When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good point, and that should work for most, but if you find a lock nut that's tight the whole shock assy tends to rotate, and that's where I used the open end wrench.
Looks like I'll just have to jack it up and try it. Hopefully, mine will loosen up without any special effort.
If needed hit it with a little "PB Blaster" and let it sit for an hour or so.
I never had a problem loosening the nut.
My spanner wrench is now just a wall hanger since I upgraded to Progressive 422 RAPs, all I need to do now to adjust the shocks is turn a **** for 1 or 2 up riding.
If needed hit it with a little "PB Blaster" and let it sit for an hour or so.
I never had a problem loosening the nut.
My spanner wrench is now just a wall hanger since I upgraded to Progressive 422 RAPs, all I need to do now to adjust the shocks is turn a **** for 1 or 2 up riding.
May hit it with a heat gun, too. The reason I'm doing this is to see if the stock shocks, after adjusting, are adequate for my purposes. If not, I'm getting Shotgun Shocks and the Progressive lowering kit in the front. If it is adequate, I'll just get the stock height kit.
May hit it with a heat gun, too. The reason I'm doing this is to see if the stock shocks, after adjusting, are adequate for my purposes. If not, I'm getting Shotgun Shocks and the Progressive lowering kit in the front. If it is adequate, I'll just get the stock height kit.
The heat gun carries the risk of damaging the hydraulic damper (shock) and the rubbers.
Not sure what you are getting at with the height comment.
My NT has 20K miles on it and I increased the preload to a higher setting required for my weight just because I like it that little bit firmer, and find it adequate for me - if I found the need to replace them, it would be the Heavy 422's without the RAP.
I'm very happy with the Progressive stock height monotubes in the front.
If your trying to use the shock as a lowering means, don't waste your time. You'll wind up with a hard tail. I've tried lowering bolts too. they didn't do it. I kept bottoming out. Just bite the bullet and go with the SS.
The heat gun carries the risk of damaging the hydraulic damper (shock) and the rubbers.
Not sure what you are getting at with the height comment.
My NT has 20K miles on it and I increased the preload to a higher setting required for my weight just because I like it that little bit firmer, and find it adequate for me - if I found the need to replace them, it would be the Heavy 422's without the RAP.
I'm very happy with the Progressive stock height monotubes in the front.
If I don't like my shocks even after adjustment, I'll go to Shotguns. Since I can lower Shotguns, I'll get the Progressive lowering monotubes. If I don't get Shotguns, I'll just stay at stock height.
Good tip on not using the heat gun, thanks.
Last edited by Dieselvol; Nov 15, 2014 at 10:18 PM.
If your trying to use the shock as a lowering means, don't waste your time. You'll wind up with a hard tail. I've tried lowering bolts too. they didn't do it. I kept bottoming out. Just bite the bullet and go with the SS.
Nah, that ain't it. My 14 year old think he has to be on it, or it won't start. I'm just trying to get a little more "absorption" out of the shocks.
Good point, and that should work for most, but if you find a lock nut that's tight the whole shock assy tends to rotate, and that's where I used the open end wrench.
Got the shocks adjusted using the technique outlined above. Didn't need heat or PB Blaster. Just put my spanner on and tapped a little with a rubber hammer. Popped loose easily. Pouring rain and 35 degrees have delayed the test run. Thanks to all for the advice.
