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82 FXB Sturgis.....deal or moneypit?

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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:18 PM
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Question 82 FXB Sturgis.....deal or moneypit?

Greetings.

I recently came across an opportunity to pick up an '82 FXB, a carbon copy of my beloved Sturgis stolen over 25 years ago. Decent price, but here is the kicker:

It has been sitting in inside storage for 10 years without having been run! So think 10 year old fuel, 10 year old oils, dead electric, and so on.

ASSUMING for the sake of conversation the bike was sound mechanically prior to inactivity, what are member's opinions on the financial risk in taking this on? Is it still an opportunity......or bankruptcy waiting to happen?

All opinions matter!

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 01:05 AM
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I did it with an 82 FXRS that sat for over 20 years but only had about 7500 miles on it. I did a lot of stuff to it but none of it was real expensive. Here is a list of what I did at the time but it's not in order and I probably haven't thought of it all.

New tires and battery.

Made and installed larger battery cables. May not have really needed them but they looked small to me and I was having kick back problems which I thought was the starter being weak.

Pulled primary cover and cleaned out all the yuk at the bottom.

Replaced the degraded primary chain oiler hose inside the primary.

Dissebled and cleaned oil from the dry clutch plates.

Checked primary chain tension.

Pumped out oil tank and swabbed the tank completely clean.

Pulled oil filter and cranked engine with spark plugs out to drain as much as possible. Engine had been run before starting the oil changing and cleaning.

Ran new oil/filter with heavy duty sludge removal additive for a short time, driving very easily to get the oil hot but not loading the engine and then did #s 5 and 6 again. I changed the oil and filter again after a couple of hundred miles.

Replaced trani oil a couple of times.

Dissembled carburator and cleaned it out everywhere. S&S super E and the cold start orifice in the bowl was clogged. Rest cleaned up OK. Checked carb to intake seals and clamps. Installed new throttle cables.


New air cleaner element

Checked oil screan on fuel pump, it was OK

Checked timing, it was out badly. Engine would kick back against starter sometimes which ruined the bendix drive before I understood what was going on.

Checked hydraulic lifter settings.

Checked all the electrical connections and followed the wires looking for chafed spots and repaired.

Drained and replaced both brake fluids and fork oil.

Replaced fork seals. They failed shortly after starting to ride a lot.

New o-ring chain, closed off the auto oiler.

Greased rear wheel bearings while wheel was out.

Replaced front wheel bearings, water must have got in as they were rusted.

Lubed speedo cable and drive gear at the hub while the wheel was out

Replaced the degraded first front brake line to the tee with new steel braid.

Replaced handle bar mount elastomers

Removed and cleaned the fuel tank out as best as possible and cleaned the screen often for quite a while after. Fuel filter may need replacing. I replaced the gas cap. If the vent sticks the engine can run lean or quit all together.

Aligned engine/rear wheel. Rubber mounted engine on an FXR.

Replaced coil and spark plug cables after riding a while.

Checked out exhaust pipe mounting and seals to make sure all was OK.

Seat was bad and installed a used seat set from a FXRT which my wife likes.

Lubed the pedel and lever bearings.


Since I did all this the bike has been very reliable. I've never had a Harley before and doing all this really let me know what I have and how to take care of it. Most of the parts I got online or from an independant Harley repair shop which was much cheeper than from a dealer and they usually know more about old bikes. Most of this stuff is what would have been done as normal maintenance anyway.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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Thanks my friend! That was about as much an in depth reply as I could have ever hoped for. You hit way more than I was initially contemplating. So now I have to consider the additional expenses versus paying the extra for a bike in operational condition.

Again I thank you.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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You might want to take a look inside the cylinders to see how much rust is in there. If the engine wasn't "pickled" (and most aren't) before storage, you are almost guaranteed to have some rust on the cylinder walls, valve stems, etc.
If there is rust, you will probably wear out the rings fairly quickly, could experience valve sticking, etc.
If you can get your hands on a borescope, turn the engine until the piston in the cylinder being checked is at bottom dead center, so you can see as much as possible of the wall.
If you do buy it, and have the option, fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil, and let them soak overnight before turning the engine over. Spray some through the intake tract to hit the valve stems as well.
Depending on the condition, price, and your ability to work on it, it could be a great opportunity, or it could be a money pit.
Edited to add TIRES!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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I've done a number of sat forever bikes and non have become money pits really unless your trying to get everything back to exact OEM showroom condition . A sealed sitting motor that was running when parked unless it's been left out to the weather should be in decent shape . I revived a 73 shovel not long ago for a guy that sat 17 plus years wasn't a bit of rust in the motor . Good luck and what kinda money the wanting for it ?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Nice work! They're asking 6K negotiable.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Depending on the overall condition and whether it's still decent somewhat original condition meaning all the right cosmetic parts are there that would be a decent buy even if you do have to do some mechanical work to bring it up to par , not a lot of those around intact .
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 05:29 PM
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The amount of corrosion that takes place in a stored engine depends on local atmospheric conditions and the condition of the engine oil when it was stored. In Florida, you can't leave any ferrous metal unprotected, even inside. In dryer states, it's not as much of a problem.

Edited to add that it also depends on whether intake or exhaust valves are open when the engine stops.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Panshovevo
The amount of corrosion that takes place in a stored engine depends on local atmospheric conditions and the condition of the engine oil when it was stored. In Florida, you can't leave any ferrous metal unprotected, even inside. In dryer states, it's not as much of a problem.

Edited to add that it also depends on whether intake or exhaust valves are open when the engine stops.
Florida stainless steel will corrode , with humidity you can swim through and salt water on 3/4 of the state borders your pretty much screwed .
 
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Florida stainless steel will corrode , with humidity you can swim through and salt water on 3/4 of the state borders your pretty much screwed .
Sad, but true. On the other hand, my brother stored a '69 Norton in a block shed in PA in 1985, when he lost the use of his legs. I dragged it out two years ago, during a visit, and found the engine locked up tight, tranny locked up, every exposed bit of metal badly corroded...
 
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