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re-assembling a 74-flh

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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 02:27 PM
  #11  
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150-ish for a heavy duty kit
Just take the roight side cover off, put in a couple of parts, put the new cover with the Kick in and you ar done
 
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Old Nov 23, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
The frame to motor mount area needs to be clean of any paint/powdercoat. Needs to be metal to case contact;..

...
It also makes a better ground that way...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 05:46 AM
  #13  
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Looking at the skinny spaghetti gasket around the stator I don't have a lot of faith in its ability to seal even if everything is in perfect alignment. Any extra tips on making this old shoot oil tight. As far as clearing the paint off of the mating surfaces, ie. mounts, I will do that although HDs tolerances were not that tight on their frames back then if I have to shim the front motor mounts. A couple of mills of paint seams rather negligible in my opinion but I'm here for the expertise and you guys are it.

Thanks

Randy
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by cajun1957a
A couple of mills of paint seams rather negligible in my opinion but I'm here for the expertise and you guys are it.

The reason for removing paint/powdercoat from mounting surfaces, is because if you don't, it will wear down(flatten out) from vibration and cause your torque settings to loosen up...and can cause loose bolts or broken mounts.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 09:22 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by cajun1957a
Looking at the skinny spaghetti gasket around the stator I don't have a lot of faith in its ability to seal even if everything is in perfect alignment. Any extra tips on making this old shoot oil tight. As far as clearing the paint off of the mating surfaces, ie. mounts, I will do that although HDs tolerances were not that tight on their frames back then if I have to shim the front motor mounts. A couple of mills of paint seams rather negligible in my opinion but I'm here for the expertise and you guys are it.

Thanks

Randy
Well before mass production came about with machines, humankind built these things by hand and yet they were extremely well-built with very good fitment and attention to detail. Over time and miles of roads, use and such the mating surfaces wear down and at some point most likey have to be shimmed.

I have a 49EL I am slowly bringing back to life. The front motor mounts are shimmed useing brass shim stock (64 years of steel pounding aluminum takes it toll). I am having my tranny case repaired by Creekside Welding and Maching because one of the stud holes on my case pulled out and broke the case. At some point in its life, a tranny stud hole had been repaired on the adjacent side. Problem was it was not milled to match. Couple that with the fact that the tranny plate had a crack on the weld where the two plates are joined causing it to bow ever so slightly, meaning the case "rocked' ever so slightly. I never picked up on it, even after having the tranny in and out of the frame a couple of times.

It doesn't take much for old aluminum to weaken to the point that it gives up the ghost.

Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
The reason for removing paint/powdercoat from mounting surfaces, is because if you don't, it will wear down(flatten out) from vibration and cause your torque settings to loosen up...and can cause loose bolts or broken mounts.
What Tom says is spot on. You have a really nice build going on here. If you take care of the little things right up front, reliability on the back end will be ensured baring Murphys Law from leaving you broke down on the side of the road.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by cajun1957a
Looking at the skinny spaghetti gasket around the stator I don't have a lot of faith in its ability to seal even if everything is in perfect alignment. Any extra tips on making this old shoot oil tight. As far as clearing the paint off of the mating surfaces, ie. mounts, I will do that although HDs tolerances were not that tight on their frames back then if I have to shim the front motor mounts. A couple of mills of paint seams rather negligible in my opinion but I'm here for the expertise and you guys are it.

Thanks

Randy
I have used a little bit of sealer, but mainly to keep it in place during assembly... never leaked from there
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 01:12 PM
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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Is there any trick to taking the sprocket off the transmission. I just noticed a broken tooth so I best be replacing it? What kind of tool do I need to break it loose? Left hand thread right?

randy
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 03:47 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cajun1957a
Is there any trick to taking the sprocket off the transmission. I just noticed a broken tooth so I best be replacing it? What kind of tool do I need to break it loose? Left hand thread right?

randy
Yes it is a left hand thread, I have a deep socket that was made for it. I use an impact driver to spin it loose. You may have to put the chain on it and lock the back wheel to keep it from spinning. When you are building a tranny you can lock it in 2 gears at the same time and spin it loose or tighten it, not an option when it is together.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 04:38 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
The frame to motor mount area needs to be clean of any paint/powdercoat. Needs to be metal to case contact; it is the only way to ensure your motor is correctly fit to the frame.
This is VERY important!
 
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