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Old May 18, 2026 | 05:25 PM
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Default lifters

After reading around on the topic of lifters I decided to buy Eastern lifter bodies and the package says made in the USA. I got them and they look nice and have the Jap rollers on them. When comparing to the originals, I measure the outside diameter and OEM is .731" and Eastern are .730". I want to use my hydraulic insert (.516" OD) and it will not fit, the bore in the lifter body is too small. I am trying to send them back now. Not sure what I will do now.
 

Last edited by Ken45; May 18, 2026 at 07:47 PM.
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Old May 19, 2026 | 02:10 AM
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You get a pile of lifter bodies and the inserts and take a mic to them you find they are anything but consistent. One of the reasons you rarely the bodies alone, played mix & match with lifters well into the mid evo years. I'd take my mic to the dealer when had a cam job to be sure they were all the same size. Good luck in the hunt.
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 05:36 AM
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@Ken45 does Eastern lifter bodies with Japanese rollers and bearings come without the internal works?

I can't seem to find a source for them? Got a source and part number for what you are talking about?
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 02:42 PM
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10-0504 is a V Twin number for them and 18522-53A is the Eastern MC Parts. Be aware that the batch that they are selling now (the ones I got) are running a tappet insert bore size of .515". My OEM hydraulic insert is at .516" so it did not fit and I sent them back, I bought from the place below, they have a restocking fee that is not listed.. If you buy their inserts they will fit or they can be honed opened a few thou. for a case like mine The S&S inserts are .516" also from what I am told. I think I will go with the S&S assembly, but that is more money than buying the Eastern body and using my good OEM insert. I talked to the engineer at Eastern and the bore size has been a battle for the last ten years with all the different companies making them and he said even OEM had variations. I thought about keeping the Eastern bodies and having them honed to size but I have so much going on now that I do not want to mess with it. And yes the Eastern bodies have the Jap rollers, I saw it with my own eyes. lol

https://retrocycle.com/products/stan...eb0f9099&_ss=r
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 04:21 PM
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Why would you buy a gutted shell like that?

I have cleaned and did a bleed check on a lot of lifters on thrift inframe overhauled car motors. That internal part is probably fitted with in a few 0.0001 of and inch. I always replace even the lifters back to the correct hole.
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
Why would you buy a gutted shell like that?

I have cleaned and did a bleed check on a lot of lifters on thrift inframe overhauled car motors. That internal part is probably fitted with in a few 0.0001 of and inch. I always replace even the lifters back to the correct hole.
I did it because I wanted new rollers on the new cam that is going in the engine thinking the OEM hydraulic insert would fit the body. I could replace the rollers but I do not know how well I could peen the axle at home. These shovel lifters are set up a little different than automotive lifters. I was thinking about using EVO lifters that are like automotive but Race would not let me.
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 06:00 PM
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Still a little confused. You can't buy a compete lifter for your motor?

I have actually seen numers configured lifters. The last I did didn't have a ball bleed . They had a stamped + in a washer and bleed out grooves. Four cylinder in a YJ Jeep. The washer was worn but they still bleed down in the timed tolerance. However, that little 4 gave me fit. It had a tap when hot.

I had farmed out the head since seats were hard and needed ground. I gave them new valves. Told them I would put it together. They put it together and I assumed they got the stem height right. They didn't. No top adjust on rocker. I reworked that to get 0.100 into lifter.

Still a tick especially with synthetic. I had .003 piston clearance and it was just too much. Runs fine but little piston slap at bottom of stroke.. Has 30,000 on rebuid now.
 
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Old May 19, 2026 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
Still a little confused. You can't buy a compete lifter for your motor?

I have actually seen numers configured lifters. The last I did didn't have a ball bleed . They had a stamped + in a washer and bleed out grooves. Four cylinder in a YJ Jeep. The washer was worn but they still bleed down in the timed tolerance. However, that little 4 gave me fit. It had a tap when hot.

I had farmed out the head since seats were hard and needed ground. I gave them new valves. Told them I would put it together. They put it together and I assumed they got the stem height right. They didn't. No top adjust on rocker. I reworked that to get 0.100 into lifter.

Still a tick especially with synthetic. I had .003 piston clearance and it was just too much. Runs fine but little piston slap at bottom of stroke.. Has 30,000 on rebuid now.
Yes I can and probably will now The shovel lifter is composed of 2 separate pieces that can be bought separately and my OEM hydraulic piece I wanted to reuse and not spend $300 for new ones. This is the best I can do to explain. I am starting to think you do not know about the shovel lifter.
 

Last edited by Ken45; May 19, 2026 at 06:14 PM.
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Old May 19, 2026 | 06:25 PM
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From: Honah Lee
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Originally Posted by Ken45
Yes I can and probably will now The shovel lifter is composed of 2 separate pieces that can be bought separately and my OEM hydraulic piece I wanted to reuse and not spend $300 for new ones. This is the best I can do to explain. I am starting to think you do not know about the shovel lifter.
No, I sure don't. I was depending on you to educate me.

The pictures of those you sourced don't show a break down.

$300 is a lot for 4 lifters.

But I will educate myself now.

Your thread is saved in Shovelhead lifter folder for my reference.

If possible can you put a few pictures on here in this thread.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 19, 2026 at 06:33 PM.
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