78 Superglide
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: 2nd deadliest civil war battle
78 Superglide
I have a buddy back home that has a 78 superglide that he has done a ton of work on and had a ton of work done as well. Engine was completely gone through and replaced the fuel system. Anyways he got his bike back a few years ago and took it for the maiden voyage and it ran great, but he got about 2-3 miles down the road and it died on him and would not restart until it cooled down.
Anyone got any ideas he has let his bike just sit for years because he says it's unridable and unreliable. I have offered to buy it from him but he will not sell it. It is a part of him and his history so it remains in his garage covered.
Anyone got any ideas he has let his bike just sit for years because he says it's unridable and unreliable. I have offered to buy it from him but he will not sell it. It is a part of him and his history so it remains in his garage covered.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,495
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From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
I have a buddy back home that has a 78 superglide that he has done a ton of work on and had a ton of work done as well. Engine was completely gone through and replaced the fuel system. Anyways he got his bike back a few years ago and took it for the maiden voyage and it ran great, but he got about 2-3 miles down the road and it died on him and would not restart until it cooled down.
First question is what do you men by "replaced the fuel system"? Carb? Lines? Gas tanks? Caps? Wrong gas caps will kill you, float not properly adjusted, gas tanks that are plugged with $**** and blocked the fuel filter will stop you dead.
Electircal? Checked the battery cables for cracks? Short in coil? Bad plugs? Condenser going south? Short in switch? Short in wiring?
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 902
Likes: 506
From: 2nd deadliest civil war battle
Fuel system referring to everything you wrote was replaced and the tank was repainted. Bike was completely tore down and has new wires. Not sure on some of the other stuff. I know she fires up and runs really well until it warms up then she is dead on the road.
Sorry don't have a lot more info than that. I will see if I can get him to join the forum and diagnose this thing so we can get riding.
Sorry don't have a lot more info than that. I will see if I can get him to join the forum and diagnose this thing so we can get riding.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
I'll bet money it's either the cam sensor or the ignition module.
He needs to identify if he has spark when the bike dies. To Do So ... do not shut the bike's ignition off when it dies ... then pull a plug boot and test for spark. Do not shut it off, or wait for several minutes ... when it dies, leave ignition on and check for spark right then! I just pull a boot off one plug and hit the starter. You can either watch for an arc or hold on to it and get a little jolt if it's sparking.
The problem gets worse until it has to set longer each time for it to restart until it doesn't run anymore. Cam sensors are less expensive than ignition modules but in my case I started with the least expensive items ... ignition circuit breaker, coil ... then the cam sensor and it wasn't until I substituted the ignition module that I knew for sure it was the module. I upgraded to a better than stock unit. Many to chose from and they will improve the bike's performance.
If you have spark then it's a fuel issue. Could be as simple as the fuel filter being plugged, or a vent tube being pinched, collapsed, or plugged up.
He needs to identify if he has spark when the bike dies. To Do So ... do not shut the bike's ignition off when it dies ... then pull a plug boot and test for spark. Do not shut it off, or wait for several minutes ... when it dies, leave ignition on and check for spark right then! I just pull a boot off one plug and hit the starter. You can either watch for an arc or hold on to it and get a little jolt if it's sparking.
The problem gets worse until it has to set longer each time for it to restart until it doesn't run anymore. Cam sensors are less expensive than ignition modules but in my case I started with the least expensive items ... ignition circuit breaker, coil ... then the cam sensor and it wasn't until I substituted the ignition module that I knew for sure it was the module. I upgraded to a better than stock unit. Many to chose from and they will improve the bike's performance.
If you have spark then it's a fuel issue. Could be as simple as the fuel filter being plugged, or a vent tube being pinched, collapsed, or plugged up.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 1
From: West Michigan
I agree with the problem being spark or fuel but, if this bike is a '78 then it is old school. It should be points and condensor ignition, Harley went to electronic ignition in '78 1/2, that was one of the reasons for the half year models. Before anyone starts in........I had a '78 1/2 FXE Superglide.
All that said, check for bad grounds, I had that happen on my superglide.
