Identifying charging system
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,376
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
The ones on the left are what was O.E.M. from mid 1970's to somewhere in the early 1980's. My 1984 O.E.M. is the opposite. That gives you the era. You don't need super high amperage. Cycle Electric is my go to brand. I hear rotors are pretty hard to find across the board. I put a used Cycle Electric Regulator / Rectifier and Stator from a 22 amp system (from my 1984) along with a stock rotor (1977) from a 16 amp system and it has worked just fine. As long as the Regulator and stator plugs match up is what you want more than anything; a 1980 FLH doesn't need more than 22 amps.
Isn't always about just enough for what you need.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,376
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
What happens with the older 2 pin is connection at the case gets lose and arcs burning out the socket or the wires off the stator hardened up, chip and ground out. These usually take the regulator out. Most common issues I've dealt with on the old girls.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 9
From: Houston , Tx.
Just noticed something weird when looking at the rotor . There is a thick heavy washer as well as a thin washer on the sprocket side toward the nut. That doesn't seem right to me . It has been converted to belt drive closed primary.Gonna check the case for rub marks as well as the inside lip of the rotor.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 653
From: Potter County, PA
They sell or you can make a wire bent that uses one of the Primary bolts to make a hold -in for the plug. I too have burnt a few a pins off and fried regulators. Not a problem with new Cycle Electric stuff for sure, but if you can't find a complete Cycle Electric System, just use your old rotor and buy a 22 amp Cycle Electric Stator and Regulator / Rectifier if yours is bad. I don't think there is an easy way to test a Harley Regulator / Rectifier. The Battery and Stator can be tested and you can test the Stator and Regulator together. It has to be running. It should put out like 1,000 volts AC; the exact AC voltage is in the manual. If they all test good it is the Regulator / Rectifier that is bad is how we do it around here.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,565
Likes: 3,318
From: Cental, MI
Just noticed something weird when looking at the rotor . There is a thick heavy washer as well as a thin washer on the sprocket side toward the nut. That doesn't seem right to me . It has been converted to belt drive closed primary.Gonna check the case for rub marks as well as the inside lip of the rotor.
Edit; with a Belt...that alignment is More critical... align Carefully and Avoid belt problems down the road!!
I spend an inordinate amount of time, Aligning Belts, then close 'em up, and never see 'em again!!!!
Last edited by Racepres; May 3, 2023 at 08:40 AM.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 38
Likes: 9
From: Houston , Tx.
O.K., that is making sense. Thick washer for thrust , thin washer for shim. Do I need to be checking the thickness of the rotor flange at the splined motor shaft? If so am I looking for a specific thickness? Bike was worked on at Daytona HD back in the 90's. Looks like sub par work and parts to me. Pulled off HD primary and replaced with CCI crap. Found an HD inner in my stash. The outer CCI cover bolts up but doesn't match the outline of the HD inner very well. Gonna replace motor sprocket seal while I have it torn down. The trans. main shaft seal is also seeping , so I will need to see if I can replace it with out the special ($$$$) tools. My brother is a rider not a wrench , and the work looked good to him. So here we go guys. Gonna rely on my experience from years ago and ask questions as needed here. Most of my work was done on generator style scooters back in the day. Thanx again for the help guys. Real happy with the forum so far.I need to get back to the bike and get off the computer , LOL.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,344
Likes: 56,895
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
They sell or you can make a wire bent that uses one of the Primary bolts to make a hold -in for the plug. I too have burnt a few a pins off and fried regulators. Not a problem with new Cycle Electric stuff for sure, but if you can't find a complete Cycle Electric System, just use your old rotor and buy a 22 amp Cycle Electric Stator and Regulator / Rectifier if yours is bad. I don't think there is an easy way to test a Harley Regulator / Rectifier. The Battery and Stator can be tested and you can test the Stator and Regulator together. It has to be running. It should put out like 1,000 volts AC; the exact AC voltage is in the manual. If they all test good it is the Regulator / Rectifier that is bad is how we do it around here.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...h=640&dpr=1.24