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I bought a 2001 Big Dog chopper a couple years back, bike was literally like showroom new and only had 4k miles on it, S&S 107 / Baker 6 / PM Billet everything. Damn thing cost me over 8k in the first year in repairs.
That sounds rough. My buddy owns a big dog and before they went out of business he was always getting warrenty/repair work done on it. On the plus side of it he told me he had never had better customer service.
That sounds rough. My buddy owns a big dog and before they went out of business he was always getting warrenty/repair work done on it. On the plus side of it he told me he had never had better customer service.
Lol yeh well I came to find out it was par for the course with a lot of the early Dogs. They had major issues with the engine electronics and many of the bikes were assembled in "beer Friday" fashion. Heck, the stock quench was almost .005 different front to rear (different height pistons)- how's that?!? one cyl with .049 and one with 0.54 - compression was in the toilet.
But in the end I got almost $40k worth of bike for $14k (all in) and it's still like new. And she's putting down 120hp / 130tq to the pavement on the new build and sweet Baker DD 6, it's an FXR-style Daytec frame with inverted MeanStreet forks - goes like the wind.
Being used to that Baker plushness made me think my Breakout's tranny was defective first time I rode it home. then I remembered, that's just the HD trans.. ;p
It's the LSR 2-1 slash cut for Evo FXR w/ forward controls, 00-1183 Style "C". Damn nice pipe, 2" at the head, RBR knows their stuff- the finish is flawless on the chrome.
Nice......... I'm running the 1160, 1 3/4 on my evo. great from 3-6500 rpm...
Yeh nice choice. RB pipes are the little known secret weapon. I went with the 2" version as part of the overall engine build design. the bike came with a set of very specific Edlebrock high flow heads- the same type Wink Eller designed for his bikes with setting land speed records. The bike had a lot of one-off build options on it.
I actually talked with Wink about these heads and he gave me the lowdown on how to best use them in a street application. That was quite a memorable and massively informative conversation. I built the motor to pull like a train from 2k rpm up- I've got 110tq @ 2k peaking to 130tq by 4000. the drop is gradual down from there but HP crosses over sharply by 4500 and hits 120hp by 5500. My goal was primarily a fun town bike and seems to have worked out well. Not the most economical bike for freeway trips, that's for sure
You could be looking at something else. No pulley bolt is INCH pounds.
As an aside 74, when you install the new bolts take a sharpie or paint stick and strike a line over the bolt head to the pulley. That's a quick and easy way to see if they have backed out during your pre-ride check. If the lines no longer meet, you know to check them.
Originally Posted by Olie
Tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm). Out of a 2008 Ultra Service Manual
80 ft lbs seems a lot for an aluminum hub. My manual recommends 60# and I've never had a problem. Red loctite is also used.......As long as they are torqued and stepped evenly. 25/40/60 star pattern....
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