With the 1976 FLH I'm working on, I've aligned the rear wheel from multiple places on the frame and am comfortable it is correct. Wheel and tire look ok with respect to the frame seat post, but it isn't exactly centered between the tab where the fender struts attach. It's almost 3/8 to the left, so it needs to be moved almost 3./16 to the right to center it. I've checked this measurement with two different swingarms and am getting very similar measurements.

The frame engine mount and trans plate are within .1 degrees (usng a digital angle finder) and the swing arm is within .2 degrees of being on the same plane. And the measurements between these locations all check out based on specs form the HD manual.

I've done many of these over the years and none have been centered. Much less centered with the rear fender. The only way I see that is can be changed is th remove metal from the rear brake caliper bracket and then use a 3/16 wider spacer on the left. The important thing is that it's centered with the frame / front wheel. I've measured the everything frame alignment based on the specs from the manual. Everything looks good, although I realize that isn't the same as having it on a frame machine.

I've measured the front wheel to frame alignment to be sure other measurements are correct, including measuring the angle of the front and rear brake rotors. They both measure the same, which suggest the neck and swingarm are aligned on the plane. The only thing I haven't done is the string test between the wheels, which is done correctly can be useful.

Is this a non issue? Or should I pursue it further?

Paul

 

I Would only be concerned that the rear wheel lines up with front wheel
JMO

 

Solid or spoke wheel?

 

Older round swingarm bikes wheel usually crowds to the chain side a hair. Later should center pretty close. Trick I use when this is in question, drop the tanks & fender, wheel on tight off the ground, do a sting line center down the backbone over the wheel. Frequently find the fender rails are off not the wheel. Big dead blow adjusting or shims inside the rail then address the wheel & spacing if still out. Swing arm pivot bolt could be shot, wears a grove on the chain side, that'll lean it good. String line is how I found all this when the owner swore everything was perfect on it, look at the wheel .

 

I have a square swingarm and my rear wheel looks the same as yours. I'm gonna take some kinetic energy to the struts and beat the suckers into visual alignment....one day...lol!

 

The only thing that really matters is the string line test that the front wheel and rear wheel line up. And a spirit level test that both wheels are standing up vertical. All the rest is aesthetics (except sprocket alignmnet of course.) If rear fender alignment really bothers you, adjust fender struts as suggested above. But from what I remember, a lot came from the factory with the tire closer to the fender on one side.

 

I've shimmed or massaged the rails on most all the old ones I get that far into, I can't let **** like that get past me if I know it out, chews on the brain till I fix it.

 

Front means little till the rest of it true. Get that right 2 8' 3/4" emt conduit sticks and couple bungee cords holding them on rear wheel will tell you exactly were the fronts sitting, rear aligned correctly and is neck and trees straight. Levels can lie to you, any millwright will tell you this. Wheels can line up and the frame still be a pretzel, bit more to it.

 

Thanks for the response

@hellonewman Spoke wheels. The rims are centered on the hub, which I believe is correct.

@TwiZted Biker The swingarm bolt is OEM new old stock I lucked upon, a really nice find. New in an unopened package that I opened.

I can see your is off, but in the picture, it looks like the wheel is tilted to the left at the top (it may just be the picture). Mine just looks like it a little to the right. No trans in the frame yet to see how the chain aligns.

The shocks and sheetmetal aren't installed so it was fairly low in the back and I used a straight edge and it looks very close to center with the backbone and seat tube. And the front wheel, although that is tricky because it could be turned just a little throwing everything off. But it may be worth checking at different levels to see if it changes. I also have a MotionPro alignment tool but don't trust it enough to use than only, both gave the same results. The string method I use is to align the front wheel with the rear, and I wrap string around the rear tire and then run the string forward of the front tire. with each string tied to a weight, even a gallon jug filled with water. The move the jugs until the string just touches the the edge of the tire on each side. Then check if the string is touching the rear wheel on each side equally. And with mine, the front and rear rotors at at the same angle.

I think I'm gong back through all the measurements and then see if I can figure out some to measure the geometry of just the stubs at the end of the frame where the shocks and struts attach. The HD frame specs do give a measurement for the distance between that area, but that doesn't mean it is square.

The HD manual gives dimensions for the round swingarm, but not the square one. I looked online and never found anything. I don't recall seeing one in the past that was dead center betwen the stubs for the struts and shocks, but it has been a while I used two swingarms and got results close enough to think they are correct. Part of me says don't worry about 3/16 of an inch, but I'm not satisfied yet.

thanks agian,
Paul

 

I've read of people using old fluorescent tubes to alighn the wheels. I'd be afraid they would burst. Ill see if I can run down some conduit sticks. Although I've had good luck with the string method.

Paul