley's than I do. I rode a bi-centenial edition Superglide when a friend bought it new, he still has it, but he just likes his bike, so I don't know an expert to ask the newb type questions. I bought it, spur of the moment anyway.
To explain what I know about Harleys, it was too dark the evening that I agreed to buy it to look for the serial numbers. I didn't know where to look for the engine number and didn't try to find it. The serial starts with a 1A and ends with a H0. What are the differences between a 1A and a 2A? My bike has a full fairing, saddle bags and a trunk. I don't think I want to keep the fairing or the trunk on. If my bike is an FL what is an FLH? I was told the fairing was added at some point.
I tried to bring the bike home on my 3 rail MC trailer. It isn't a home built trailer either, but it is old(1978) and I only use it to haul dirt bikes. It crushed that trailer when I was leaving the driveway. I have a picture of it on the broken trailer. I bent down the forward (front) rail and backed up a M101 military trailer and then come-a-longed it into that trailer from the broken trailer, which sits high off the ground. It is still in that trailer. I intend to lift it out. I have a picture of the busted trailer in my intro thread.
The bike hasn't ran in 15 years and was under a tarp for the last 3 months when I got it. It was very hard to push around, especially uphill. I live where nothing is flat so it is still in the trailer while I figure out what to do.
I will be working on the fuel system 1st as the tank is rusty inside with very old gas. It doesn't have a kick starter, or battery so I'm hoping the engine is free, if not I will have many questions. I didn't like buying it without knowing for sure, but it is what it is.
It has 58000+ miles on the odo.
Pictures are really difficult because there is no room in the trailer.
I bought the bike for it's originality, but I don't know what is supposed to be original on a 1970 so I intend to get pictures posted, hopefully soon.
Thanks
To explain what I know about Harleys, it was too dark the evening that I agreed to buy it to look for the serial numbers. I didn't know where to look for the engine number and didn't try to find it. The serial starts with a 1A and ends with a H0. What are the differences between a 1A and a 2A? My bike has a full fairing, saddle bags and a trunk. I don't think I want to keep the fairing or the trunk on. If my bike is an FL what is an FLH? I was told the fairing was added at some point.
I tried to bring the bike home on my 3 rail MC trailer. It isn't a home built trailer either, but it is old(1978) and I only use it to haul dirt bikes. It crushed that trailer when I was leaving the driveway. I have a picture of it on the broken trailer. I bent down the forward (front) rail and backed up a M101 military trailer and then come-a-longed it into that trailer from the broken trailer, which sits high off the ground. It is still in that trailer. I intend to lift it out. I have a picture of the busted trailer in my intro thread.
The bike hasn't ran in 15 years and was under a tarp for the last 3 months when I got it. It was very hard to push around, especially uphill. I live where nothing is flat so it is still in the trailer while I figure out what to do.
I will be working on the fuel system 1st as the tank is rusty inside with very old gas. It doesn't have a kick starter, or battery so I'm hoping the engine is free, if not I will have many questions. I didn't like buying it without knowing for sure, but it is what it is.
It has 58000+ miles on the odo.
Pictures are really difficult because there is no room in the trailer.
I bought the bike for it's originality, but I don't know what is supposed to be original on a 1970 so I intend to get pictures posted, hopefully soon.
Thanks
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,890
Likes: 553
From: USA
Congrats on your new bike and welcome to the forum.
A lot of knowledgeable members with technical expertise on here.
Here is some info on checking if your bike is original with respect to frame and engine. Title/registration must match the frame...it's the law. If your frame and engine match, then you have a survivor. Post pics and the members here will tear it up and tell you exactly what is not original.
1970-1980:
From 1970 to 1980 the VIN number could be found on both the frame and the engine and would match exactly with the exception of a few months in 1979 which was due to an idea by the factory to make them different. The idea was quickly killed after law enforcement notified Harley-Davidson that it made the bikes look stolen. The production date range was from 1/9/1979 to 2/7/1979. The VIN numbers affected are 43000H9 through 48199H9. The engine numbers where 10 digit numerical IDs.
The VIN numbers of this era where 9 digit codes where the first two digits corresponded to the model code (see list below), the next 5 digits were the production numbers (always starting above 10,000) and the last 2 digits were the year code (see list below).
