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I have a 73 or so FL front end that I pulled apart many years ago - I am thinking of using it on a shovel hardtail frame (Jammer) and I cant remember a few bits and pieces about these units - there are bushings in the sliders - can these be easily replaced? the shock piston setup looks like it has a lot of parts - do these need to be rebuilt or checked - there is a metal bushing in the slider at the bottom - it uses paper seals - do we put sealant on these - really seems like a over-engineered setup - finally - I cant find the bottom nut that secures the piston tube to the slider - is this just a nut - does it use a copper washer? I also have the nacelle and the trees - was thinking it might be smarter to sell this to someone tat is restoring an FL - my build is a chop and dont need OEM stuff to make it a rider
Pressed in bushing in the top of the leg, need to be reamed to size after. Manual has a page on it, think even clymers has it, quick exploded view for what goes where in what order.
So those are late 1948-early 1977 tubes. Should have Made in USA on the lower wheel side of the sliders. If they have Showa, then they are late 1977 on and use different internals and are not servicable although I'vee seen bushing that have been made to repair those.
There are upper and lower bushings in each slider on the early USA made sliders. They can be replaced, but it's not easy, even if you have the correct tools. There is a special tool from HD that will remove the bushings, and install them at the proper depth. If you drive them in too far, you may never get them out again as the collet on the tool needs to grab the bushing on the bottom and of driven too far there isn't room for the tool. You could likely cut them out but that risk damaging the tube.
So mic the existing bushings and tubes to see how much clearance you have. I've never found an acrtual official clearance spec in the manual, but I believe you need .002-.003 for good dampening and rebound. If much more than that you can either replace the bushings and size them correctly, or try using a higher viscosity fork oil. And if you end up having to buy new tubes, be careful of the many off brands as many manufacturers will not tell you the actaul measurement of the tubes they sell, only that they are 41 mm which ia 1.614. But the tubes were originally 1 5/8, which is 1.625.
From what I can see, the damper parts in the bag look good. If they are OEM, use them as most of the aftermarket ones are not good quality.
The setup is OEM with the two bushings - did you use any sealant on those thin paper gaskets at the base of the slider leg? They are thin and would seem to benefit from some gasgacinch or similar sealant - also - what type of nut did you use on the bottom to anchor the piston rod to the leg bottom - I assume just a standard nut and copper washer - in my photo - you will also see bumper springs that go under the piston - are these used? are they stock - this stuff was on a chopper - I had Franks shorten the tubes to stock for me - I dont see those short springs in the diagrams so maybe they are not stock or necessary
Defiantly put something on that gasket, I used silicon or hylomar, something easily removable. If memory serves thats an allen bolt in from the bottom of the leg not a nut, threads into the lower damper tube with the cup on the tube. Those springs are used with the stripped wide glide front like the FXWG, heavier FL didn't use them. Damper Assembly is universal, they come with in case.
I've never used sealer on the paper gaskets and haven't had a problem so far. I do put some oil on them an hour or so to swell and soften them up before installing things. It's always worked for me. I do double seal the tube seals though.
Also, don't use James seat kits. The seals that come in the kit are too thick and if you install two, there isn't enough room for the felt packing.
I've sent three sets of tubes to Bills in PA for new upper/lower bushings. His shop does excellent work. I believe Tedd's (V-Twin) also does them as well.
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70's front end help
