Done!!!
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Joined: Jan 2016
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From: North Carolina
Panz4ver, that’s how I got it out. John, before I tore it down for the paint job, I was able to torque everything down with no issues. Did not remove the axle from the wheel, so the spacers are still in the same place. I’ll try it again. Book says to torque the cap nuts first or should I torque the axle nut first?
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From: la la land jerzey
No think about this - the axle and its spacers / speedo drive gear / hub cap app bottom when torqued - then we set the tube and leg straight R/S as it will wear funny if not
lower leg the brake side is set to the caliper center using factory spacers - the right side is set off the drift from the trees to the inside just a bit - so the tubes have the same center we use level and check that - so the axle torque is done before the bottom cap is tightened as it might the leg want to go to the right just a bit - usually
lower leg the brake side is set to the caliper center using factory spacers - the right side is set off the drift from the trees to the inside just a bit - so the tubes have the same center we use level and check that - so the axle torque is done before the bottom cap is tightened as it might the leg want to go to the right just a bit - usually
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Decatur, Alabama
So you found a genuine HD OEM replacement part and not one at the auto parts store?
Bike looks fantastic.
carl
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From: North Carolina
The flasher switch was just an example on how long it can take to find some parts. Hate to say it, but the toggle switch for the running lights came from a parts store. Took that long to find the correct OEM switch. Works perfectly even though it was used. Just had to clean up the terminals.
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From: North Carolina
Think I found the reason why I could never get my Super E dialed in. Had bought true dual exhaust pipes a few years ago and discovered the rear pipe flange wasn't welded properly, result massive exhaust leak. Discovered they were made in Pakistan. Just got a set of Paughco true duals and they seem to seal properly. I'm using studs instead of bolts, so do I need thread locker on them or just snug them up? Thanks.
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Joined: Oct 2019
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From: UK
Perhaps someone can enlighten me😂
I’ve never really got the idea of studs, loctite will burn off so The Stud thread is still in the ali head that expands and contracts differently allowing it to come lose. I can see that using long ‘grub’ screws can help, so you can hold the stud with a hex key while you tighten the nuts so you’re not adding any Oven tightening stress to the head thread.
seems to me that as long as the threads are ok, they are more than capable of tightening enough To seal the gaskets, and it’s the coming loose and then wearing away the threads that’s the problem.
i’ve helicoiled the heads to get a longer thread and remove the thread stress from the ali., use anti seize so the bolts don’t seize into the head and use the bolts that have the groove for a e-clip and the triangular washer so the bolt can’t turn.
This has always worked for me on several bike.
jon
I’ve never really got the idea of studs, loctite will burn off so The Stud thread is still in the ali head that expands and contracts differently allowing it to come lose. I can see that using long ‘grub’ screws can help, so you can hold the stud with a hex key while you tighten the nuts so you’re not adding any Oven tightening stress to the head thread.
seems to me that as long as the threads are ok, they are more than capable of tightening enough To seal the gaskets, and it’s the coming loose and then wearing away the threads that’s the problem.
i’ve helicoiled the heads to get a longer thread and remove the thread stress from the ali., use anti seize so the bolts don’t seize into the head and use the bolts that have the groove for a e-clip and the triangular washer so the bolt can’t turn.
This has always worked for me on several bike.
jon