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The Dyno RoomA special room dedicated for Dyno tuning products, troubleshooting and results. All Gearheads and Dyno Operators are welcome here as well as the guys that are new to tuning. Please see the special rules for this section before posting.
Spoke to the shop that ran my bike last night, and the conversation started with "we had a lot of problems with your bike".
They said is tuned perfectly, is running great, but the data link to the dyno was the problem. Said the tach was jumping all over the place on their PC, but was normal on the bike and the PV. So they can't produce a report until they get it sorted out. They said DynoJet knows about the issue, and it doesn't happen on all 2016's, only some. So I'm the lucky one.
Said they will have to run it again to get the printout once its sorted out...
Picking it up in a couple of hours.
It's a 2016 Low Rider S FYI - SE 110ci based I believe, on the CVO bikes.
There can be several problems that can come up when trying to get a tach signal. The carbon in the pick up is brittle. Dropping them can cause them to crack. Stepping on the wires can also screw them up.
Sometimes 2 pick ups are needed on the secondary side of the coil. If you have aftermarket plug wire, or even SE plug wires. These can also cause problems. Having spare stock wires helps. Zip tying the clamps does help sometimes if the wire is on the fat side.
Primary side of the coil is a better, cleaner signal, but needs a different style of cable to get. Some bikes are easy to find this wire and on some of the older bikes. It is hard to find room for it. It is easier on a dyna but the shielding need to be cut back a bit.
Do you know how they are trying to get your signal?
There can be several problems that can come up when trying to get a tach signal. The carbon in the pick up is brittle. Dropping them can cause them to crack. Stepping on the wires can also screw them up.
Sometimes 2 pick ups are needed on the secondary side of the coil. If you have aftermarket plug wire, or even SE plug wires. These can also cause problems. Having spare stock wires helps. Zip tying the clamps does help sometimes if the wire is on the fat side.
Primary side of the coil is a better, cleaner signal, but needs a different style of cable to get. Some bikes are easy to find this wire and on some of the older bikes. It is hard to find room for it. It is easier on a dyna but the shielding need to be cut back a bit.
Do you know how they are trying to get your signal?
So here is where I am: Picked up the bike today. Shop said they are having problems with some of the 2016 bikes. No problem with their equipment and on other bikes... And they couldn't produce a printout of my tune, but once they sorted it out they'd re-run it and produce a printout. But even so now I won't ever have a "before"... Yay.
AND
Even though I bought a new license for my PV, they couldn't get it to work with my bike (though I have it married and have uploaded a few tunes no problem) and had to buy another "tune license" from Dynojet. I argued that I had already bought a license, used it and had no problems. They stood fast, saying it either wasn't the right license, or for whatever reason couldn't get it to work, so they bought one and added $199 to the bill. Lovely. My $425 tune just turned into $625.
AND
I still have decel popping and the bike doesn't feel any better then when I brought it in.
SO
I called Dynojet and they basically called shenanigans on the shop. Said one license is all you need, and If I successfully loaded a tune, the PV works with my bike. I asked then to call the shop and talk to them about it, which they did, to no immediate avail. Dynojet asked me to send them a diag file from my PV. They also said one way or another they would take care of me.
So I looked at the new "autotuneXX.pvt" file i saw on my PV and saw the only changes from the stock HD tune that I saved when I married the PV was the below:
Rear cyl delta from stock tune:
Front cyl delta from stock:
And the AFR table was EXACTLY the same as stock:
I don't know enough about this, but I have a strong suspicion that beyond the license issue, I was screwed...
Can anyone with real experience with this have a look and tell me what they think about this? And I can post any other tables you need to see.
Just grab a canned map from Dynojet, run a few auto tune sessions and be done with it.
Not sure I agree with that. A proper dyno tune is a huge improvement over a canned map auto tuned using narrowband O2 sensors. As long as it's done right.
Not sure I agree with that. A proper dyno tune is a huge improvement over a canned map auto tuned using narrowband O2 sensors. As long as it's done right.
NB 02 sensors while running auto tune are more than sufficient in measuring how the engine breaths.
The only thing you don't get is correction and verification outside of their range during normal riding.
Don't get me wrong I understand your concern but finding someone to do a good or really good tune are few and far between.
Looking at the info you posted it looks like they just dialed in your VEs (something that auto tune does) and left the fuel alone.
Did they make any changes to your timing?
NB 02 sensors while running auto tune are more than sufficient in measuring how the engine breaths.
The only thing you don't get is correction and verification outside of their range during normal riding.
Don't get me wrong I understand your concern but finding someone to do a good or really good tune are few and far between.
Looking at the info you posted it looks like they just dialed in your VEs (something that auto tune does) and left the fuel alone.
Did they make any changes to your timing?
No, the only changes were the two ve tables and resetting the afm tables to the default - while I was waiting for the dyno, I lowered them a bit to richen it up a bit - now they are back to what HD/EPA set them to stock. That's another thread here...
No, the only changes were the two ve tables and resetting the afm tables to the default - while I was waiting for the dyno, I lowered them a bit to richen it up a bit - now they are back to what HD/EPA set them to stock. That's another thread here...
That sucks.
Out here in CA I don't think anyone will modify a tune on late model bikes beyond what the state would allow.
I'd love to take mine in and have it done but I think I'll just get my stock map back with the VEs adjusted.
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Dyno issues
