When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Worst case ontario you could sacrifice the nut by VERY carefully grinding one flat way until you just about expose the peaks of the tread on the crank, then hit it with the impact the nut should fracture there and release... I would be leery of putting so much torque on the crank unless you can hold it by the pulley/sprocket. I guess I got lucky in that mine came off with just a couple raps of a cheap 3/4 impact...
I cant visualize how you mean to grind, but this sounds like trouble to me. I dont think Id be comfortable knowing how far to grind.
I was always told, long before the internet, to NEVER use an Impact on the compensator nut for two reasons. Number one you may knock the Rotor magnets off, and number two, you may spin the shaft in the Crank Wheel on that side. I do not know if that is fact, but I have nver in 40 years used an Impact on the Compensator nut.
yes, an impact can knock stuff loose if over done, theoretically the fast sharp impacts of the electric impact doesnt hammer as badly as an air tool.
Using a 4 or 6 foot breaker bar with a cheater and a 400lb gorilla pulling on the end of a crankshaft pin of a bolt together crankshaft while holding the pistons to keep from turning might not do much for the internals and support system for the engines rotating features.
In my 40 years of using both methods, i have found the electric impact to be less damaging (expensive).
But hey, ever skirt needs a different stength of wind to reach the desired elevation.
I cant visualize how you mean to grind, but this sounds like trouble to me. I dont think Id be comfortable knowing how far to grind.
Basically grind off an entire flat of the nuts hex working the whole flat slowly towards the threads until there is a thin spot but without grinding through to the threads themselves. As I said it would be my last resort and yes, there is potential to cause damage especially if you're not experienced with this sort of grinding. Having 25+ years experience as a machinist/millwright I would do it if i had too, I would probably use a small 2" or so cut-off wheel in a die grinder to get in there.
The breaker bar steady torque is what i would be concerned about, thats a lot of stress on a multi piece crank...
Ask around the bunch you ride with and some one bought one 18 volt Milwaukee 1/2 inch - its quick work for that gun i bought 3 just in case we brake 2 or them
Basically grind off an entire flat of the nuts hex working the whole flat slowly towards the threads until there is a thin spot but without grinding through to the threads themselves. As I said it would be my last resort and yes, there is potential to cause damage especially if you're not experienced with this sort of grinding. ...
When you grind, go slowly near the end. The heat will make a blue line appear at the thin spot. That's when you stop grinding.
Get the right gun and stop re inventing the wheel - some of that could work but you risk not having experience in this and the damage that come with that
You may be putting on to much heat and expanding everything.
^^^^^^^^ This! The steel parts will expand with heat, while brass will not. So, since the brass washer got dished inward and part of it got locked into a couple of threads, the net effect is about the same as two jamnuts except one of the "jamnuts" is immovable. A good impact wrench with a heavy duty deep socket in good condition should remove it. Heat should never be involved here. ..... After what TwiZted said about his amazon recommendation using the short 6 point impact socket, I will revise my deep socket recommendation due to the side torque issue.
Last edited by hvacgaspiping; Aug 22, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
A breaker wont do it. You need shock like from a very Heavy Duty impact wrench. Just heat it enough to melt locktite , it doesnt take much.
Originally Posted by oldbuck
Maybe the socket can't get a good bite because of the washer. I would try a 3ft pipe wrench and smack it with a long sledge hammer. Of course I have friends who are plumbers who work industrial and have large wrenches. Good luck!
Please don`t recommend that. A large pipe wrench won`t get close enough access to get around the nut, plus all it would do it chew the **** out of the nut and make any correct tool impossible to work properly. Go the impact removal route with the correct size of a socket heavy duty impact wrench.
Maybe huge vice grips, with a pipe on the handle, and a sledge hammer to whack it. Maybe some PB blaster too, if there is any corrosion.
Originally Posted by Joe12RK
This is what it took to get mine loose - someone used red loctite! That's a 5 or 6 foot length of pipe! I am replacing the pistons, rods and bearings so not worried about damage there.
Originally Posted by SparkyD
First time I had to take mine off it took 4 days:
Sprayed with breakfree it the morning before using impact gun for several minutes. Sprayed again and went to work. Got home and put the impact on again for a while. Hit of breakfree before bed.
Did this 4 days in a row, on the 5th morning it came off. A practice in patience.
That looks like an old SK 1/2" drive ratchet like the one which was passed down to me by my grandfather back when I was a teenager in the `50s. They don`t make `em like that anymore. I bent a 6' cheater that was cut from a piece of 1 1/4" steel electrical conduit when in a similar situation. It got the nut loose though and didn`t break my ratchet....... `Still don`t recommend it though... Go impact.
This combo is 1100 foot pounds off and a snap on socket TW481 has done a thousand of them and the elector is is stronger then that snap on mg725 witH 175 POUNDS air pressure - i am done tried to help - the sprocket shaft is what we see when they dont listen
Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Becomes a Dark, Decepticon-Inspired Custom
Slideshow: Killer Custom's latest build relies on styling changes rather than performance upgrades, giving the cruiser an entirely different personality.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.