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75 FXE voltage regulator question

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:31 AM
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Default 75 FXE voltage regulator question

Could an accidental arc (touching the frame while tightening down the positive wires on the battery) burn up the regulator?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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The old 4 pin systems where touchy but I can't remember frying one that way , I'd look at the pins in the case & the plug that's where they usually cook .
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
The old 4 pin systems where touchy but I can't remember frying one that way , I'd look at the pins in the case & the plug that's where they usually cook .
Mine has been updated, has the 2 pin female plug. Actually had the indy shop check my charging system. They determined it was the regulator. I bought a new Accel, put it on at my job, checked the volts at the battery, seemed to be charging fine. I rode home that night tried to crank her up the next morning no go. I put her on slow trickle came home checked volts at battery, not charging...
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Had accel stuff flake right out of the box before so don't know what to tell you sorry , it is frustrating .
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cadillac6661
Mine has been updated, has the 2 pin female plug. Actually had the indy shop check my charging system. They determined it was the regulator. I bought a new Accel, put it on at my job, checked the volts at the battery, seemed to be charging fine. I rode home that night tried to crank her up the next morning no go. I put her on slow trickle came home checked volts at battery, not charging...
Are you sayin the battery isn't taking a charge? I am assuming your connections are all clean and tight especially the ground at both ends. I would jump start from a car battery (car not running!!) then check voltage after your bike starts at the battery. If it's got 12.5 vdc or more, then your charging system is tryin to do it's job. That means more than likely the battery is bad.
Sorry, didn't mean to jump in but I've had the exact problem so I figgured to tell ya what has worked for me...
Good Luck!!!
jim
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by msgtarmor
Are you sayin the battery isn't taking a charge? I am assuming your connections are all clean and tight especially the ground at both ends. I would jump start from a car battery (car not running!!) then check voltage after your bike starts at the battery. If it's got 12.5 vdc or more, then your charging system is tryin to do it's job. That means more than likely the battery is bad.
Sorry, didn't mean to jump in but I've had the exact problem so I figgured to tell ya what has worked for me...
Good Luck!!!
jim
No apology needed! I mean with all hooked up. Usually you can watch the volts increase (or that's my understanding) all I see is a steady drop. The plug isn't polarized is it?
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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ps. Battery is brand new as well.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:40 PM
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No , you don't polarize anything on these unless you've got the old generator & mechanical regulator .

2 tests you can do with 12v meter , 1st check the voltage of the battery sitting should be between 12.4 - 12.8 volts . Start the bike and rev it the voltage should climb to around 13.5 or better if everything is ok .

If doesn't shut her down . Pull the plug out of the case and set the meter to Ohms ground side to the case and the touch each of the pins one at a time from the stator , no reading is good this is checking for a grounded short if it the meter jumps you have a problem .

Next reg still unplugged , set the meter to AC voltage start the bike and carefully touch the meter leads to both pins ( don't let the leads touch the case while doing this !! ) if the stator is good it should be putting out 13 -17 volts at an idle and climb to 47 or so when revved . If it does stators good .

Check the plug & pins to make sure they making a good connection plug it in tight , check battery cables & grounds and try step 1 again . Voltage stays flat it's the regulator , sorry .
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
No , you don't polarize anything on these unless you've got the old generator & mechanical regulator .

2 tests you can do with 12v meter , 1st check the voltage of the battery sitting should be between 12.4 - 12.8 volts . Start the bike and rev it the voltage should climb to around 13.5 or better if everything is ok .

If doesn't shut her down . Pull the plug out of the case and set the meter to Ohms ground side to the case and the touch each of the pins one at a time from the stator , no reading is good this is checking for a grounded short if it the meter jumps you have a problem .

Next reg still unplugged , set the meter to AC voltage start the bike and carefully touch the meter leads to both pins ( don't let the leads touch the case while doing this !! ) if the stator is good it should be putting out 13 -17 volts at an idle and climb to 47 or so when revved . If it does stators good .

Check the plug & pins to make sure they making a good connection plug it in tight , check battery cables & grounds and try step 1 again . Voltage stays flat it's the regulator , sorry .
I just meant is one pin designated + and the other -? Then I'd have to connect it a certain way...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cadillac6661
I just meant is one pin designated + and the other -? Then I'd have to connect it a certain way...
No the stator produces AC voltage no DC , with ac it doesn't matter because the voltage switchs polarity many times a second .

The heavy lead from the regulator to the battery is positive + only .
 
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