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First of I will give you my the tip to keep the tube out of your way while adjusting.Use a wooded spring type clothes pin to hold the tube up then for hydraulic
break the lock nuts loose after that hold the small flat area with a wrench while
turning the adjuster until the plunger in the lifter bottoms out,then turn it back out one and one half turns.(Do This with the valve closed)This is for HYDRAULIC LIFTERS ONLY !!!
For SOLID LIFTERS I do it with the valve also closed,break the lock nuts loose and the with the engine hot I feel the freeplay in the
pushrod up and down play and adjust it untill I do not feel it anymore but making sure that the pushrod can still spin.These methods
work but you must first find out what you are adjusting Hydraulic or Solid.
I took one of my wrenchs ( a 7/16, if I remember correctly ) and ground it down thinner.Makes getting the wrench in there a little easier.Hydrolics adjust on the push rod,solids adjust on the lifter.Cloths pins are a must.
Hydro's have a spring on the top end of the unit, just below the head where the pushrod rests. You can pull out the unit from the roller body and separate the lifter itself into two pieces, it will have a tube on the lower end for oil to go in and a check valve built in the lower half to hold oil pressure. Yea you'll need a couple thin 7/16" open end wrenches. I always adj mine dry, leave the roller body oiled up I depress the checkvalve with something small inside the tube, rinse with sovent, dry off, then adj pushrod out till it bottoms the hydraulic unit then back in the rod 1-3/4 turns and lock it. Solids I'd have to check but those you gotta do cold.
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