Example:
ModelProduction NumberYear
2A10859H4
Model Codes:
1A = FL/FLP-12003D = Z-902G = XLT-1000
2A = FLH -12004D = XLA3G = FLH-80
3A = XL - XLH-10005D = SX-1755G = FLT-80
4A = XLCH-10006D = SX-2506G = FXE-80
5A = GE-7507D = MX-2507G = FXS-80
6A = SS-350 Sprint9D = FXE - 12009G = FXWG-80
7A = SX-1254E = XLS-10001H = FXB-80
8A = M65-S5E = FXEF-12002H = CLE-80 Sidecar
7B = ERS6E = FXEF-803H = FLH-80 Classic
8B = MSR-1007E = FLHS-12005H = FLHS-80
2C = FX -12009E = SS-2506H = FL-80
3C = SX-350 Sprint2F = FXS - 12007H = FLH-1200 Police
5C = MC-653F = SXT-1258H = FLH-1200 Shrine
6C = SR-1004F = SS-1759H = FLH-80 Police
1D = LE Sidecar6F = SS-1251K = FLH-80 Shrine
2D = X-907F = XLCR-1000
Year Codes:
H0 = 1970H3 = 1973H6 = 1976H9 = 1979
H1 = 1971H4 = 1974H7 = 1977J0 = 1980
H2 = 1972H5 = 1975H8 = 1978
A lot of knowledgeable members with technical expertise on here.
Here is some info on checking if your bike is original with respect to frame and engine. Title/registration must match the frame...it's the law. If your frame and engine match, then you have a survivor. Post pics and the members here will tear it up and tell you exactly what is not original.
1970-1980:
From 1970 to 1980 the VIN number could be found on both the frame and the engine and would match exactly with the exception of a few months in 1979 which was due to an idea by the factory to make them different. The idea was quickly killed after law enforcement notified Harley-Davidson that it made the bikes look stolen. The production date range was from 1/9/1979 to 2/7/1979. The VIN numbers affected are 43000H9 through 48199H9. The engine numbers where 10 digit numerical IDs.
The VIN numbers of this era where 9 digit codes where the first two digits corresponded to the model code (see list below), the next 5 digits were the production numbers (always starting above 10,000) and the last 2 digits were the year code (see list below).
Example:
ModelProduction NumberYear
2A10859H4
Model Codes:
1A = FL/FLP-12003D = Z-902G = XLT-1000
2A = FLH -12004D = XLA3G = FLH-80
3A = XL - XLH-10005D = SX-1755G = FLT-80
4A = XLCH-10006D = SX-2506G = FXE-80
5A = GE-7507D = MX-2507G = FXS-80
6A = SS-350 Sprint9D = FXE - 12009G = FXWG-80
7A = SX-1254E = XLS-10001H = FXB-80
8A = M65-S5E = FXEF-12002H = CLE-80 Sidecar
7B = ERS6E = FXEF-803H = FLH-80 Classic
8B = MSR-1007E = FLHS-12005H = FLHS-80
2C = FX -12009E = SS-2506H = FL-80
3C = SX-350 Sprint2F = FXS - 12007H = FLH-1200 Police
5C = MC-653F = SXT-1258H = FLH-1200 Shrine
6C = SR-1004F = SS-1759H = FLH-80 Police
1D = LE Sidecar6F = SS-1251K = FLH-80 Shrine
2D = X-907F = XLCR-1000
Year Codes:
H0 = 1970H3 = 1973H6 = 1976H9 = 1979
H1 = 1971H4 = 1974H7 = 1977J0 = 1980
H2 = 1972H5 = 1975H8 = 1978
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 4,126
Likes: 2,116
From: W. MI.
First, welcome to the forum. There are people here that know the VIN stuff by heart and I'm sure they will chime in. (See, hscic knows) Pull the plugs and put some ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil (light oil) in each cylinder and put the plugs back in and let it set for a few days. Use some in each cylinder, not just a couple of drops. Pull the plugs after a few days and roll it over. Put some more oil in and let it set with the plugs back in until you are going to fire it. When you fire it make sure engine oil and plugs are new.
