Solid lifters, oil lines, etc: 82 FXRS
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
Likes: 23
Re-set the pushrods, maybe a little on the tight side
Bike runs OK, just noisy... I think noisier that before
I set them on the tight side because previously 2 pushrods got a little loose.
Will check again tomorrow to see how they are now
The bike died on me 3 times... looks like a gas issue (have to check the petcock.. might me dirty)
all 3 times it stopped running (1 interstate, 1 secondary road, both about 70mph), so I coasted. I swapped to Reserve while coasting but nothing. Waited 30 seconds and the bike restarted.
Carb is a Super E, idle screw 1.5-1.75 turns open. If close it a littel bit the bike dies.
Bike idles about 1000rpm and te only way to lower it is closing the idle screw because the idle speed screw is not pushing on the throttle leverage.
Spark plugs are clean, pretty light brown
Bike runs OK, just noisy... I think noisier that before
I set them on the tight side because previously 2 pushrods got a little loose.
Will check again tomorrow to see how they are now
The bike died on me 3 times... looks like a gas issue (have to check the petcock.. might me dirty)
all 3 times it stopped running (1 interstate, 1 secondary road, both about 70mph), so I coasted. I swapped to Reserve while coasting but nothing. Waited 30 seconds and the bike restarted.
Carb is a Super E, idle screw 1.5-1.75 turns open. If close it a littel bit the bike dies.
Bike idles about 1000rpm and te only way to lower it is closing the idle screw because the idle speed screw is not pushing on the throttle leverage.
Spark plugs are clean, pretty light brown
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
Likes: 23
Update:
Cleaned the petcock screen and it was dirty.
Run the bike for a couple of days and it was fine.
I had 2 people lestening to it and said it sounds just like solids
With peace of mind run the bike for another day..... after 20 miles on Interstate right by my exit the bike started runing on 1 cylinder, so I coasted to the exit.
Got it to start again on one, the front cylinder was noisy as a loose pushrod. Swapped plug wires, same thing. It would run on the read with or withour the front plug wire.
After 5 minutes for some reason the front started firing but weak... not a lot of air from the front exhaust.
Rode home at 2000 rpm, bike sputhered a little but made it.
Looked at the bike today when cold. Front pushrods turned freely at the lowest position but no evident vertical movement. Adjusted those.
The rear were better but while trying to get one loose, the nut fricking broke.
My solid pushrod kit has a full nut to adjust the tappet, not a split one like the OEM pushrods. Thread size is the same 9/32 x 32.
I can't find a nut like that anywhere... unless I use an OEM split nut instead. Would that work?
Cleaned the petcock screen and it was dirty.
Run the bike for a couple of days and it was fine.
I had 2 people lestening to it and said it sounds just like solids
With peace of mind run the bike for another day..... after 20 miles on Interstate right by my exit the bike started runing on 1 cylinder, so I coasted to the exit.
Got it to start again on one, the front cylinder was noisy as a loose pushrod. Swapped plug wires, same thing. It would run on the read with or withour the front plug wire.
After 5 minutes for some reason the front started firing but weak... not a lot of air from the front exhaust.
Rode home at 2000 rpm, bike sputhered a little but made it.
Looked at the bike today when cold. Front pushrods turned freely at the lowest position but no evident vertical movement. Adjusted those.
The rear were better but while trying to get one loose, the nut fricking broke.
My solid pushrod kit has a full nut to adjust the tappet, not a split one like the OEM pushrods. Thread size is the same 9/32 x 32.
I can't find a nut like that anywhere... unless I use an OEM split nut instead. Would that work?
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
Likes: 23
well.. it's been a while
Long story short, bike starting running on one cylinder, noisy top front cylinder,made it home.
Just pulled the heads off, cylinders, nose cone and this is what I got:
1-front piston is missing a piece. Rear looks fine. Cylinders look fine
2-rocker boxes and nose cone are aftermaket chrome parts.
3-Top end: cleaner than I expected. There was a little bit of metal trapped under a valve. Rocker covers have been recessed for valve clearance I think, so work has been done to the bike. Rocker arms are tight... no axial slack at all... they don't rock freely but I have to pull and push to move them
4-Cam: it's got a Sifton 104
5-Aftermarket nose cone: there was oil an metal chunks in the ignition area.. previous owner drilled a bigger holr for the ignition cable and left metal shavings inside.
6-Breather gear: already updated to metal.
Questions:
-shouldn't rocker arms have a little slack?
-I need a new cam and top end have been reworked. any idea what valves those are? What cam is suggested here?
-Breather: metal with 2 round oil holes. I already had a new updated one (S&S) with one round and one longer hole. Is this better? Both are the same height so I will use the same shim I had before.
Long story short, bike starting running on one cylinder, noisy top front cylinder,made it home.
Just pulled the heads off, cylinders, nose cone and this is what I got:
1-front piston is missing a piece. Rear looks fine. Cylinders look fine
2-rocker boxes and nose cone are aftermaket chrome parts.
3-Top end: cleaner than I expected. There was a little bit of metal trapped under a valve. Rocker covers have been recessed for valve clearance I think, so work has been done to the bike. Rocker arms are tight... no axial slack at all... they don't rock freely but I have to pull and push to move them
4-Cam: it's got a Sifton 104
5-Aftermarket nose cone: there was oil an metal chunks in the ignition area.. previous owner drilled a bigger holr for the ignition cable and left metal shavings inside.
6-Breather gear: already updated to metal.
Questions:
-shouldn't rocker arms have a little slack?
-I need a new cam and top end have been reworked. any idea what valves those are? What cam is suggested here?
-Breather: metal with 2 round oil holes. I already had a new updated one (S&S) with one round and one longer hole. Is this better? Both are the same height so I will use the same shim I had before.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,306
Likes: 5
From: Bellville, Tx
A good setup for drag racing!
That engine has quite a history! The long duration cam, oversize valve springs, and solid lifters reads as a high HP at high RPM build. Bad cam and rollers already mentioned. I notice the cam seal is leaking into the points, The general wear indicates lots of miles or lots of throttle. Can't tell for sure but it looks like the cylinders are glazed. Pistons relieved for oversize valve clearance.
Use good gaskets and seals all around and you should be good to go. I've did the top end on the '80 FLT I had and it wasn't rocket science. Keep it clean and well oiled going together, use the same care you would when cleaning a gun.
Great project, I envy you, wish I still had the FLT.
Use good gaskets and seals all around and you should be good to go. I've did the top end on the '80 FLT I had and it wasn't rocket science. Keep it clean and well oiled going together, use the same care you would when cleaning a gun.
Great project, I envy you, wish I still had the FLT.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
Likes: 23
That engine has quite a history! The long duration cam, oversize valve springs, and solid lifters reads as a high HP at high RPM build. Bad cam and rollers already mentioned. I notice the cam seal is leaking into the points, The general wear indicates lots of miles or lots of throttle. Can't tell for sure but it looks like the cylinders are glazed. Pistons relieved for oversize valve clearance.
Use good gaskets and seals all around and you should be good to go. I've did the top end on the '80 FLT I had and it wasn't rocket science.
Use good gaskets and seals all around and you should be good to go. I've did the top end on the '80 FLT I had and it wasn't rocket science.
Yes, the seal leaks into the i gnition (it's a dyna S btw)
Also the # I could read on the flywheel are PB3533... so not sure that's been messed with as well.
One more thing... the window where the breather gear goes i nto have been opened I think.. picture attached:
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