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finally got the bolt out. bought a quality wrench and tack welded it to the bolt. with the rear tire off it was easier to get a long pipe over the wrench to get more leverage and she came right out, no heat needed. heading to the stealership to grab two new bolts just for peace of mind.
gary, i'm putting a shotgun shock in it so i don't need to worry about most of that stuff, but that is valuable information for others (or myself) down the road. don't have a snap on dealer in the area so i'll have to button it up and use ebay to pick one up and torque accordingly later this week. thanks again guys
No need to buy an expensive Snap-On products for limited use...just Google "dog bone torque adapter" for the fastener size needed. I need to get some after all these years of making do without.
Yup that's the easiest way to get it done unless learning is fun.
Takes me about an hour to do now without a lift table by using frame and other jacks and the ceiling winch. Heat makes it easy to remove the fasteners.
Not sure what the going flat rate is but dealers have the tables and tools, some even have the training and prior experience. I did have one done by them a few years back along with a comp sprocket changeout (why not at winter labor rates when my concrete shop floor is cold?). The comment was they did "finally get them changed" after much wrestling with jacks, cheater bar and adapter, and working in tight places trying to beat the flat rate for more profit.
so use blue loc tight when bolting it back together?
I did but others might use red for heavier locking but more difficult removal later. Whatever suits. If the shock to bolt facing is lubed it shouldn't loosen the bolt. But periodically checking the tightness is an easy event like when adjusting the rear belt. You're there anyway so why not?
I think it's important to clean away the old locker Harley uses with a solvent and wire brush, or with a thread chaser in the frame holes and on the fastener threads. That way any new locker gets a good contact with metal parts.
I bought a cheap 4 lb plastic coated hammer from Harbor Freight and used a box wrench.....bam bam, the bolts finally gave in!
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I just changed the rear shocks on a 2004 fatboy this past Wednesday. Box wrench and a cheap regular old hammer from harbor Freight. Took 3-4 hits each to loosen them up.
A local Harley tech offered that he had the best results with a dog bone adapter wrench and a big bar offset from it. That way he can push down on the cheater bar with some leverage. Uses no heat just levers and muscle.
I first tried the hammer method but had no luck and the wrench wanted to run away after the hit.
Edit: After thinking this over some I looked at the socket I used to remove the rear bolts...it's a real shallow/short 1/2" drive one and it's a tight fit with the cheater attached. Not the best compared to a dog bone adapter with the cheater hung below the bike I'm sure. On the last replacement in May I now recall using a long 3/4" box end wrench after heating and with foot pressure to get the bolt broke loose. I have a set of gear wrenches that I used to work the bolt partially out. I had to remove that wrench and finish with a regular open ended wrench. Sorry for the mistaken directions earlier. I'll edit that as well.
the saga continues. after a heck of a time trying to get the stock shocks out, i get everything hooked up and ready to roll. hit the switches.. nothing. not a hum, a fart, a cough, nothing. thought maybe the bike needed to be in the run position. nope. nothing. checked the fuse. fuse is good. everything is plugged in (it's idiot proof) and nothing. not happy about it, though i know when i call JD he'll help me out however he can. just don't really feel like pulling the thing back apart. booo.. hisss...
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