Need Help with Adjustable Pushrods
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: The Peach State!
Need Help with Adjustable Pushrods
I'm using the Scraeming Eagle adjustable pushrods on my '06 Ultra. The instructions say to go 2.5 turns tighter after removing slack. While talking with a tech at the dealer he asked me if they were fine or course threads. I told him they were fine and he said on fine threads he goes four turns. Those of you who used these I would like to know where you adjusted yours. I just need to know for sure which is right so I can ride with no worries.
Thanks
Thanks
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Daytona, Fla.
Make sure the lifter is on the heal of the cam (opposite of the lobe). Tighten the push rod *just* until all slack is gone, then tighten 1 turn (6 flats of the nut). Allow the lifter to bleed down. You can tell it's bled down when you can turn the push rod with just your fingers.
Repeat until you bottom the lifter (the push rod can't be turned with your fingers) allow several minutes between each tightening & each attempt to rotate the push rod. If you go beyond the bottom of the lifter you're opening the valve. Back off to *exactly* the bottom of the lifter. After you reach that point, back off the adjustment anywhere between 1 & 1.75 turns (6 to 10 flats). You now have a good tight adjustment with enough slack for the lifter to experience some pump up. Takes a little time to do all four, but it's well worth the effort. Course threads would be backed off 1 turn or a little more, fine threads would be 1.75 turns..........
Repeat until you bottom the lifter (the push rod can't be turned with your fingers) allow several minutes between each tightening & each attempt to rotate the push rod. If you go beyond the bottom of the lifter you're opening the valve. Back off to *exactly* the bottom of the lifter. After you reach that point, back off the adjustment anywhere between 1 & 1.75 turns (6 to 10 flats). You now have a good tight adjustment with enough slack for the lifter to experience some pump up. Takes a little time to do all four, but it's well worth the effort. Course threads would be backed off 1 turn or a little more, fine threads would be 1.75 turns..........
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Vermont
Are they new taper SE's or the old SE's? The new ones are 24tpi and I think the old ones are 32tpi
Divide the TPI (32) by 10 to get the number of turns yo need for 100 thou.
32/10 = 3.2 , so adjust them 3.5 turns.
Divide the TPI (32) by 10 to get the number of turns yo need for 100 thou.
32/10 = 3.2 , so adjust them 3.5 turns.
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: The Peach State!
It's running fine, I just don't want to float a valve at higher rpm's if I'm close to bottoming out a lifter at four turns. So I can run the bike to warm the engine.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
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From: Anderson, SC
I set mine at 3 turns. may go 3.5 Mine were 24tpi.
Last edited by mopar; Mar 22, 2009 at 09:21 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Vancouver Island B.C.
I then multiply by 6 (the # of "flats"). 3.5 * 6 = 21 (.121). I find that makes it easier to count.
Last edited by Lonewolf176; Mar 22, 2009 at 11:39 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Central Oregon
If you are using the old style SE pushrods 17997-99A the correct procedure is to take out all the slack (zero clearance) and then 2 1/2 turns as per J01774 instructions. I have had great success with this procedure.
The new SE tapered pushrods 18404-08 are the same. Take out all the slack and then 2 1/2 turns as per J04545 instructions.
Instructions for both can be found at HTT forum or pm me for a link. Unless you are using some odd ball lifters I would think that these procedures will get you set up with no problems.
The new SE tapered pushrods 18404-08 are the same. Take out all the slack and then 2 1/2 turns as per J04545 instructions.
Instructions for both can be found at HTT forum or pm me for a link. Unless you are using some odd ball lifters I would think that these procedures will get you set up with no problems.