good battery, no lights or horn or elec. start
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
good battery, no lights or horn or elec. start
1976 shovel with stock type ignition switch in dash-6 screw type. Battery fully charged. When ignition is off at dash switch, voltmeter shows voltage at #1 terminal-it gets the wire from the battery, But when switch is turned on to the the 1st stop the voltmeter shows zero at the #1 terminal and the others and no lights and no horn and nothing electric. This is where it's always beeen started and run from. Voltage is at the solenoid and cranks starter when jumped with screwdriver. Replaced ignition switch and still nothing. As long as ignition switch is off voltage is present at most of the 6 terminals. But turn ignition switch on and it reads no voltage. Could it be the circuit breakers?
Last edited by astros; Sep 20, 2010 at 12:43 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,140
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
1976 shovel with stock type ignition switch in dash-6 screw type. Battery fully charged. When ignition is off at dash switch, voltmeter shows voltage at #1 terminal-it gets the wire from the battery, But when switch is turned on to the the 1st stop the voltmeter shows zero at the #1 terminal and the others and no lights and no horn and nothing electric. This is where it's always beeen started and run from. Voltage is at the solenoid and cranks starter when jumped with screwdriver. Replaced ignition switch and still nothing. As long as ignition switch is off voltage is present at most of the 6 terminals. But turn ignition switch on and no it reads no voltage. Could it be the circuit breakers?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,140
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
Interesting, so you have a direct "hot" lead from the positive battery terminal to the switch? You might want to rectify that while you are troubleshooting, if that wire ever rubs itself to ground you'll see a lot of smoke. The voltage will be at the solenoid, because that voltage doesn't go through the switch, it's a direct feed from the battery, the relay power forthe solenoid goes through the switch.
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Will soon put breaker in line from battery to terminal, but for now it gets juice to switch terminals until switch is turned on. Checked if it would jump at solenoid was attempt to find current-anywhere. Only place current shows is at battery, the cable to the solenoid, the wire to the ignition switchfrom the battery, and at ignition terminals sometimes. ??? Is a closed circuit or an open circuit supposed to read voltage when switch is on, or off ? ; If the IGN. circuit breaker went out, and the ACC. circuit breaker went out, can't I check them for continuity to see if they're bad. Can't see them both going out at the sametime, usually don't they cool off and reset?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,140
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
Will soon put breaker in line from battery to terminal, but for now it gets juice to switch terminals until switch is turned on. Checked if it would jump at solenoid was attempt to find current-anywhere. Only place current shows is at battery, the cable to the solenoid, the wire to the ignition switchfrom the battery, and at ignition terminals sometimes. ??? Is a closed circuit or an open circuit supposed to read voltage when switch is on, or off ? ; If the IGN. circuit breaker went out, and the ACC. circuit breaker went out, can't I check them for continuity to see if they're bad. Can't see them both going out at the sametime, usually don't they cool off and reset?
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 252
Likes: 4
From: POZO, CAL.
Have you checked the ground cable? Another thought, the kill switch. On my 76 the kill switch messed up, turned ign. on and nothing. Took kill switch apart ,wired it in on. Turned ign. back on, she fired right up.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Battery ground cable OK. Haven't checked other grounds at headlamp or horn. It's dead everywhere, no taillight or brake light or headlight or horn, no lights in the dash for neutral, oil, high beam, not even intermittent. Took tanks off last night to look for loose wires but nothing.
Checking kill switch tonight, knock on wood.
Checking kill switch tonight, knock on wood.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,140
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
Could be the kill switch. Electronics can be tough to diagnose, it is best to have a methodical plan or you can chase them forever. It appears you have power from the battery to the switch and also to the solenoid, so you have eliminted the battery and those wires. If the kill switch checks out ok, you really need to run some tests on the switch itself. If that is good, you will need to follow each circuit until you find issues. A good meter, a lot of patience and a basic understanding of electrical properties (short vs. open, resistance, voltage and current) should be able to determine the problem.
Thread Starter
|
Novice
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Checked kill switch, stock type run/off at handlebar and nothing messed up in there, checked other side too--horn, is OK also.
Terminals/ignition switch seem to be OK, checked with ohmeter a Sears unit that reads 1 or 000. Disconnected battery and checked solenoid---large lug(battery, disconnected) to small and ohmeter stays at 1; then small lug(wire to ign.) and bottom lug(wire to starter) and reads 000. And with ohmeter checked dash light sockets to terminal and to breakers.
N0 lights, no horn, no ignition.
Terminals/ignition switch seem to be OK, checked with ohmeter a Sears unit that reads 1 or 000. Disconnected battery and checked solenoid---large lug(battery, disconnected) to small and ohmeter stays at 1; then small lug(wire to ign.) and bottom lug(wire to starter) and reads 000. And with ohmeter checked dash light sockets to terminal and to breakers.
N0 lights, no horn, no ignition.