Shutting off Randomly
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 125
Likes: 10
From: Connecticut
Shutting off Randomly
Majority of the bike is a 1971 to 1977ish.
Has a Dual Fire, Dyna S ignition installed.
Ok the other day as I was coming home from work the bike just died while getting off the highway. It wouldn't start back up for a few minutes finally it did, then stalled a few more times then finally stayed running.
So when things cooled down I tore into the bike because I thought I may have blown it up again, because it didn't sound right sounded like I had lost a cylinder.
I have noticed over the last few rides it sounds weird or has poor throttle response and feels weak. I changed my plugs, Found that my front cylinder Push Rods were probably over tightened So I am going to hope that was the reason the front cylinder looks like it did.
Went out for a ride and It shut down again on my way home.
If the Battery is the only thing wrong and lets say it had a dead cell. Would the bike continue to run if it had points in it opposed to the Dyna-S?
I ask this because I have the complete Points ignition in the tool box drawer and can swamp it over relatively easy. Assuming this would be the easiest way to rule out the Electronic Ignition.
Has a Dual Fire, Dyna S ignition installed.
Ok the other day as I was coming home from work the bike just died while getting off the highway. It wouldn't start back up for a few minutes finally it did, then stalled a few more times then finally stayed running.
So when things cooled down I tore into the bike because I thought I may have blown it up again, because it didn't sound right sounded like I had lost a cylinder.
- I checked my plugs, Front cylinder looked horrible compared to the rear and the cylinder wall on the front is sort of shiny. So fear of having blown the motor again sunk in. Motor currently has 2000 miles on the rebuild.
- Compression cold was 107 on the front and 114 on the rear. So that's good enough for it to run. I moved on to checking other components and dumb stuff.
- I was checking for the gross and obvious such as loose or broken wires.
- I found that my battery is bad it leaks from somewhere, not the overflow, and is probably on its last leg. But it has 12 volts so I didn't want to Blame everything on the battery
I have noticed over the last few rides it sounds weird or has poor throttle response and feels weak. I changed my plugs, Found that my front cylinder Push Rods were probably over tightened So I am going to hope that was the reason the front cylinder looks like it did.
Went out for a ride and It shut down again on my way home.
- When it shuts down it seems like it is losing ignition.
- Dash stays lit, head lamp, Turn signals, and Brake light all illuminate or stay lit. Even when it shuts down.
If the Battery is the only thing wrong and lets say it had a dead cell. Would the bike continue to run if it had points in it opposed to the Dyna-S?
I ask this because I have the complete Points ignition in the tool box drawer and can swamp it over relatively easy. Assuming this would be the easiest way to rule out the Electronic Ignition.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 605
Likes: 441
From: BRIGHTON, ENGLAND
i'd fit points for a start, never trusted electronic whereas you can always fix points at the road side,
check for the gas cap vent being blocked causing the tank to vaccum lock stopping fuel getting to the carb, if it does it again, remove the gas cap & listen for air rushing in,
get the battery checked for dead cells,
clean the carb, might be something blocking the jets occasionally.
check for the gas cap vent being blocked causing the tank to vaccum lock stopping fuel getting to the carb, if it does it again, remove the gas cap & listen for air rushing in,
get the battery checked for dead cells,
clean the carb, might be something blocking the jets occasionally.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 125
Likes: 10
From: Connecticut
i'd fit points for a start, never trusted electronic whereas you can always fix points at the road side,
check for the gas cap vent being blocked causing the tank to vaccum lock stopping fuel getting to the carb, if it does it again, remove the gas cap & listen for air rushing in,
get the battery checked for dead cells,
clean the carb, might be something blocking the jets occasionally.
check for the gas cap vent being blocked causing the tank to vaccum lock stopping fuel getting to the carb, if it does it again, remove the gas cap & listen for air rushing in,
get the battery checked for dead cells,
clean the carb, might be something blocking the jets occasionally.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,125
Likes: 51,438
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
In order,
Put an AGM battery in not another wet type. The old wet batteries will get weird once they dry cell on you a few times.
Clean all the battery cable connections, the frame ground in particular just because.
Look for any bare wires or loose or crudded up connections.
If it has a ignition circuit breaker replace it, they are cheap.
Change the plugs.
Check the petcock to insure it's flowing good, tank screen will plug up.