Drain the gas tank, take it off and pull the petcock. (Unless you have it off to drain the tank?) Make sure all the gas is out. Rebuild the carb and replace the gas line. Don't reuse the gas line that's on it now. With the petcock clean put it back in the tank, fill it with white vinegar and let it set for a week or so. Drain and flush with clean vinegar, let dry. Should take care of the rust if it isn't too bad? Works for me. The rest of the fluids need replacing as well. How's the clutch? If you pull the lever does it rebound OK? How are the tires since it sat under a tarp? (Outside?) Brakes? You can check all this other stuff while the rings and tank are soaking. You've got plenty to do. There is more but you can start this way.
Other than letting things soak do one thing at a time. If you are going to do gas, do that to completion then move on. Don't hop around like a fart in a mitten. Write things down on paper so you can keep track of where you are. Need help, ask. Good luck!
Drain the gas tank, take it off and pull the petcock. (Unless you have it off to drain the tank?) Make sure all the gas is out. Rebuild the carb and replace the gas line. Don't reuse the gas line that's on it now. With the petcock clean put it back in the tank, fill it with white vinegar and let it set for a week or so. Drain and flush with clean vinegar, let dry. Should take care of the rust if it isn't too bad? Works for me. The rest of the fluids need replacing as well. How's the clutch? If you pull the lever does it rebound OK? How are the tires since it sat under a tarp? (Outside?) Brakes? You can check all this other stuff while the rings and tank are soaking. You've got plenty to do. There is more but you can start this way.
Other than letting things soak do one thing at a time. If you are going to do gas, do that to completion then move on. Don't hop around like a fart in a mitten. Write things down on paper so you can keep track of where you are. Need help, ask. Good luck!
Last edited by Bass Player; Aug 5, 2019 at 11:52 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 4,890
Likes: 553
From: USA
First, welcome to the forum. There are people here that know the VIN stuff by heart and I'm sure they will chime in. (See, hscic knows) Pull the plugs and put some ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil (light oil) in each cylinder and put the plugs back in and let it set for a few days. Use some in each cylinder, not just a couple of drops. Pull the plugs after a few days and roll it over. Put some more oil in and let it set with the plugs back in until you are going to fire it. When you fire it make sure engine oil and plugs are new.
Drain the gas tank, take it off and pull the petcock. (Unless you have it off to drain the tank?) Make sure all the gas is out. Rebuild the carb and replace the gas line. Don't reuse the gas line that's on it now. With the petcock clean put it back in the tank, fill it with white vinegar and let it set for a week or so. Drain and flush with clean vinegar, let dry. Should take care of the rust if it isn't too bad? Works for me. The rest of the fluids need replacing as well. How's the clutch? If you pull the lever does it rebound OK? How are the tires since it sat under a tarp? (Outside?) Brakes? You can check all this other stuff while the rings and tank are soaking. You've got plenty to do. There is more but you can start this way.
Other than letting things soak do one thing at a time. If you are going to do gas, do that to completion then move on. Don't hop around like a fart in a mitten. Write things down on paper so you can keep track of where you are. Need help, ask. Good luck!
Drain the gas tank, take it off and pull the petcock. (Unless you have it off to drain the tank?) Make sure all the gas is out. Rebuild the carb and replace the gas line. Don't reuse the gas line that's on it now. With the petcock clean put it back in the tank, fill it with white vinegar and let it set for a week or so. Drain and flush with clean vinegar, let dry. Should take care of the rust if it isn't too bad? Works for me. The rest of the fluids need replacing as well. How's the clutch? If you pull the lever does it rebound OK? How are the tires since it sat under a tarp? (Outside?) Brakes? You can check all this other stuff while the rings and tank are soaking. You've got plenty to do. There is more but you can start this way.
Other than letting things soak do one thing at a time. If you are going to do gas, do that to completion then move on. Don't hop around like a fart in a mitten. Write things down on paper so you can keep track of where you are. Need help, ask. Good luck!
OP - post pics of your entire bike....share some history, and let members know your plan...i.e. what you want to do with the bike.
Last edited by hscic; Aug 5, 2019 at 01:00 PM.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: oregon
"LOL Don't hop around like a fart in a mitten....I like that."
Me too! and I won't.
The rust in the tank isn't too heavy so I'll try the vinegar.
The clutch worked so I think it rebounded ok but I'll test it again.
The front brake worked, it held the bike when we had to change the come-a-long length.
