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I can't edit my post above. Man did I goof it!!! You can test the Stator and Rotor together for AC Voltage while running, NOT the Stator and Regulator! Sorry for the confusion I caused!
No problem , I figured as much. Looking around and found Lowbrow Customs has the CE-8188 Stator for $85.19 and the CE-204 Regulator for $133.59. Anybody ever deal with them?
If your 22 amp system is working and the pins/sockets of the connectors are good, run it. Like Twiz suggested, if you're determined to change to brand new, go with 32 amp system. Parts are direct bolt-on replacement and price difference is negligible. AND, the 32 amp stator/regulator will work just fine with the 22 amp rotor. They went from 22 to 32 amp in '89 with exception of cop bikes were 32 amp in late '88. The factory rotors were the same.
Compufire (Pertronix), Cycle Electric or HD OEM are the only quality, dependable parts I'd ever trust for any charging. (with exception of OEM 22 amp stuff. I went thru 3 stators and 6 regs till I wised up and went 32 amp) Yes, all the parts are still available from MoCo.
Bike not running yet , been sitting since the mid to late 90's. Want to do it right the first time , so 32 amp it is! I think the charging system is a Chrome Specialties unit from all the B.S. that my brother had with it.Hoping the rotor will work with the Cycle Electric stator. I figure if it is an unknown , rebuild it or replace it with known good parts. From what I figured from their website I am gonna need a CE-8999 stator ( Lowbrow $91.07) , shim kit CE-8120 ($24.39) , and regulator CE-320 ($133.66) Sound right to You guys? Being limited on funds to say the least , I don't mind if it is the right **** to do it right. I really appreciate You guys patience and input as I get back into the swing of things.Slowly but surely it is starting to come back to me as I read the old manuals, check out the forum, and do the clean up on the old girl. No time frame at this point as it is one of My retirement projects. Just itching to get in the wind ( HAVEN'T RIDDEN HER SINCE 1992) and get on to the 49 Pan restoration..Hate doing **** twice if You know what I mean. BTW My shoulders to My fingers are about shot from all the scrubbing and sanding but she is starting to look pretty good slowly but surely!!! And I still have to polish her up! LMFAO
Had to go look, but the part numbers are correct. You do not need the shim kit as you'll be using the current rotor.
But I would like to see the rotor to know what you have. I know, photos on here a sore subject to you. So I'll ask - is it smooth around the spline center hole area or does it have a reinforced area with 3 puller holes? Doesn't matter, just curious.
Smooth and flat at splined area of flange of rotor to motor shaft,Do I need to worry about flange thickness?
No. I was just curious whether it had a pre - '80/'81 rotor. They were especially bad for mid year changes back then and the rotor changed in '80 or '81 anyway. Just replace the stator and go with it and you should be fine on that part.
And I agree with Racepres, making sure the pulley alignment is correct from the get-go will save (or eliminate) a lot of grief down the road. that goes for chain or belt primary. Some of the other guys can help much more than I can on the belt primary. I've never set one up, just worked around a few (clutch / stator / etc) that were already right.
Duly noted guys, thanx again for all your help everyone! Gonna pull the trigger on the 32 amp stator & regulator tomorrow. I will let You know the results! Hopefully I can figure out the pic posting before long!
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