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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
they are nice product,no argument there,just think their not needed,after 1000`s of motors worked on here,ive never seen a failure (besides normal wear) with OEM tensioners
When I talked to a zippers dealer (not zipper direct) they sold me on it by indicating it can hold tension better than stock under high hp/tq. Wasn't about failure of the OEM unit. Was more so about this is stronger and can hold timing better than OEM because of the dual pistons.
I consider that an alternative to going gear drive. Especially since 99% of us can't due to runout spec.
Not trying to argue. Without hard data showing the timing not holding steady on an OEM unit vs the zippers its all hearsay...
When I talked to a zippers dealer (not zipper direct) they sold me on it by indicating it can hold tension better than stock under high hp/tq. Wasn't about failure of the OEM unit. Was more so about this is stronger and can hold timing better than OEM because of the dual pistons.
I consider that an alternative to going gear drive. Especially since 99% of us can't due to runout spec.
Not trying to argue. Without hard data showing the timing not holding steady on an OEM unit vs the zippers its all hearsay...
Since the tensioner is really on the slack side, I don't see how the issue could be more than about 1/2 a degree difference.. It would be hard to measure but you can simply remove the tensioner and see how many degrees the cam will rotate from the slack in the chain..
BTW here is the original tensioner with about 35K on it.. 20K with high lift springs and various cams..
Add:
Notice that it had the divots just like the early ones got.. I suspect that the chain was slapping the tensioner some.. How many degrees? don't know.. Run-out on the crank was 0.003".
Last edited by Max Headflow; Jun 23, 2017 at 06:22 PM.
Reason: Add
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