Good Luck
By the way, JohnnyC, I had an '81 FLT 88 inch Shovlehead stroker...............Daddy to your '86....... LOL
All that said, check for bad grounds, I had that happen on my superglide.
Good Luck
By the way, JohnnyC, I had an '81 FLT 88 inch Shovlehead stroker...............Daddy to your '86....... LOL
Last edited by motrhd; Feb 4, 2011 at 01:12 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Good idea by Johhny C if it is a 78-1/2 model. Another thing to add to the list if it still running points,,,bad condenser. Easiest way to check it is to replace it. If it is made in Mexico, your friend is lucky it lasted as long as it did.
Quick question, when the tanks were repainted did the painter cover the gas cap hole? Overspray is gonna break down with gas and clog fuel line. How old are the tanks? Rust breaking down the inside will also clog the fuel line. Probably easiest way to check is to drain the tank and look inside. With fuel in the tank you just cannot be sure IMO anyway.
What kind of carb? What kind of float?
Guess I am sort of up in the air as to which problem would be easiest to diagnose first and eliminate...carb or fuel?
Quick question, when the tanks were repainted did the painter cover the gas cap hole? Overspray is gonna break down with gas and clog fuel line. How old are the tanks? Rust breaking down the inside will also clog the fuel line. Probably easiest way to check is to drain the tank and look inside. With fuel in the tank you just cannot be sure IMO anyway.
What kind of carb? What kind of float?
Guess I am sort of up in the air as to which problem would be easiest to diagnose first and eliminate...carb or fuel?
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
So 78 1/2 was when they changed over. The symptoms lead me to believe an intermittent ignition system and you don't usually have that type of issue with points & condensor ... that I'm aware of.
The tank issue can certainly be part of it. I know my 86 had massive debris in it and it collected on the filter. It could have been my issue until I discovered no spark at the times it stopped running.
Funny how it would run perfectly until it died. Then it always restarted. That lead me around in circles for a while. I now have a completely rebuilt ignition and charging system on that bike that I feel a lot better about trusting it on the road trips.
I guess my 86 FLT EVO is not a Grand Daddy to the Road Glide, just the predecessor. It was 1980 the FLT was introduced with a Shovel Head.
The tank issue can certainly be part of it. I know my 86 had massive debris in it and it collected on the filter. It could have been my issue until I discovered no spark at the times it stopped running.
Funny how it would run perfectly until it died. Then it always restarted. That lead me around in circles for a while. I now have a completely rebuilt ignition and charging system on that bike that I feel a lot better about trusting it on the road trips.
I guess my 86 FLT EVO is not a Grand Daddy to the Road Glide, just the predecessor. It was 1980 the FLT was introduced with a Shovel Head.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 1
From: West Michigan
All very good ideas, I would go after the fuel system first by making sure that you have a vented gas cap and are getting a good fuel supply. I would then change out the condensor, if fuel supply was not the issue, and then I would consider the coil. It sounds like a non vented gas cap, I've seen it before. The bike will run fine until you build enough vacuum in the tank to prevent fuel flow.
The condensor and coil can also both be affected by heat. If the bike will start right back up immediately without cool down, then it is probably not the ignition.
Good Luck
Oh and JohnnyC.......I wasn't pickin on you or knockin anything..........I was just funnin and informin, you are right about the '80 FLT........Damn I'm OLD
The condensor and coil can also both be affected by heat. If the bike will start right back up immediately without cool down, then it is probably not the ignition.
Good Luck
Oh and JohnnyC.......I wasn't pickin on you or knockin anything..........I was just funnin and informin, you are right about the '80 FLT........Damn I'm OLD
Last edited by motrhd; Feb 5, 2011 at 08:44 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
I hadn't really considered all the FLT's that transitioned to the Road Glide. Considering the first version had a Shovelhead, then it became the EVO, and of course today it's the twin cam. My ride really wouldn't be the granddaddy to today's R/G ... just an old relative ... lol.
It's all good.
Hope the OP can trace down his issue.
It's all good.
Hope the OP can trace down his issue.