Sheared my rear pulley bolts off today
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 87
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From: DFW
Well my wrench showed up so I took the wheel off. It's trashed but the Avon tire is fine at least. Belt surprisingly looks ok as well. Saw some very small marks on it, but don't know if it's related.
Swingarm is pretty gouged and scraped up. Nothing looks "structural" but will probably replace axle block and fastener for the belt guard. Any suggestions on the repair? What thinking of cleaning it up with a dremel and stone, then using primer/black paint via touch up brushes.
Tried getting a hold of the indy who did the work and haven't had any luck. Anyways, here are some pics.
Swingarm is pretty gouged and scraped up. Nothing looks "structural" but will probably replace axle block and fastener for the belt guard. Any suggestions on the repair? What thinking of cleaning it up with a dremel and stone, then using primer/black paint via touch up brushes.
Tried getting a hold of the indy who did the work and haven't had any luck. Anyways, here are some pics.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,830
Likes: 7,968
From: poway
Well my wrench showed up so I took the wheel off. It's trashed but the Avon tire is fine at least. Belt surprisingly looks ok as well. Saw some very small marks on it, but don't know if it's related.
Swingarm is pretty gouged and scraped up. Nothing looks "structural" but will probably replace axle block and fastener for the belt guard. Any suggestions on the repair? What thinking of cleaning it up with a dremel and stone, then using primer/black paint via touch up brushes.
Tried getting a hold of the indy who did the work and haven't had any luck. Anyways, here are some pics.
Swingarm is pretty gouged and scraped up. Nothing looks "structural" but will probably replace axle block and fastener for the belt guard. Any suggestions on the repair? What thinking of cleaning it up with a dremel and stone, then using primer/black paint via touch up brushes.
Tried getting a hold of the indy who did the work and haven't had any luck. Anyways, here are some pics.
The pulley is toast but you might be able to save the wheel.. Find someone to turn the pulley seat on the wheel hub and check the thread fit with new bolts.
The issue with this failure wasn't the second use of bolts or the fail to loctite. It was due to the idiots that installed the wheels and failed to clean the PC of the mating surfaces for the hub / pulley / bolt as I stated above.. PC is slippery can allow surfaces do slide.. The stuff is 3 - 5 thou thick. Clamp it and let it rub. It will ooze out, you loose that 9 to 15 thou clamping force. Bolt marking looking for washer spin is too late. Especially since all the bolts would come loose at once.
Even some after market "do dad" that keeps the bolt from spinning ain't gonna do chit.
One thing for sure.. You won't be using the old bolts on this repair even tho it would be the 3rd use..
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 20
From: Ventura, CA
Had the same thing happen, except I only sheared one bolt and it was because it hit the swing arm. Was able to tighten it up and head back. I reused bolts after powdercoat, cant recal if I used loctite or not. My hub was fine, my threads were fine, chased them anyways, got new bolts, a used pulley, loctite the bolts in, seems to be doing well.
I would suggest marking the bolts/washers with lines like suggested earlier. Once loctite hardens, it is my understanding that moving it (loosening or tightening) will break that bond and can work its way out, just something to think about.
My swing arm definitely got scarred from the bolt swing around. Dug a deep trench in front of the adjuster, and mangled the back part. After looking at options (mine is an 03 so harder to find parts), all the used ones on ebay had **** coating and were what I considered to be too expensive. So I buckled down and fixed mine. Cut windows where the damage was, made plates to fit the windows, welded it up, ground the welds down, painted er up and ran it! I'm happy with it.
I would suggest marking the bolts/washers with lines like suggested earlier. Once loctite hardens, it is my understanding that moving it (loosening or tightening) will break that bond and can work its way out, just something to think about.
My swing arm definitely got scarred from the bolt swing around. Dug a deep trench in front of the adjuster, and mangled the back part. After looking at options (mine is an 03 so harder to find parts), all the used ones on ebay had **** coating and were what I considered to be too expensive. So I buckled down and fixed mine. Cut windows where the damage was, made plates to fit the windows, welded it up, ground the welds down, painted er up and ran it! I'm happy with it.
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Joined: May 2015
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From: DFW
The pulley is toast but you might be able to save the wheel.. Find someone to turn the pulley seat on the wheel hub and check the thread fit with new bolts.
The issue with this failure wasn't the second use of bolts or the fail to loctite. It was due to the idiots that installed the wheels and failed to clean the PC of the mating surfaces for the hub / pulley / bolt as I stated above.. PC is slippery can allow surfaces do slide.. The stuff is 3 - 5 thou thick. Clamp it and let it rub. It will ooze out, you loose that 9 to 15 thou clamping force. Bolt marking looking for washer spin is too late. Especially since all the bolts would come loose at once.
Even some after market "do dad" that keeps the bolt from spinning ain't gonna do chit.
One thing for sure.. You won't be using the old bolts on this repair even tho it would be the 3rd use..
The issue with this failure wasn't the second use of bolts or the fail to loctite. It was due to the idiots that installed the wheels and failed to clean the PC of the mating surfaces for the hub / pulley / bolt as I stated above.. PC is slippery can allow surfaces do slide.. The stuff is 3 - 5 thou thick. Clamp it and let it rub. It will ooze out, you loose that 9 to 15 thou clamping force. Bolt marking looking for washer spin is too late. Especially since all the bolts would come loose at once.
Even some after market "do dad" that keeps the bolt from spinning ain't gonna do chit.
One thing for sure.. You won't be using the old bolts on this repair even tho it would be the 3rd use..
I found a take off rear rear wheel for $325. I think I'll just go that route. If that doesn't pan out, then I'll check out some machine shops.
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
Good point on the mating surfaces. I'm not sure if the wheel can be salvaged or if it's worth doing so. Might be hard to tell from the pics but a lot of the material is missing. Assuming a good shop could remove broken fasteners, machine face flat, and rethread, I might be halfway to a replacement dollar wise.
I found a take off rear rear wheel for $325. I think I'll just go that route. If that doesn't pan out, then I'll check out some machine shops.
Replace it.. The ring that centers the pulley is broken off. I figure you should be able to get a take off for about $100. That's what I paid for an 18 inch street-glide front.. Stock wheels should be cheap..
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,174
Likes: 2,480
From: Nor Cal
Deals are always around, but 16x5 Rears are a bit harder to come by...and then there's the "I need it now " factor
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 87
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From: DFW
Yea I'm having a hell of a time finding Fat Bob wheels. Actually doing a 4 hour round trip to get this one. I haven't found anything cheaper once shipping was figured in.
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