need help checking clutch adjustment
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Connecticut
need help checking clutch adjustment
I read that with a properly adjusted clutch I should be able to hold the lever in and turn the clutch by hand. Is that true? Inner or outer?...
I cant turn mine at all (could be why it is a BIT&$ to shift!
I cant turn mine at all (could be why it is a BIT&$ to shift!
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
Yeah you should be able to turn the clutch by hand by grabbing the pressure plate assembly (with the coil springs in it, if it is a dry clutch, see my reply in your other thread) but it might not be easy to turn if things are a little sticky in there.
If your clutch is not releasing, it could make shifting difficult and finding neutral at a stop impossible.
Do you have your outer primary cover off? If you do, it is the perfect time to pull your clutch apart, clean it up and inspect it. If you don't have a manual, you will need one now. I have no experience with Clymer or other aftermarket manuals. If ya don't have one, get the genuine HD shop manual for your bike...sorry if I am parroting what you already know. The HD manual costs around $60 -$65 from the dealer or you can, many times, find them for a better price on ebay.
If your clutch is not releasing, it could make shifting difficult and finding neutral at a stop impossible.
Do you have your outer primary cover off? If you do, it is the perfect time to pull your clutch apart, clean it up and inspect it. If you don't have a manual, you will need one now. I have no experience with Clymer or other aftermarket manuals. If ya don't have one, get the genuine HD shop manual for your bike...sorry if I am parroting what you already know. The HD manual costs around $60 -$65 from the dealer or you can, many times, find them for a better price on ebay.
Last edited by megawatt; Aug 31, 2008 at 11:39 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
Every year I take my clutch plates out to sand off the fibers /clean the steel plates Makes a difference All my old bikes have belt inner prims and old style three finger clutches along with Tamer kits
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 265
Likes: 10
From: Northern Wisconsin
Wet clutches do not release easily and I don't expect you'll be able to just pop it free by
hand. It depends on centrifugal force to fling off the excess primary oil and shake it loose when running. Is it giving you problems otherwise, or are you obsessing?
Hogdoc
hand. It depends on centrifugal force to fling off the excess primary oil and shake it loose when running. Is it giving you problems otherwise, or are you obsessing?
Hogdoc
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Connecticut
It it the stock three finger spring clutch from an 82 FX, and yes it is giving me problems. Pulling at stoplights, hard to shift (sometimes impossible to shift)...it acts like the clutch is not disengaging at all.
I do not have the primary off yet. I just sealed off the primary and am in the process of performing the clutch adjustment procedure in the manual. We will see if that helps. I think that either the disks are filthy and are sticking, or I have a few that are stuck together.
So I gather that I should be able to turn the clutch by hand (this is a "dry clutch" right?) even if it is "wet clutch" and is working like it is supposed to it should turn I think.
I do not have the primary off yet. I just sealed off the primary and am in the process of performing the clutch adjustment procedure in the manual. We will see if that helps. I think that either the disks are filthy and are sticking, or I have a few that are stuck together.
So I gather that I should be able to turn the clutch by hand (this is a "dry clutch" right?) even if it is "wet clutch" and is working like it is supposed to it should turn I think.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
At this point, I think you are going to have to take off the outer primary cover and get into your clutch. Get a couple of spray cans (I buy it by the case) of brake cleaner and clean up the steels, fibers and all the inside of the shell where the clutch resides. If you have the tools to take off the compensating sprocket (1 1/2" socket I think, yours may be different) pull the shell off the clutch hub and clean/inspect the fiber plate riveted to the clutch hub to make sure it is not broken and securely fastened. If you just follow the manual, you should be fine putting it back together and readjusting it.
I hope all goes well and you get your clutch working properly.
sqdealgeorge mentioned the Tamer in his post. Now would be a good time to install one of those. I personally have not used a Tamer, I have tried the Ramjett plastic disc and the Big Fix long bearings but it didn't help with my dragging problem...maybe the Tamer is better. sqdealgeorge has recommended it a few times to others so he must have had good luck with it.
