Hydraulic lifter insert frozen? WTF?
Dude, I haven't found many stock lifters that would pass the 10 second test, even new. If you have to, just go to your local independent shop and have him grab four lifters out of the used parts box. You'll get them for next to nothing. Clean them up and install them.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
My question is: For what you're describing as a DRY hydraulic adjustment, after you bleed the air out of the INSERT assembly and put it back in the TAPPET roller, making sure the TAPPET roller is at the lowest point on the cam, you install the pushrod, screw the pushrod down until it:
a) just snugs into the lifter cup and then back it off?
or
b) screw it down all the way compressing the lifter piston and spring until it bottoms out in the lifter body and cant go any further?
Sorry, maybe I'm slow, but I just wanna make double sure. Thanks so much for the replies...
a) just snugs into the lifter cup and then back it off?
or
b) screw it down all the way compressing the lifter piston and spring until it bottoms out in the lifter body and cant go any further?
Sorry, maybe I'm slow, but I just wanna make double sure. Thanks so much for the replies...
Zero lash is when the cam is on the low point just after the valve closes, adjust the pushrod to the point you have "0" Lash or the pushrod fits snuggly with no up and down movement, then adjust the number of turns described in your manual to make the pushrod a little bit longer pushing the inner plunger into the lifter body.
I may be a lttle more **** than most on this but I like to feel the pushrod with every little adjustment to guarantee the point of "0" Lash. I am sure there is some room for error here but it isn't all that critical.
get your lifter down
push the pushrod firmly up into the rocker arm socket and adjust the pushrod so it just touches the lifter socket providing "0" Lash between the rocker arm and lifter sockets.
adjust the correct number of turns extending your pushrod and lock it down
I use 3 wrenches for this, kinda like holding chopsticks and if you have your tubes up out of the way you can manage. Not the position of the upper and lower pushrod parts. make a mental note and do everything you can to keep that lower part from turning up into the upper while you tighten the jam nut. The key is to keep the upper pushrod stable with one wrench and the lower pushrod stable with another wrench while you tighten the jam nut with the 3rd.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
After you adjust a pushrod, just in case it is standing proud with oil in the lifter, wait 5-10 minutes before your rotate the engine. I usually have the back wheel up the plugs out and the tranny in 4th gear and turn the rear wheel to bring the cylinder to Top Dead Center of the compression stroke. I don't know you or your level of understanding here so will go into detail;
4 strokes are intake, compression, fire, exhaust
so-you should see the exhaust lifter go up then down then immediatly see the intake lifter go up then down, put a finger on the spark plug hole and bump around to feel the compression stroke blowing your finger out. The motor is now in the compresssion stroke when the piston is going up, and at Top Dead Center the plug fires and the fire stroke pushes the piston back down. Both valves must be in the closed position or the low part of the cam during compression and fire. If you can stop around top dead center of the compression stroke you know the lifters are on the low part of the cam ready to adjust the pushrods. After you do, wait 10 minutes for the valve springs to push the oil out of the lifters and normalize. Now do the next cylinder, wait 10 minutes then start it up. Lifters will most likely clack a little but you should be ok for the next startup
4 strokes are intake, compression, fire, exhaust
so-you should see the exhaust lifter go up then down then immediatly see the intake lifter go up then down, put a finger on the spark plug hole and bump around to feel the compression stroke blowing your finger out. The motor is now in the compresssion stroke when the piston is going up, and at Top Dead Center the plug fires and the fire stroke pushes the piston back down. Both valves must be in the closed position or the low part of the cam during compression and fire. If you can stop around top dead center of the compression stroke you know the lifters are on the low part of the cam ready to adjust the pushrods. After you do, wait 10 minutes for the valve springs to push the oil out of the lifters and normalize. Now do the next cylinder, wait 10 minutes then start it up. Lifters will most likely clack a little but you should be ok for the next startup
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