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looking closer on Facebook, I would say get a 90° fitting coming off Master cylinder. It should place brake line parallel with bars. You can punch it into the bars about 1" after the 90° of the bars and then out wherever you need to come out. If the line is black you won't even see it.
Last edited by dyolfknip; Apr 5, 2015 at 12:42 AM.
Haha haven't you got churches or something to be taking selfies in?? :P
Man these 1" RSD apes were enough of a pain for one cable for me, hats off to you putting the lot through. My only saving grace is at each point of the bars it's open (there's caps that seal it off) so you can help feed **** through, but the dowfall is only being 1" and where the vertical tubes connect with the horizontal tubes, that actually run half way inside the other tube leaving just half an inch to turn the cable, tight is all I can say. You can see below what I mean
Where the brake line connects to the master cylinder is right at the end of the bar, so it'd have to enter on the down tube of the bars, and because they're so short it's pretty much pointless really IMO. If they were taller I would
A dremal will take care of that lip and give you plenty of room southside.
Pretty pumped, got the word the front wheel has been sent today. Apparently it's the first invader wheel Led Sleds have sent to Australia. Invader wheels don't seam to be getting used here yet, so this will be something different for over here. Personally I think it's going to look bad *** on this bike. My guess is ill have it here in about 3 weeks
That's the one Irle, the old 5 spoker. Should be a cool thing!
Hell yeah G that's rad first build, i didn't even exist then lol. Yeah I'm kinda interested to see the weight in this wheel. With the smaller bars, less controls and light weight brakes there's a fair weight reduction up front. Was hoping it'd be no heavier then the fat chunky billet wheel I had on there before
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