I finally got so mad at my clutch problems, I bought a Barnett Scorpion clutch and never looked back. The Rivera Pro Clutch is of a similar design and quite a few on here are big supporters of 'em. The are both, very expensive (around $500). I got my Scorpion from Jireh for around $450 4 or 5 months ago.
I hope all goes well and you get your clutch working properly.
sqdealgeorge mentioned the Tamer in his post. Now would be a good time to install one of those. I personally have not used a Tamer, I have tried the Ramjett plastic disc and the Big Fix long bearings but it didn't help with my dragging problem...maybe the Tamer is better. sqdealgeorge has recommended it a few times to others so he must have had good luck with it.
I finally got so mad at my clutch problems, I bought a Barnett Scorpion clutch and never looked back. The Rivera Pro Clutch is of a similar design and quite a few on here are big supporters of 'em. The are both, very expensive (around $500). I got my Scorpion from Jireh for around $450 4 or 5 months ago.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: S.E. Connecticut
I just completed the adjustment and it does shift better (i used to have to yank it up into gear).
I still have a hard time finding neutral and it still pulls slightly at a stop.
Next project (not sure when I will get to it) is to pull the primary and clutch to clean the disks and steels. I am afraid to look in there and find the basket completely grooved...cant afford a new pro clutch and not sure I want to just replace with OEM.
Option 1: Clean plates and reassemble. (free)
Option 2: Get new fibers and a 5 finger hub and basket (if needed) (relatively inexpensive)
Option 3: Get Scorpion or Rivera Pro complete kit (cant afford)
I still have a hard time finding neutral and it still pulls slightly at a stop.
Next project (not sure when I will get to it) is to pull the primary and clutch to clean the disks and steels. I am afraid to look in there and find the basket completely grooved...cant afford a new pro clutch and not sure I want to just replace with OEM.
Option 1: Clean plates and reassemble. (free)
Option 2: Get new fibers and a 5 finger hub and basket (if needed) (relatively inexpensive)
Option 3: Get Scorpion or Rivera Pro complete kit (cant afford)
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 64
From: SoCal
I'd say Option 1 is your best bet right now.
Option 2 hopefully ain't necessary and I'm not all that enamored with the five finger clutch hubs. I tried one of them and it didn't help me. If you do replace the fibers, I actually had my best luck with the stock type replacement plates. The fancier ones didn't help or just made the situation worse. Of course, that ain't saying that stuff won't help you, if you determine you need any of it.
I truly hope you never need to go with Option 3...but it worked for me. I would have NEVER dropped that kind of coin had I not been desperate and disgusted.
Option 2 hopefully ain't necessary and I'm not all that enamored with the five finger clutch hubs. I tried one of them and it didn't help me. If you do replace the fibers, I actually had my best luck with the stock type replacement plates. The fancier ones didn't help or just made the situation worse. Of course, that ain't saying that stuff won't help you, if you determine you need any of it.
I truly hope you never need to go with Option 3...but it worked for me. I would have NEVER dropped that kind of coin had I not been desperate and disgusted.
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 141
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From:
I put wet/dry clutch plates and an aluminum pressure plate with a Ramjet retainer in my old Shovel about 20+ years ago.Stock HD friction plates won't work in a sealed primary.I still have the original steel plates,bearing,basket, and three finger hub.I sealed off the primary and put Harley primary lube in it,just up to the bottom of the clutch basket with the bike on the side stand.Make sure you have 1/2" dimension between clutch arm and the starter housing.Make sure your clutch springs are all compressed equally. To clean the friction plates I use white gas(like coleman fuel)a brass barbque brush and compressed air.Take your derby cover off and start your bike,when you pull in the clutch lever the pressure plate and everything inside the clutch basket should stop spinning.