Just another example of MOCO shitty engineering.

 

So let's see one guy has trouble getting a bolt out and its the mocos fault. I suppose if those bolts loosened and came off they wouldn't be on tight enough and of course it would be the mocos fault

 

The area that needs the heat is the black area that the bolt screws into, not the bolthead.

 

+1 on heating the right part. A mini torch or even a good heat gun should work.

 

Double post however the hades that happened.

 

Had mine off a few times this summer. Lots of heat from a heat gun and I used a good quality dog bone and a breaker bar. It was more of a nuisance blocking the sickle up properly to remove the shocks.

 

Done four sets so far to install higher suspension/shorter shocks. I forget the socket size (3/4"???) but I use one with a 1/2" drive right angle cheater bar (mine's only about 16") that has an adjustable right angle adapter for the socket. The Service Manual says remove several parts...all BS and no parts removal is required if you're familiar with tools and Harleys.

A ratchet end wrench and socket won't fit the rear bolts, but can be used for the front fasteners. As noted above heat the black frame piece the rear bolts screw into with a propane torch after spraying some penetrating oil (I use Aero Kroil) on the bolt head area. I heat the frame until the oil starts to slightly smoke. You can keep an extinguisher handy if concerned but I've had no fires but do make sure the black rubber fuel tank vent is plugged and moved away from the area.

Then sit on the floor (behind for the right bolt and in front for the left). Push the cheater bar's end with your foot while holding onto the bike and in gear. It helps to previously level the frame with a lift if possible to gain left side access but I leave the tires in contact with the floor so it can't move around on the lift. Once loose use an open end or gear wrench to remove the bolt while either holding the frame up with a lift, or suspending it from overhead with a come-a-long or whatever like an engine hoist attached to the rear of the frame under the seat area. I use a nylon strap to tie to the frame and suspender. Move the rear tire up with a jack to gain clearance to remove the shocks after the bolts are removed.

Install the threaded front of the new shocks in the frame support moving the rear tire up to gain clearance for the shocks. I like to put a hydraulic floor jack under the rear tire while the frame is lifted and supported as above to move the rear tire up and down to remove the rear bolts and keep the tire from falling, and then later align the rear of the shock with the rear frame holes. First clean the old locker from the internal threads in the frame with brake cleaner and a brush, then put thread locker on the bolt threads and reinstall the bolts. I just use my foot again on the cheater to tighten.

Harley sells an adapter to remove and tighten the bolt (Snap-On P/N SRES24). It allows the close spacing that makes it all easier, adds torque, and allows the use of a torque wrench. I don't have one and do as described.

Edit: After thinking this over some I looked at the socket I used initially to remove the rear bolts...it's a real shallow/short 1/2" drive one and it's a tight fit with the cheater attached. Not the best compared to a dog bone adapter with the cheater hung below the bike I'm sure. On the last replacement in May I now recall using a long 3/4" box end wrench after heating and with foot pressure to get the bolt broke loose. I have a set of gear wrenches that I used to work the bolt partially out. I had to remove that wrench and finish with a regular open ended wrench. Sorry for the mistaken directions I posted earlier.

Gary

 

man that tool looks like the ticket! Good advice! I think would pick one up before trying this job.

 

solid advice gary. i'll give this another shot today.

 

It's not as bad as it sometimes turns out...especially the first time and if SM is followed verbatim. I have a Sears floor jack that I used to level the Softails and a big screw eye in my garage that's drilled into a ceiling rafter that I attach a hand winch to lift the rear of the bike. I've seen techs use a combination of under frame mechanical jacks, blocks, and engine hoists to support the frame, lift the rear, and elevate the tire to align the rear bolts.

The problem with only using a floor jack is that it needs to be far enough forward on the frame to allow access to the shocks...that leaves lots of weight on the rear that eventually needs to be supported when the shocks are removed (the rear suspension/tire is then free to swing up and down). The tire needs to be lifted up all the way to make factory shock removal easier. The factory shocks for the low suspension are longer than the replacements that lower the tire ~1" and raise the frame about the same. The new shorter shocks go in way easier.

The SRES24 adapter (check E-Bay) is primarily used to properly torque the bolts. It's placed on the torque wrench at 90 deg so its added length doesn't affect the torque. But put end-wise on a wrench the added length can add effective torque to help turn the shoulder bolts.

Hints: Put antiseize lube on the bolt shoulder to reduce wear between it and the shock head. Put abrasive valve lapping compound on the bolt head to reduce slippage of the socket or wrench especially if the head is already deformed. Adjust the new shocks for your weight before installing...I like 2 turns out for 200#. Clamp the shock end in a vise, loosen the 17mm lock nut, and turn the adjuster disc with the pronged adapter CCW. They come from the factory at minimum pre-load. Put antiseize on the shock threads for later adjustment and to prevent corrosion.

GL, Gary