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has anyone come up with a belt tensioner for a primo rivera one and a half inch belt using a stock inner and outer primary from what ive heard iits supposed to have a half to three quarter of an inch of up and down motion well mines more and its rubbing on the inners bosses a bit so i was gonna install a modified hopefully a stock nylon shoe ?anyone tried this before ?
Plan A should be sourcing out a shorter belt. I've run several over the years and never had a problem locating the correct length belt. I've never heard anything good about the idlers...
And just a FYI; when running a belt in a original chain primary, you need to modify the lower front bolt & mount on the inner primary for belt clearance. Notice the cut away on this belt drive Sturgis primary:
Plan A should be sourcing out a shorter belt. I've run several over the years and never had a problem locating the correct length belt. I've never heard anything good about the idlers...
And just a FYI; when running a belt in a original chain primary, you need to modify the lower front bolt & mount on the inner primary for belt clearance. Notice the cut away on this belt drive Sturgis primary:
Well if you run the idler system it's the upper boss that gets the grinding to clear not the lower just an FYI I've been running one of those for a couple decades now .................
There's good & bad both on the idler setup and I've blown enough belts with both styles to tell you now belt life is about the same both ways running the 11mm belts . Free play cold set about 5/8" and run it 50 to 100 miles and then check it hot , if you still have a bit of play your good belts tight drop it one notch on the adjuster plate , this is for a new belt and they do stretch a bit with wear so check it again in a few hundred miles .
Up side to the idler system is a few modifications like trimming the outer guide on the front pulley and using #10 screws to hold it on and grinding a few bosses around the clutch hub for clearance you can change a blown belt on the side of the road without having to pull the clutch hub , done mine a few times over the years , never leave home without a spare belt in the tool bag ..
Other up side is the idler belt is it's also the cheapest one to replace I get them from Jireh for $60 a pop verse the usual $100 -$120
I've been running one of those for a couple decades now .................
There's good & bad both on the idler setup and I've blown enough belts with both styles to tell you now belt life is about the same both ways running the 11mm belts .
When was the last time you broke a belt on a non-idler setup? A couple decades ago...?
Belt technology has advanced a fair bit in the last couple decades; tough to find a modified shovelhead that'll break a newer belt that hasn't got something else going on.
Finding the correct length belt is a matter of a phone call.
When was the last time you broke a belt on a non-idler setup? A couple decades ago...?
Belt technology has advanced a fair bit in the last couple decades; tough to find a modified shovelhead that'll break a newer belt that hasn't got something else going on.
Finding the correct length belt is a matter of a phone call.
Only non idler system I've run in the last 15yrs I pulled , didn't like the noise from their clutch design and the parts where wearing at a rate that didn't suggest longevity on top of the fact it ate 2 belts in a year . One tooth difference made it either to tight or too loose without the old routing out the front mounting holes to slide the whole primary around .
I pop a belt every couple years or less with the idler system and there's no rhyme nor reason when and under what conditions they let go , had them go hitting the starter button to casually cruising at highway speeds but it put up with smoking burn offs , they go when they go goomer doesn't matter if it's a tired 74" or a hotrod 93" and there's a difference between breaking a belt and having one shred from the usual reasons . Correct length belt is what that particular combination of pulleys , tooth size & profile and center length was designed for by the manufacturer and they are all different .
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