I'm using the Scraeming Eagle adjustable pushrods on my '06 Ultra. The instructions say to go 2.5 turns tighter after removing slack. While talking with a tech at the dealer he asked me if they were fine or course threads. I told him they were fine and he said on fine threads he goes four turns. Those of you who used these I would like to know where you adjusted yours. I just need to know for sure which is right so I can ride with no worries.

Thanks

 

Make sure the lifter is on the heal of the cam (opposite of the lobe). Tighten the push rod *just* until all slack is gone, then tighten 1 turn (6 flats of the nut). Allow the lifter to bleed down. You can tell it's bled down when you can turn the push rod with just your fingers.
Repeat until you bottom the lifter (the push rod can't be turned with your fingers) allow several minutes between each tightening & each attempt to rotate the push rod. If you go beyond the bottom of the lifter you're opening the valve. Back off to *exactly* the bottom of the lifter. After you reach that point, back off the adjustment anywhere between 1 & 1.75 turns (6 to 10 flats). You now have a good tight adjustment with enough slack for the lifter to experience some pump up. Takes a little time to do all four, but it's well worth the effort. Course threads would be backed off 1 turn or a little more, fine threads would be 1.75 turns..........

 

Are they new taper SE's or the old SE's? The new ones are 24tpi and I think the old ones are 32tpi

Divide the TPI (32) by 10 to get the number of turns yo need for 100 thou.

32/10 = 3.2 , so adjust them 3.5 turns.

 

Thanks Jinks,

Can I make these adj's with a warm engine so they'll bleed down faster? Thanks for the help!

 

How ya going to warm the engine with the push rods not installed or out of adjustment. Only have to wait about ten minutes between cylinders and ten before you do the start up

 

It's running fine, I just don't want to float a valve at higher rpm's if I'm close to bottoming out a lifter at four turns. So I can run the bike to warm the engine.

 

I set mine at 3 turns. may go 3.5 Mine were 24tpi.

 

I then multiply by 6 (the # of "flats"). 3.5 * 6 = 21 (.121). I find that makes it easier to count.

 

must flag this one... going to SE pushrods.

 

If you are using the old style SE pushrods 17997-99A the correct procedure is to take out all the slack (zero clearance) and then 2 1/2 turns as per J01774 instructions. I have had great success with this procedure.

The new SE tapered pushrods 18404-08 are the same. Take out all the slack and then 2 1/2 turns as per J04545 instructions.

Instructions for both can be found at HTT forum or pm me for a link. Unless you are using some odd ball lifters I would think that these procedures will get you set up with no problems.