The rear brake MC, I think needs rebuilt.
I intended to put some oil in the cylinders, and I like Marvel Mystery too. but I don't have a way to roll it over until I get a battery. It has a buddy floor board where the kick starter would be, and believe that would not allow for travel. I think that is why it's missing.
The bike, I was told has never been tipped over and I see no damage except a small ding on the front fender rail. I came close when the trailer broke.
The numbers match all three ways, I checked that before I handed over the money.
I still don't understand the difference between FL and FLH. I have looked at pictures of both but see no difference. I read that the FLH had a higher comp motor, which I thought would be for carrying the extra weight of a full fairing and baggage, but I don't think that is the case. Google doesn't know either.
Thanks
Me too! and I won't.
The rust in the tank isn't too heavy so I'll try the vinegar.
The clutch worked so I think it rebounded ok but I'll test it again.
The front brake worked, it held the bike when we had to change the come-a-long length.
The rear brake MC, I think needs rebuilt.
I intended to put some oil in the cylinders, and I like Marvel Mystery too. but I don't have a way to roll it over until I get a battery. It has a buddy floor board where the kick starter would be, and believe that would not allow for travel. I think that is why it's missing.
The bike, I was told has never been tipped over and I see no damage except a small ding on the front fender rail. I came close when the trailer broke.
The numbers match all three ways, I checked that before I handed over the money.
I still don't understand the difference between FL and FLH. I have looked at pictures of both but see no difference. I read that the FLH had a higher comp motor, which I thought would be for carrying the extra weight of a full fairing and baggage, but I don't think that is the case. Google doesn't know either.
Thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
ask about everything - no kidding why wing it and get stuff that is sub par - you found the right place to do this - stay on point but the factory parts and service books as the correct nomenclature is extremely important - keeps everyone knowing what your talking about - slang will get you lost and doing the wrong things
NOW first on the list is pictures - take it out of the trailer photo it - as the guys want day one then as you move along it becomes incentive to see progress and updated pictures
you may or may not think that is what ever - but you will get lots of help because what you don't see others will see in the pictures = and have you fix things that you had no idea was an issue - many own what you have in years on both sides of it and vast experience in the correct fixes -
whats the plan - I hope its not making it your own ( big box of china chrome ) and leaving a period correct machine as it was intended - but it is yours
NOW first on the list is pictures - take it out of the trailer photo it - as the guys want day one then as you move along it becomes incentive to see progress and updated pictures
you may or may not think that is what ever - but you will get lots of help because what you don't see others will see in the pictures = and have you fix things that you had no idea was an issue - many own what you have in years on both sides of it and vast experience in the correct fixes -
whats the plan - I hope its not making it your own ( big box of china chrome ) and leaving a period correct machine as it was intended - but it is yours
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 419
From: Vermont
Welcome....you got good advise. Get pixs....listen to most of these guys...this part of the forums is probably the informative you will find with a touch of ball busting.... Take your time and get your service manual first like was said...dont go loosing any of the factory stuff if you happen to take stuff off. OEM stuff even if you have to restore it is better the china f in crap.....
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: oregon
My intentions for the bike are to keep it original. It does gave some chrome problems that I would re-chrome if they look too bad.
The one thing that confuses me is the FL/FLH thing. Is it only engine compression? Originally I read that the H was for hydraulic dampening, in 1970 that probably changed.
I need to figure out how to get it out of the high trailer(m101) and then when it's out how many people it will take to push it up up to my garage. I live where nothing is flat. Trying to push it up on the trailer that broke, was not possible, we resorted to using a big ratchet strap to pull it up. Pictures will have to wait until I get it out of the trailer.
Greg
The one thing that confuses me is the FL/FLH thing. Is it only engine compression? Originally I read that the H was for hydraulic dampening, in 1970 that probably changed.
I need to figure out how to get it out of the high trailer(m101) and then when it's out how many people it will take to push it up up to my garage. I live where nothing is flat. Trying to push it up on the trailer that broke, was not possible, we resorted to using a big ratchet strap to pull it up. Pictures will have to wait until I get it out of the trailer.
Greg
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
FL is 7 to 1 compression and no one sells them any more - FLH is 8 1/2 to 1 stock and keep it that way - if you don't have endless money and nothing else to do then work on it
