Try to keep it short so I can get to the question.

Buddy owns a 76 custom FLH. When he got it wiring was completely FUBAR (among a great many other things). I replaced all wiring and switches and once we got the bike back together (it was down to the frame) it was running like a champ.

Came with a Dyna S iginition system.

Few months back he was getting a coil problem. (Bike had been running fine for months.) Pulled it and it had a nice crack in it. Suggested he replace it (which he did) but he also decidedhe wanted to replace the spark plugs wires as well as put in a new Dyna S into it (don't ask why please). He did not keep the original components he pulled out.

Did the install for him, timed it with a light and then it would not run right....won't pull under a lightr, wants to crap out, you are forced to pull in the clutch to keep it running.

He has been insistent it must be something other the an ignition system issue. No manifold leaks, no stator voltage regulator problem (new Cycle Electric comnponents), no loose wires. He even decided to change the jets on the S&S carb thinking it was a fuel problem (it's not cuz it is still doing the same thing once the engine warms up and he tries to take it on the road).

So.......tomorrow, instead of watching my 9ers hopefully beating the Saints, I am headed to his house to assess the problem. (He's good friend though young but will carry on the HD tradition.)

Taking my volt/ohm meter and test light. Taking a good set of spark plug wires and another coil as well. Figure to do one step at a time, check timing (again), wires, coil (replace one at atime) and then test module.

If those check out the only thing left are the advance weights. Is there a test for the assmbly? Don't see anything in the service manual.

Still believe it is an issue with the wires, coil or module but I got to thinking that maybe the advance weight assembly might have taken a dump since the install of the new components.

It's a nice custom that he built up and hez added some more custom stuff since these pics were taken at the start of Summer.

 

Where did the advance assembly come from?? Not being Shitty... but by experience most Chiwanese Advance mechanisms are worse than an OE Broken one..
Symptoms sound for all the world to me like a bad mechanical advance...
The Dyna-S will allow the engine to run ...even half assed well...when considerably out of time...excepting timing on the wrong Cylinder..... Don't laugh...it happens alot!!!!

Good luck...and remember to most younger folks..."New" is Good... to me new is usually ****... I want "Tested"

 

couple of things to note -- is it a real dyna - it might look like a real one but is it - I had one last week that was not and the trigger magnet rear cylinder is in the wrong spot yea try and find that - we did because I heat temped the exhaust then checked both flywheel timing marks -- not saying its this BUT you don't have the old stuff

coil ohms - 5 is what they call for - a 3 ohm will over heat the unit causing it to kick in and out - and then burn out all together

it also wants carbon plus wires - 76 would be points and correct is steel / copper core wires - dyna is and will get feed back from steel or copper plug wires

and the advance unit is ALWAYS suspect - the bearing ones are way better then the steel on steel pin

 

The advance weights are original to the bike. May have to replace.

Racepres I set up the timing and I can assure you I did it correctly. That said I still intent to re-check.

John the coil is 5 ohm. Going to pull the plug wires off my 78-1/2 FXE to test and ensure the wires are correct.

 

Never seen any last even a couple years...if you use them...

 

and the advance unit is ALWAYS suspect - the bearing ones are way better then the steel on steel pin .... Yep and I've seen more than a few frozen from rust too

 

Make sure it's a dual fire or single fire Dyna S and that he has the appropriate ohm coil to go with the unit. Secondly I bet he static timed it on TDC instead of the advance mark

 

wow guys I tried using a 5 ohm coil it ran awhile then it ran on one cylinder then I had the same symptoms you had hey man until you get a three ohm coil in that bike it won't run right, if you think its ignition get the hi 4 may cost a little but worth it no detonation or backfire

 

I realize your trying to be helpful - but a dyna ignition as well as original equipment points and the first shovel Prestolite ignition has to use a 5 ohm coil

digital ignitions after that was all 3 ohm - now and I could care les what they do - and now its different again

 

hey john that 5 ohm coil was for the kick start and points as I remember