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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 10:49 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Kburgad
Fls I forgot to ask last time about the hard lines. What did you use for the attachment bolts to the engine? La dog has a good point, slow down the air by going up if there is any oil it will drain back down. As I was reading I was thinking if the lines go up then you would never get any oil of it. Wait a second that's the point.
Attached to engine with banjo bolts and 10mm to -6AN banjo fittings.
There is very little to no oil in the catch can even when I thrash the engine. I would rather the milky oil (oil water mix) go to the can than have an opportunity to drain back to the engine though...only want clean oil there lol. We have ran breather systems on drag and stock cars for decades (since EPA came up with emissions restrictions in 74) and always vent down. The whole idea is to get the vapor out so I give it the smoothest route possible, I don't care if it has a spec of oil with it.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 11:16 AM
  #12  
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^^ FLS is fine with his use and understanding of it- really it's more about how much the motor itself is puking oil out the breathers. some do it more than others. the routing lines upward is just a trick I learned from a pretty sharp builder of race motors. with higher internal velocity, higher vol oil pumps, more oil can end up in the rockers than can drain down fast enough and more of it comes out of the breathers. there are already air/oil separation passages / design inside the motor to help reduce oil out the breathers. routing lines upwards just provides another layer of air/oil separation. sometimes it is not needed. on my Big Dog, it is needed- when I rev that thing out for an extended period it puts quite a bit into my catch can. by routing up I reduced that by half. routing up does not guarantee no oil will come out, and you'd mainly see the tan honey looking aerated stuff.

On my HD, maybe not needed to route up. routing upwards may be my best design choice though for aesthetics - will see when I'm messing with it. for FLS, routing down looks good on the bike and no reason it would not work fine unless engine was overly puking.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 11:41 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
^^ FLS is fine with his use and understanding of it- really it's more about how much the motor itself is puking oil out the breathers. some do it more than others. the routing lines upward is just a trick I learned from a pretty sharp builder of race motors. with higher internal velocity, higher vol oil pumps, more oil can end up in the rockers than can drain down fast enough and more of it comes out of the breathers. there are already air/oil separation passages / design inside the motor to help reduce oil out the breathers. routing lines upwards just provides another layer of air/oil separation. sometimes it is not needed. on my Big Dog, it is needed- when I rev that thing out for an extended period it puts quite a bit into my catch can. by routing up I reduced that by half. routing up does not guarantee no oil will come out, and you'd mainly see the tan honey looking aerated stuff.

On my HD, maybe not needed to route up. routing upwards may be my best design choice though for aesthetics - will see when I'm messing with it. for FLS, routing down looks good on the bike and no reason it would not work fine unless engine was overly puking.
Agreed, my brothers 117 sends a lot of oil out the breathers. My 103 did when it was stock and I was worried it would after the build. I think the new breather baffles and umbrella valves I put on helped cure it...may show back up after a few thousand miles and have me cussing lol. Just like everything else on our bikes, it's what works and looks best for each person. Watching to see how that build of yours tunes out Dog. When I had the 57H cams and 50mm it shredded the stock 140mm tire on my Slim with 32/68 gearing. Gave me an excuse to do the 200mm conversion. I bet it really rocks with your gearing.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 12:13 PM
  #14  
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Yeh well I hope I can get the tune dialed in that well- today will be first real day of tuning. keep fingers crossed. for my big dog I need to pull the rocker boxes and drill out the oil drainback passages wider. been to lazy to do it. just dump the catch can once in awhile I have one of those nifty billet catch cans with a valve on the bottom.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 04:01 PM
  #15  
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Hey LA,

What's the part number for that throttle body you had machined?
I found one on eBay. #H-D P/N: 27618-06
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 04:03 PM
  #16  
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Or maybe this one? H-D P/N: 27641-06
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 06:49 PM
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I got this one: 27708-06 / 27618-06

 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 06:53 PM
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BTW did a test run today with the new tune- holy CRAP. definitely all 100% good. bike is pretty damn fast and pulls like a train. light up tire at stop light? no problem-o. ;p that 5ommTB and 4.9 injectors do make a difference. bike even sounds different (meaner).

Much thanks to one of the long time tuners here on the forum for working with me on adjustments. and those of you who let me peek at your similar build tune files.
 
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