Thank you for that. I thought I would have to cut wires and put on my own crimp connectors. Ordered the sensor today on Amazon and will report back what I find. Cross referenced this one several different ways and I'm convinced it's the right one regardless of what amazon thinks (happens frequently).

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The only difference is in the terminal ends. For your 95, don't you need all three wires to have male pin connectors?

 

That's why I did so much cross reference work. The connector to my sensor has female for black and green and male for red. The fiche for 1995 shows both 32400-80A and 32404-90 sensors having all male pins. So we'll see what I get... pot-luck possibly! And I have a 7-pin D connection at the ignition module when most references (except my service manual) say a 1995 should have the 8-pin Deutsch.

I'm also realizing and remembering that I probably have a California bike. I found a white, three wire connector on the frame just behind the main connector in the electric panel that gets an extra white wire from the module/coil. This might be the California "trap door circuit", but I won't know until I get back home this weekend.

On another note, I'm confused about the ignition vibration test. Step B says, "Disconnect white wire at coil terminal (not module feed)." Well, that's the only wire to the coil terminal. I'm assuming I need to disconnect the white wire coming into the main connector to bypass the ignition circuit and make a direct battery connection.


This is turning into an ignition thread instead of carb, but there is still carb work to be done.

 

Did you ever change the jets out?

 

It's taking awhile for the jets to arrive but I should have everything for this weekend to get the carb as right as I can to continue with the ignition testing. Thanks for checking back.

 

If it's not too late mark the V in the cam sensor in the nosecone before you remove the old cam sensor. Replacing the new one should get you dead on or real close if you line it back up.

 

It's not too late as I'm still waiting for the sensor to arrive. I also ordered a new VOES just for kicks. Further investigation tells me that I do have a modified California bike as I found the four pin connector for the "trap door circuit" just above the manifold next to the VOES. I'll report back on the ignition work next week. Meanwhile, I made some changes to the carb by installing a new emulsion tube, main jet, pilot jet, needle jet, and jet needle. I also replaced the mixture screw packing kit. I didn't fire it up yet as I was tired and had other things to do. I'll plan a work day when the sensor arrives to come to a resolution all at once.

I ordered a Slinger Air Werkes SAW-007 rejet kit, which is available from several vendors. The kit is just Keihin OE parts with a brief instruction sheet. It includes 45 and 48 pilot jet, 180 and 185 main jet, and a NOKG needle, which is almost identical to the N65C needle except that the N65C is slightly shorter. The instructions say to use the 45 pilot with the new needle on a stock engine, the 45/180/needle for modified air cleaner and exhaust, and the 48/185/needle for air cleaner/exhaust/cam. I replaced my 45/175/needle with the kit 45/180/needle.

I can't be sure, but I may have had a Dynojet emulsion tube and 175 main jet in there. It was very different from the OE tube: very thick walled with only two holes compared to I think 12 holes in the OE tube. The main jet head recessed into the top of the tube whereas the OE main jet head stopped flush with the top of the emulsion tube. I replaced the needle jet and I did note there was a difference in the surface that mates to the end of the emulsion tube, so I'm glad I changed it.

The new mixture screw packing kit was Cycle Pro brand. The spring was a little longer and I noted that it was harder to turn the screw; a good thing, I think. I saw the tip of the screw come through the hole in the carb body on light seating, then I backed it out three turns to start my tuning.

 

Mail ran today after my last post, bringing the sensor and VOES. The new sensor still "fails" the resistance test mentioned earlier, so I'm not convinced the test is valid. This is not one of the troubleshooting tests in my service manual anyway. The sensor I ordered does have the correct pin-out for my bike: red male, green and black female. Before I change the sensor, I will probably check the timing with the current one, since I bought a timing light and inspection plug. Either way, I should be able to figure it out.

 

I'm encouraged by the results I got today. To recap what I've done since the last effort:

• replaced old, drilled slide with OE slide; no modification
• new accelerator diaphragm
• new packing kit for mixture screw (same screw, though)
• new 45 pilot to replace old 45 pilot
• new OE emulsion tube to replace unidentified tube
• new 180 main jet to replace 175
• new NOKG needle, unshimed, to replace unidentified adjustable needle
• new needle jet

So not a total rebuild, but replaced the major components. The bike ran stronger and better than I've seen before. There was no sputtering or weakness in the low gears up to 4000rpm, which tells me that the old setup was too lean, although I don't understand the overly rich rear cylinder I've seen up to now.

The mixture screw almost makes the engine bog down a little when it's fully seated. I have it at 1.5 turns out. I did spray carb cleaner on the intakes after the bike was warm and BOTH bogged down when I sprayed on the bottoms of the clamps, so I'm leaking on both intakes even though I replaced the seals. I'll have to figure out the trick of getting the manifold to seal properly.

No changes to the ignition yet, though I've taken it apart to test several times. I'll check the timing once I get the manifold sealed. Here's what I got after about 15 miles:

 

glad to hear she's purring like a......

ride safe brother....

Just so you know, Evo's tend to run a little richer on the rear cylinder.... Don't ask why..... They just do.....