The Bride of FrankenBike Returns...
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From: New Mexico
The Bride of FrankenBike Returns...
No it's not a monster movie except for the demonic inner workings of this bike that I bought last January from a an immoral, heartless, scoundrel who ....well the stroy is told elsewhere on these pages ande I'll not bother you, my friends with the sordid detail. Except to say whata joy it is uncovering more of his deceit as I take FrankenBike apart.
So while I am waiting on my gaskets to rebuild the rotary top 4 speed Tranny. I decided tocheck out the alternator assembly. And again I'm confused.
My Haynes manual shows the windings on the stator covered in plastic. Are they supposed to be like that? Also, one of the magnets on the rotor is chipped. Is this critical?
And last but not least...there was a little engine oil on the inside of the rotor. Is this a sign of a bad crankshaft oil seal. Are they hard to replace?
Should I prepare the dynamite?
Your input is invaluable.
Thanks, Sissy
So while I am waiting on my gaskets to rebuild the rotary top 4 speed Tranny. I decided tocheck out the alternator assembly. And again I'm confused.
My Haynes manual shows the windings on the stator covered in plastic. Are they supposed to be like that? Also, one of the magnets on the rotor is chipped. Is this critical?
And last but not least...there was a little engine oil on the inside of the rotor. Is this a sign of a bad crankshaft oil seal. Are they hard to replace?
Should I prepare the dynamite?
Your input is invaluable.
Thanks, Sissy
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,569
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From: Arizona
when you say oil on the rotor im figuring your talking about the opposite side of the alternator, where the pickup is. if so its pretty easy, thats one of the first things i had to do on my bike because it was leaking. just put a mark on the timing plate before you take it off and youll be fine. the book also recommends using a certain color of loctite, forget which one, purple or something like that, maybe some ones else knows.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,286
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From: SoCal
The stator should still have the insulation coating on it. It can be clear or opaque plastic looking stuff. If you have an ohmmeter, check the stator for open, check for resistance and make sure it is not grounded. Also look to see if the rotor has hit it anywhere. If it checks out good, then it's your call as to whether you change it or not. Looks like it needs a good cleaning in there too.
I notice the stator is held in place with socket cap screws and the factory screw locking plates are used. The locking plate is not designed to "lock" against the round surface of those bolt heads. Slotted screws were the original fasteners as I remember and that locking plate is crimped into the slot on the screw to keep it from backing out.
The rotor magnet with a chip could be okay. It is an indication that it was dropped or something hit it. Magnets do not like shocks like being hit or dropped. They loose their magnetic properties. If the magnet is not loose (or any of the magnets for that matter) and your battery was staying charged, then it is probably okay.
You are running a belt drive in your primary as I remember. The oil inside the alternator would be from it not being cleaned when it was converted from chain to belt or the seal is leaking.
Best bet is to replace the seal and if any wear is present on the spacer (the piece that the seal's rubber is rubbing against) replace it as well.
Not hard to replace but be careful pulling it so you don't damage any sealing surfaces.
I notice you have Delkron engine cases...good stuff.
I notice the stator is held in place with socket cap screws and the factory screw locking plates are used. The locking plate is not designed to "lock" against the round surface of those bolt heads. Slotted screws were the original fasteners as I remember and that locking plate is crimped into the slot on the screw to keep it from backing out.
The rotor magnet with a chip could be okay. It is an indication that it was dropped or something hit it. Magnets do not like shocks like being hit or dropped. They loose their magnetic properties. If the magnet is not loose (or any of the magnets for that matter) and your battery was staying charged, then it is probably okay.
You are running a belt drive in your primary as I remember. The oil inside the alternator would be from it not being cleaned when it was converted from chain to belt or the seal is leaking.
Best bet is to replace the seal and if any wear is present on the spacer (the piece that the seal's rubber is rubbing against) replace it as well.
Not hard to replace but be careful pulling it so you don't damage any sealing surfaces.
I notice you have Delkron engine cases...good stuff.
Last edited by megawatt; Aug 18, 2009 at 01:23 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
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From: Sheboygan, WI
Sissy, I wouldn't worry about the chipped magnet. Just make sure none of the magnets are loose like megawatt said. None of this stuff is too earthshattering, not like the junk trans and primary setup you found when you first got the bike. Just ohm out the stator windings and i'd let it go as is, with a little cleaning. I wouldn't even worry about the seal. As I remember, you were looking into a stock primary setup, so the oil will get in there regardless.
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From: New Mexico
Hey Y'all, thanks for the help, as always. Seriously, living in the sticks as I do, without your generous advice, I'd still be staring at the outer primary.
Yes D Slacker, I never thought about the oil leak. Now that I think about it, it's just an unexpected oil feed to the primary. In your opinion, is a closed primary bath a better or worse idea than the hose fed oil bath?
Can you tell me or point me to the technigue for using a VOM on the stator?
Thanks
Yes D Slacker, I never thought about the oil leak. Now that I think about it, it's just an unexpected oil feed to the primary. In your opinion, is a closed primary bath a better or worse idea than the hose fed oil bath?
Can you tell me or point me to the technigue for using a VOM on the stator?
Thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
You can run either with good luck. Some don't believe in modifying the factory setup, but I personally isolated my primary chaincase. I don't like the idea of having the junk return back to the fresh oil supply. If you do this, you will have to be sure that you have a wet/dry clutch disk in there, as the stock disks will definitely slip
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