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Long story short, had a leaky rear rocker box. Pulled the head, replaced the gasket.
Been trying for hours to get the head back on. I don't think it's possible without nicking the mating surface on the head. Already looks like I may have mushed it down a bit. Going to see about getting it braised.
Looks like I'm pulling this motor. Not where I wanted this bike to be at the beginning of riding season.
I've pulled this motor before, about 10 years ago. Can't remember for the life of me if it's possible to pull it without completely taking the primary out.
I have an old manual for this thing...I think it's in storage. I'm going to go check tomorrow, but I haven't seen in since the last time I did this. Until I find my manual, or a new one comes in, I'd like to keep wrenching on this thing. Figured I'd ask the experts...anyone know if the engine can come out without complete primary removal? If memory serves you can leave the inner primary and just pull the front sprocket, chain, and clutch basket...
Last edited by BrokenGQ; Apr 21, 2023 at 11:57 PM.
Make sure the piston isn't at TDC, any crown showing they don't want to go back on. And yes you can yank one without dropping the primary, better to remove it to get at other things while in there.
Make sure the piston isn't at TDC, any crown showing they don't want to go back on. And yes you can yank one without dropping the primary, better to remove it to get at other things while in there.
Piston isn't at TDC. I think the issue is the aftermarket frame.
This entire bike was overhauled about 10 years ago between myself and a good friend, but since then has maybe had 1,500 miles put on it. I plan on inspecting everything as I take it apart, but if I don't see any cause for pulling the whole primary I'm not going to go through the trouble.
Well then it's time to pull mount bolts and slide it out a hair then. I have " massaged" an aftermarket frame or two due to very tight fits or outright rubbing on the rear rocker box before. Should be at least an 1/8" clearance as it will swell when at a running temps.
Well then it's time to pull mount bolts and slide it out a hair then. I have " massaged" an aftermarket frame or two due to very tight fits or outright rubbing on the rear rocker box before. Should be at least an 1/8" clearance as it will swell when at a running temps.
You think I can pull the lower mount bolts and slide the engine enough to get the heads on, without doing anything to the primary? Never tried it that way.
In regards to the frame "massage"...yeah. Looks like someone did that here. 1/8" at least. Just not enough to actually get the head back on. I managed to get it off without damaging it, but back on....well I tried for 5 hours last night.
It came out, it'll go back in, Frustration will eat you alive and you don't see things straight. Whatever it is it won't take much to pop back in.
Problem is, I think I've mess up the mating surface on the head trying to get it back in. The head is so soft compared to the lip on the cylinder. The cylinder will win every time. There are 3 little nicks in the head right where the cylinder seats in, and it's kinda mushed down. I think I'll get it braised to be safe, but I don't want to damage it again after getting it braised. That's why the engine needs to come out. Or move, at least.
I kinda like the idea of trying to pull the lower mount bolts and see if I can get it to slide over some. Might need to remove the front primary sprocket as well. But if I can manage it, it'll save quite a bit of work.
i ran into same deal on 80flh, matchin frame n motor
also worryed bout head's gasket surface
as twizted said, came out, should go back in...
2 days of wtf???
finally filed lil on rockerbox, above shaft, tween nuts, went in as it should
i'll blame gasket thickness n tq to proper spec, only took few file strokes
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