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How far off were the 90° bends from working? I'm looking at doing this but I'd like to use the sniper 2 90's.
It will depend on what hydraulic master cylinder kit you're going to use. The 90 degree sniper didn't work for my set-up (please review my previous picture post #8). It's up to you to risk it that is why I mentioned that the straight and/or the 20 degree sniper banjos will most likely be the better if not the best choice for most application.
It will depend on what hydraulic master cylinder kit you're going to use. The 90 degree sniper didn't work for my set-up (please review my previous picture post #8). It's up to you to risk it that is why I mentioned that the straight and/or the 20 degree sniper banjos will most likely be the better if not the best choice for most application.
The 90 with stock master and 1.5" Carlini bars is about 1/4" short to work properly for internal plumbing. With some adjustment to the bend, it could probably be made to work.
The 20s can be bent further if you're careful. I wanted 45s so I bought the 20s and made a little tool to bend them.
@cggorman: what did you end up doing on the bars side? Did you do a cable to hydraulic clutch conversion? I have ABS brakes so the other end of the sniper banjo is at the module.
@cggorman: what did you end up doing on the bars side? Did you do a cable to hydraulic clutch conversion? I have ABS brakes so the other end of the sniper banjo is at the module.
This season I'm just sticking with the stock cable clutch. I seriously considered a hydro clutch conversion, but scope and budget were getting out of hand. I'm not sure yet what's in store for next winter's mods.
This season I'm just sticking with the stock cable clutch. I seriously considered a hydro clutch conversion, but scope and budget were getting out of hand. I'm not sure yet what's in store for next winter's mods.
Cool! If you decided to go hydraulic clutch later on, im sure you're aware that you have to cut 1/2 an inch on the sniper brake line and you cannot thread it back coz of leak. Mines are a few inches longer too hidden behind the headlight housing just to be sure.
nice work...I'd like to do this when I do mini apes...I'm hoping I won't have to lengthen the wires if I stay with 8" ones. would you say larger diameter bars (over the stock 1" are a requirement for this to work?
nice work...I'd like to do this when I do mini apes...I'm hoping I won't have to lengthen the wires if I stay with 8" ones. would you say larger diameter bars (over the stock 1" are a requirement for this to work?
Larger diameter bars is for convenience in putting everything internal. Remember, you have to tuck-in wires, sniper lines plus one cable on the right side if you're doing internal throttle. I've seen people made it to work in 1.25" bars BUT they did foot clutch and I believed relocated the hand controls. I think it will be challenging if not impossible to make it work in 1 inch bars depending on your application. I would seriously encourage you going for fatter bars if you're really interested in this project.
Hey kinect, how does your clutch feel on your bike? I did the swap on my fatboy everything the same as yours but all harley controls. the sniper 2 line diameter is so small the clutch is super stiff and very slow to disengage and engage. I call goodridge the guy practically laughed at me and said no you cant do that. So I did some looking and the original sniper line is -3 vs the sniper 2 is -2 line so i ordered all the stuff swapped to the bigger line, clutch pulls line butter but now doesnt have enough throw and clutch wont fully disengage. ???? any help?? im no dummy ive got my own shop but figured I would bounce my problem off someone else that has done the install.
I spoke with another shop and he said all they use is the plastic line kid from russell but I didnt care for the stiff line
Thanks!!
Last edited by Josh Lutz; Nov 21, 2018 at 12:53 PM.
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