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[QUOTE=Hoyt 1911A1;17169300]If he wants to keep his CB and controls he may want to check into getting preamp outputs installed by Iron Cross like I did. It gives cleaner sound and allows you to run amps that may not have speaker level inputs. Here is a pic of my 2010 with the CB underneath along with noise filters, GPS power supply, change of underwear, spare socks..]QUOTE
LOL, NICE! Thanks for the info and the pic Hoyt. It's the only pic I've seen showing the cb mount relocated underneath the HU. What amp mount is that in the picture?
Last edited by Hammertime1978; Mar 10, 2018 at 10:51 PM.
The CB module has velcro attached to it to hold it still but one of those big half inch wide cable ties wrapped around the mount to secure it. I found through trial and error that in some cases just velcro or wire ties didn't work as good as both combined.
I put the soft side of the velcro on the bottom of the amp towards the end of the mock up process. I drilled a couple of extra holes in the bracket to allow two wire ties on each side to pull downwards on the amp to help the velcro out as seen here:
I did away with those big wire ties because they tended to pull the amp forward. The four ties on the side and velcro have proven to be secure enough.
As others have mentioned you will need to trim away a little bit of the speedo and tach mounts with wire cutters in order for that amp to slide all the way back like it needs to. I installed the mount and slid the amp in to see where it was hitting, trimmed a bit, put it back in and checked again and so on. Here is a pic of the tray by itself:
The amp will need to be slid all the way back to those little rubber bumpers in order for the fairing cap to go back on. Those oval slots on the side of the bracket are good for tying wires to. In the above pic the wires are nowhere near where they need to be in order to get the cap back on. The first one gives a good idea where they need to be. You can remove the headlight from the cap in order to feel around where stuff it touching. The big wiring bundle on top in front of the speedo and tach needs special attention. Also the way I had the amp turned (in order to allow for other wiring issues I had going on) in order to adjust the rear speaker gain the amp has to be slid forward to clear the frame rails. If you reversed it then the front would be a problem most likely.
To get the wires through I straightened out a coat hanger, taped the wires to the end of it, wiped the whole thing down with Armor All (except the area where I knew I would have to re-tape wires to for the other side) and slid them through the factory harness sleeve:
At some point I plan to create a new thread detailing all the steps I went through in case it may be of help to others. This amp is a powerhouse considering how little it costs. Now if my time was worth anything it would have been cheaper to by the $800 focal amp. However with the money saved I bought two pairs of AD Designs Cx621 speakers and all the mounting hardware needed for them.
Last edited by Hoyt 1911A1; Mar 11, 2018 at 11:19 AM.
Hoyt; use 100% pure silicone to adhesive it to the tray. Just lightly rough up both sides with sandpaper/clean with rubbing alcohol and use several generous lines/dabs of silicone. Been doing this for years and after about 200 installs with silicone Ive never had one fail! Just make sure you leave air gaps between dabs/lines for it to fully cure.
Easily removed if need be by cutting the putter perimeter of silicone while pulling them apart.
The CB module has velcro attached to it to hold it still but one of those big half inch wide cable ties wrapped around the mount to secure it. I found through trial and error that in some cases just velcro or wire ties didn't work as good as both combined.
I put the soft side of the velcro on the bottom of the amp towards the end of the mock up process. I drilled a couple of extra holes in the bracket to allow two wire ties on each side to pull downwards on the amp to help the velcro out as seen here:
I did away with those big wire ties because they tended to pull the amp forward. The four ties on the side and velcro have proven to be secure enough.
As others have mentioned you will need to trim away a little bit of the speedo and tach mounts with wire cutters in order for that amp to slide all the way back like it needs to. I installed the mount and slid the amp in to see where it was hitting, trimmed a bit, put it back in and checked again and so on. Here is a pic of the tray by itself:
The amp will need to be slid all the way back to those little rubber bumpers in order for the fairing cap to go back on. Those oval slots on the side of the bracket are good for tying wires to. In the above pic the wires are nowhere near where they need to be in order to get the cap back on. The first one gives a good idea where they need to be. You can remove the headlight from the cap in order to feel around where stuff it touching. The big wiring bundle on top in front of the speedo and tach needs special attention. Also the way I had the amp turned (in order to allow for other wiring issues I had going on) in order to adjust the rear speaker gain the amp has to be slid forward to clear the frame rails. If you reversed it then the front would be a problem most likely.
To get the wires through I straightened out a coat hanger, taped the wires to the end of it, wiped the whole thing down with Armor All (except the area where I knew I would have to re-tape wires to for the other side) and slid them through the factory harness sleeve:
At some point I plan to create a new thread detailing all the steps I went through in case it may be of help to others. This amp is a powerhouse considering how little it costs. Now if my time was worth anything it would have been cheaper to by the $800 focal amp. However with the money saved I bought two pairs of AD Designs Cx621 speakers and all the mounting hardware needed for them.
Wow Hoyt, GREAT tutorial and great pics! Good to know that it is doable with a little bit of work. Thanks!
Hoyt; use 100% pure silicone to adhesive it to the tray. Just lightly rough up both sides with sandpaper/clean with rubbing alcohol and use several generous lines/dabs of silicone. Been doing this for years and after about 200 installs with silicone I’ve never had one fail! Just make sure you leave air gaps between dabs/lines for it to fully cure.
Easily removed if need be by cutting the putter perimeter of silicone while pulling them apart.
That sounds like a good idea if the item is going to stay put. In this case though I had to mount it, try stuff, take it out, re-mount it several times to get things the way I wanted them. Also the ears of this amp actually touch the frame rails before the bottom contacts the mounting plate on my bike. That velcro filled in the gap nicely.
This stuff holds like a vise. I have used it in other applications and never let me down. I clean area with denatured alcohol and adhesive never fails. Doing my first amp install but have no reason to expect any different. After I set the amp in I needed a screw driver to break it loose.
That looks sort of like what I used Stache. It was Velco name brand. The issue I had wasn't that it would come loose. Because I was using the preamp inputs on the PN4.1000d I only had about 1/4 inch of clearance before something could short out. The Velcro allowed just a little bit of movement that I couldn't afford so I used the wire ties on the side to prevent that movement. Here is a photo of the clearance on the preamp side:
You notice that on the front channel plugs there isn't enough room to plug a factory RCA jack into. I had to create this:
In order to connect that channel. The power and speaker wires had about the same amount of clearance so I couldn't afford any movement. If someone were to use the speaker level inputs then there would be much more clearance and things wouldn't be as tricky.
Getting this amp into pre-Rushmore bikes takes a little doing sometimes but the payoff is pretty good for the money.
Any reason when I'm installing that amp because of the those clearance issues with RCA'S, I couldn't just cut a notch out of that brace with a dremel?
I put the amp in the position that I wanted it. Then took a pair of Chanel locks to the brace and tweaked them enough so the pulgs know longer touched.
Originally Posted by Hammertime1978
Any reason when I'm installing that amp because of the those clearance issues with RCA'S, I couldn't just cut a notch out of that brace with a dremel?
I put the amp in the position that I wanted it. Then took a pair of Chanel locks to the brace and tweaked them enough so the pulgs know longer touched.
Well I guess when it came down to a choice of modifying a $1.99 cable and modifying the support frame of the fairing of my bike I chose to modify the cable
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