Has anyone ever run an RK530XSO oring chain on a Shovel?

Stretch?

Miles?

Comments?

Thanks.

 

My bike used to be a '79 FXS. I am running a RK530XSO chain. There isn't much of the original bike left now but I am using the rear drive chain set up as was on the original bike. I have shimmed my rear sprocket over a bit because I am running a 150 tire. I am using the original type aluminum primary case. The chain did not clear the primary case; especially the master link (Of course, you know it's a bit wider than the chain itself). By the way, the RK chain did not come with a removable master link, I had to buy one, P/N R18-532XSO, separately. The master link that comes with the chain is the type that must be staked/peened in place. Some places will let you exchange the master link that comes with the chain for the removable type IF they have it in stock.
Regardless of the fact that I did shim my rear sprocket over some, I am damn-sure positive that the chain will hit the aluminum primary case even if the sprocket is in the stock position.
I had the new primary case I am using machined for clearance where the chain chewed on the old one. The old one did not fail because of the chain eating it, it had an unrelated issue that necessitated its replacement.
I had the new inner case machined down .065" where the old case was worn by the RK chain. This does "thin" the metal but there is gusseting cast into my replacement case on the inside that I believe will prevent any cracking problems from occuring. HOWEVER, time will tell on that count.
I need to figure out how to post a picture of said machining so you can see what I had done. It isn't a big deal to have this done. If you have access to a mill, then you got it made. I paid a small machine shop to do mine. If ya don't have access to a mill or no dough to pay for it to be done and ya have a die grinder with the necessary bit(s), then you could do it yourself but it would take some time (maybe 4 hours, give or take) to hog the area out for clearance.
When I put the first RK o-ring chain on, I did not think it would eat the primary as much as it did. I left that chain on there until it had "machined" the area itself as much as it needed to. I cleaned a lot of aluminum shavings off the chain and the surrounding area while this process was underway. After it stopped removing material, I no longer trusted the chain so I replaced it again (not a cheap proposition). As I said, I did not think it was going to remove as much as it actually did.
The RK chain on the bike now has stretched minimally.
I have a little over 7,000 miles on it right now and I believe I'll get at least 15,000 miles out of it.
The reason I went to this kind of chain is because my bike is a bit of a hotrod. If you are running a stock or only slightly warmed over engine then stick to stock replacement chains, you shouldn't need a heavier-duty chain.
If you need to go to an o-ring chain, you will, of course, still need to lube the chain because of the interface between the chain and the sprockets. I have been using Bel-Ray Super Clean chain lube with great success. It sprays on very thin (runny) and gets into all the recesses then dries to a waxy consistancy that won't fling off easily so it keeps your bike much cleaner back there. I'm sure there are other products out there that are similar.
I hope this diatribe wasn't too much info.
Good luck.

 

Photo of machine work done to inner primary case for chain clearance.
I'm not sure I did this right.


[IMG]local://upfiles/48871/722219562E914765AED4475062FF4C52.jpg[/IMG]

 

I "ve used Tsubaki chain over the years It's fairly cheap $45 plus or minus limited stretch no clearance problems as in all O ring chain Replace at at 4000 miles.J&Pcycles carrys it O ring chain has different master links per manufacture Good luck on the road if you lose one!

 

I'm running a Bikers Choice o-ring chain.