Clutch pulling and shifting problems....help
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 269
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From: Chicago
Clutch pulling and shifting problems....help
I have a 1984 FXEF and it runs and drives fine, when stopped I can feel slight clutch drag when in gear. It is very hard to change gears and impossible when stopped and want to upshift from 1-st to neutral, it feels as the shifter froze. When I turn off the motor I can upshift to neutral just fine. Seems as clutch problem but would like to get some advice.
So far I have changed the plates for new ones and cleaned the old discs, it did not help at all, I have pulled plates and discs from another working shovel just to find out this did not do anything at all as well. Same problem, clutch pulls when in gear, the pull is not steady but kind of jerking forward and can not shift from 1-st to neutral unless I turn off the engine or am slightly rolling then I can change gears but not always easily.
I did all the adjustments according to HD manual. 1 1/32 distance between the springs, 13/16 distance between the arm and tranny top (I used the spark plug on the rubber hose for proper spacing on this.
I have noticed indeed that one side of the clutch does look like is moving out slower but I tough it was an optical illusion. Someone advised to use screws to even that out I will try it.
In addition my buddy has suggested that I should run oil in the primary as it looks to be wet clutch plates.
Here is something I never understood. The bike has oil pump circuit active between the primary and whenever I open it there is some oil inside but not as much that it bathes the clutch basket. My understanding is that the oil is circulating and only serves the purpose of oiling the primary chain. I saw some shovs having lotsa oil and some having just a bit. The clutch plates are solid, gray and red (the other set of new plates that I have) material.
Should I add engine oil to the primary so it covers the clutch or not???? How dry plates differ from the wet ones??
So far I have changed the plates for new ones and cleaned the old discs, it did not help at all, I have pulled plates and discs from another working shovel just to find out this did not do anything at all as well. Same problem, clutch pulls when in gear, the pull is not steady but kind of jerking forward and can not shift from 1-st to neutral unless I turn off the engine or am slightly rolling then I can change gears but not always easily.
I did all the adjustments according to HD manual. 1 1/32 distance between the springs, 13/16 distance between the arm and tranny top (I used the spark plug on the rubber hose for proper spacing on this.
I have noticed indeed that one side of the clutch does look like is moving out slower but I tough it was an optical illusion. Someone advised to use screws to even that out I will try it.
In addition my buddy has suggested that I should run oil in the primary as it looks to be wet clutch plates.
Here is something I never understood. The bike has oil pump circuit active between the primary and whenever I open it there is some oil inside but not as much that it bathes the clutch basket. My understanding is that the oil is circulating and only serves the purpose of oiling the primary chain. I saw some shovs having lotsa oil and some having just a bit. The clutch plates are solid, gray and red (the other set of new plates that I have) material.
Should I add engine oil to the primary so it covers the clutch or not???? How dry plates differ from the wet ones??
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,106
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Ok , what's the hub fingers look like ? Do they have grooves in them ? if so that's your problem , the plates want to ride in the grooves so they pull that way naturally . If not there's a couple cheap fixes for shovel clutch blues , first you need 2 items . One is called a Ramjett or adjustable clutch hub retainer , it's a nylon plate that replaces the little steel one under the springs on the fingers and you set it for no wobble or in & out play on the clutch shell will riding on the hub . The second is an aluminium pressure plate , Frisbee the old steel one they are all warped and eat the outer fiber plate . Spring adjustment is 4 or 5 threads showing on the studs .
As long as the hub is riding true on the mainshaft and the clutch shell doesn't wobble these should clean up the clutch issues .
For the oil system if it's stock leave it alone it will oil itself and the plates don't need an oil bath in a shovel , they don't like it . If the primary has been isolated to sealed away from the stock oil system with the bike on the kick stand only add enough primary oil to come up to the bottom of the clutch shell just touching it , that's all it needs to keep the chain lubed in those .
As long as the hub is riding true on the mainshaft and the clutch shell doesn't wobble these should clean up the clutch issues .
For the oil system if it's stock leave it alone it will oil itself and the plates don't need an oil bath in a shovel , they don't like it . If the primary has been isolated to sealed away from the stock oil system with the bike on the kick stand only add enough primary oil to come up to the bottom of the clutch shell just touching it , that's all it needs to keep the chain lubed in those .
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Aug 8, 2012 at 11:37 PM.
+1 on the ramjet. Sounds like you are in-between a good clutch and a bad clutch. If you've done everything Twisted says, a couple more things to consider would be:
1. Is your clutch lever hitting the grip before the clutch fully disingages? Re-adjust the cable.
2. Is there a possibility that your cable is "rubberband-ing on you? (broken strands in the casing) Replace the cable. Some of those cheap assed chinese cables use weak metals and not as many strands as a good American cable, and will streatch when you pull it in. I know the manual says leave 1/16" slack. but you may have to run it up near tight.
The manual is a starting point for proper adjustments. You may have to "fine tune" it from there.
1. Is your clutch lever hitting the grip before the clutch fully disingages? Re-adjust the cable.
2. Is there a possibility that your cable is "rubberband-ing on you? (broken strands in the casing) Replace the cable. Some of those cheap assed chinese cables use weak metals and not as many strands as a good American cable, and will streatch when you pull it in. I know the manual says leave 1/16" slack. but you may have to run it up near tight.
The manual is a starting point for proper adjustments. You may have to "fine tune" it from there.
Last edited by AlCherry; Aug 11, 2012 at 07:00 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 58
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From: Piqua, oHIo
My hub lining had a small chunk missing. I drilled the rivets out and replaced with a nylatron. Much smoother. Depending on what bearings you have...if stock, the nylatron is a perfect fit. If using the 50+ long bearings, then remove about a 1/16" from the ID of the nylatron, so everything fits nice.
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