Do an intake leak check when you get it started, squirt a little brake clean around the clamps, you'll know if they are bad.
If you have or can get another 5 ohm coil throw it on.
At this point if it still keeps dropping out on you now play with the ignition and checking the advance unit behind the plate. Dyna S iggy's are a either they work or they don't kinda deal, they don't drop then come back.
Do all the trouble shooting checks before tearing into things or changing stuff at random.
Put an AGM battery in not another wet type. The old wet batteries will get weird once they dry cell on you a few times.
Clean all the battery cable connections, the frame ground in particular just because.
Look for any bare wires or loose or crudded up connections.
If it has a ignition circuit breaker replace it, they are cheap.
Change the plugs.
Check the petcock to insure it's flowing good, tank screen will plug up.
Do an intake leak check when you get it started, squirt a little brake clean around the clamps, you'll know if they are bad.
If you have or can get another 5 ohm coil throw it on.
At this point if it still keeps dropping out on you now play with the ignition and checking the advance unit behind the plate. Dyna S iggy's are a either they work or they don't kinda deal, they don't drop then come back.
Do all the trouble shooting checks before tearing into things or changing stuff at random.
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Joined: May 2018
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From: australia
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From: CT/FL
While all this is good, the OP said it was a sudden cut-off not stumbling and dying. That is ignition not fuel. I say it's a coil going bad, or the wrong ohms for the ignition causing it to overheat. Happened to me on two different bikes when I first got them.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,285
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From: Eastern NC
[QUOTE=Joe12RK;20808341]While all this is good, the OP said it was a sudden cut-off not stumbling and dying. That is ignition not fuel. I say it's a coil going bad, or the wrong ohms for the ignition causing it to overheat. Happened to me on two different bikes when I first got them.[/QUO
I had the same thing happen, wasn't coil but turned out to be ignition pick up in nose cone, (original V fire ignition with black brain box under side cover). It didn't look melted but as it heated up it would shut down the bike.
Dyna 2000i sovled all my problems, Ultima 53-644 same thing prob cheaper today.
I replaced coil and suppression wires at the same time to have confidence in the bikes reliability since I had no idea how old these parts were.
Someone mentioned going back to points and you would also need an advance unit.
I had the same thing happen, wasn't coil but turned out to be ignition pick up in nose cone, (original V fire ignition with black brain box under side cover). It didn't look melted but as it heated up it would shut down the bike.
Dyna 2000i sovled all my problems, Ultima 53-644 same thing prob cheaper today.
I replaced coil and suppression wires at the same time to have confidence in the bikes reliability since I had no idea how old these parts were.
Someone mentioned going back to points and you would also need an advance unit.
Last edited by Redrodyankneck; Sep 6, 2022 at 03:55 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 125
Likes: 10
From: Connecticut
Thanks for all the input guys Coil Ohms out at 5. and If I remember correctly I think 24K on the Plug side of the coil. Sorry its been busy, I just got home from being on the road for work.
Advance unit is in fine shape I recently replaced that.
I am going to order a AGM battery, Anything better than others?
Tank and Fuel supply is fine I was not concerned with that.
Before I left for work I Checked the coil, Charged the battery, and replaced the plugs.
I also checked the timing it was close enough.
Went for about a 50-60 mile ride with a few stops. Everything seemed fine and it didn't shut down on me anywhere. But it seemed to run worse and worse I just pulled the plugs.
The front Plug looks Fouled already coated in oily crud. The rear plug looks new to Lean/Hot but fine for that little amount of miles.
I plan to pull the carb in the morning to get a look at my intake valve on the front cylinder.
Thanks for the input guys any thing else you can think of for me to check when I pull the carb.
Advance unit is in fine shape I recently replaced that.
I am going to order a AGM battery, Anything better than others?
Tank and Fuel supply is fine I was not concerned with that.
Before I left for work I Checked the coil, Charged the battery, and replaced the plugs.
I also checked the timing it was close enough.
Went for about a 50-60 mile ride with a few stops. Everything seemed fine and it didn't shut down on me anywhere. But it seemed to run worse and worse I just pulled the plugs.
The front Plug looks Fouled already coated in oily crud. The rear plug looks new to Lean/Hot but fine for that little amount of miles.
I plan to pull the carb in the morning to get a look at my intake valve on the front cylinder.
Thanks for the input guys any thing else you can think of for me to check when I pull the carb.