DIY: Project Clean Bars too… The Everything Internal Thread
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 142
Likes: 27
From: Guam
DIY: Project Clean Bars too… The Everything Internal Thread
So I thought there might have some interest in putting everything inside the handlebars with all these ape hanger threads that came out lately. I have the Carlini Flying apes 14” 1.5 diameter for a while now and I really wanted to put everything internal. I reviewed old threads dating back 5-6 years ago to see how people did the internal throttle and lines used. Those guys were pioneers so hats-off to them! But I thought I can improve the look and function of their work. I really wanted my bars to be clean and tidy and yet functional. So I figured, this is my share.
Before pic:
Disclaimer: I’m not a mechanic and definitely not apro! Just some guy who likes to tinker on stuff. This mod is not for the average rider who just wants to ride and do simple maintenance on their own bike. I guess it’s so easy to lube the stock throttle and idle cable versus aninternal throttle cable. This is my simple DIY (destroy_it_yourself) thread.You can do this mod with a little bit of mechanical know-how and a tiny bit of common sense. I am not responsible for any damage that you may incur if you chose to do this.
Stuff I used:
Before pic:
Disclaimer: I’m not a mechanic and definitely not apro! Just some guy who likes to tinker on stuff. This mod is not for the average rider who just wants to ride and do simple maintenance on their own bike. I guess it’s so easy to lube the stock throttle and idle cable versus aninternal throttle cable. This is my simple DIY (destroy_it_yourself) thread.You can do this mod with a little bit of mechanical know-how and a tiny bit of common sense. I am not responsible for any damage that you may incur if you chose to do this.
Stuff I used:
- Demon Cycles Chrome Handlebar Control kit $249.99 http://www.demonscycle.com/custom-chrome-hydraulic-hand-controls-for-single-disc-harley-davidson-3829.html
- ChromeSwitch Housing kit $33.90 (ebay seller: KIWAV)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KiWAV-chrome-switch-control-house-kit-OEM-71826-11-for-Harley-14-later-XL-/401257366885?hash=item5d6ccd8565:g:9EMAAOSwnHZYdR5 Q&vxp=mtr - Goodridge Sniper 2 (Check for best price)
- 3/8” Straight banjo x 2 pieces (clutch)
- 7/16” Straight banjo x 2 pieces (brake)
- Black Coated Hose 12 feet
- Exile Internal Throttle $200
- Barnett Internal Throttle cable #47-9990 $35
- Performance Machine Hydraulic Clutch $300 (Ebay seller Jawzys)
- Dewalt SAE TAP $30
- Set Screws 10-32 x ¼” $0.87
- Husky Pipe Cutter 1 1/8” $16
- Assorted file set $12
- HDX Deburring tool $6.78
- Dewalt 3/8” drill bit $5.87
- Remove the battery completely from the bike and put it on a tender. Remove OEM controls and cables do a mock-up of the position of the new chrome control kit and its position marked by a masking tape or painter’s tape.
- Plan where to drill holes for the sniper banjos on both sides and marked them again with a pen or sharpie.
- Measure the throttle side where you want to cut the bars at the point you want the grip to meet the bar. I used the Exile Internal Throttle “small version” so I did not cut 4 inches from the end of the bar like the one you will do in a regular version. The advantage of this is, you could push the grip way over the “Small”twist sleeve so that the twist sleeve was housed in the outboard end of the grip instead of the inboard if that facilitates installation (as that would mean cutting less of the bar).
- I used a Husky pipe cutter for this on and I think I only cut about 2 inches from the bar end. It only took me a few turns to make that clean, square cut. Clean the edges using a deburring tool. After the cut I noticed that the handlebar insert of the Exile throttle will not slide into the handlebar end so I used a dremel for this just on the opening and to my surprise the exile handlebar insert slid smoothly. So for the record, it didn’t take much reaming for the exile throttle to be inserted thru the bars.
- Remove the bars completely from the bike and drill pilot holes you initially made forthe brake and clutch banjos. If you were precise on where your straight banjos will enter the bar then enlarge the pilot holes using a 3/8” drill bit. Consider the position and distance of the bars and the straight banjos with sealing washers for this. Connect and re-connect the masters for this until you’re happy.
- Follow the Exile Instructions for the internal throttle to the T. I did not weld it tothe bars but only used set screws. They only provided one so I had to use another 10-32 set screw I bought from home depot. It has 2 pre-threaded holes to hold the outer cable anchor so I used these 2 holes coz I felt that using only one set screw is insufficient.
- Once my holes were done, I sprayed some paint on the holes that I made for the brake and clutch and let them dry coz these are exposed to the elements.
- I threaded the holes with string to fish the wires, lines and internal throttle cable. I did the wires first coz they have the most bulk then the sniper lines from the bottom of the bars into the right and left side of the brake and clutch respectively. Then lastly the external housing of the throttle cable also from the bottom exiting to the right handlebar.
- Install the bars into the risers. Change the riser bushings to polyurethane if you haven’t done already.
- I only lifted my tank to position the throttle cable as well as removing and reconnecting the wires to their respective plugs. The trick I learned from the internal throttle cable to have a precise length is to connect the end of the inner cable to the carb then pull the internal cable on its housing then assemble the outer cable anchor and slide barrel. There should only be a tiny gap in between and this can be marked by the copper crush sleeve.
- Assemble the sniper lines on the handlebar side. The brake master is a 7/16 straight banjo and the hydraulic master is 3/8” straight banjo. My estimate for the upper brake line was 54 inches so I cut it at 60 inches. Route the lines appropriately coz there so much excess for a 12 feet line. (157 inches actual length)
- Assemble the 7/16 straight banjo on the other end and connect to the ABS module on the downtube. Change the copper washers or sealing washers with appropriate size. (7/16”)
- Remove the cable clutch actuator and pry the oils slinger using a flathead screwdriver then re-assemble the piston components.
- Assemble the 3/8” straight banjo at the PM hydraulic clutch. I had a set-back following their instruction to install the housing first before putting the lines so I ended up damaging the weird thread of the 3/8-24 banjo. So I had to re-tap the entry.
- Bleed both masters using DOT 4 brake fluid. ( note that on the sticker to use DOT 5)
- The control switch housing on the Demon Cycles kit does not match the stock so I used another from ebay seller kiwav which fits perfectly. My only issue with this setup is that there is no notch on the hydraulic lever to make contact to the starter interrupt switch so im unable to start the bike in gear. So note to self… Don’t STALL! And the other one is that the chrome switch on the brake side’s Allen bolt is hidden beneath the lever so you have to remove the brake master so that you can torque the 2nd Allen that keeps the switch housing in place. My solution, I only used one Allen and put Loctite to it so it will not move. I read some bad wraps from demon cycles but it did not stop me from ordering from them. They are a hundred bucks cheaper than the drag specialties kit on ebay.
- Check and torque everything then Enjoy!
- Damn that's a long post!
Last edited by kinect; Feb 8, 2017 at 12:11 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
Excellent write up. I'm getting ready to do this install as well. Just gathering all the pieces for now. Thank you for the write up.
how are the demon cycles controls and master cylinders? I like the fact that they look exactly like the stock ones. How is the chrome quality and overall quality of the units? I'd rather pay a little extra for better quality if I have to (I.e the drag spec ones.)
how are the demon cycles controls and master cylinders? I like the fact that they look exactly like the stock ones. How is the chrome quality and overall quality of the units? I'd rather pay a little extra for better quality if I have to (I.e the drag spec ones.)
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 405
Likes: 88
From: South Louisiana
Sub'd.. I'll be doing this as well. I've always loved the look of cable-less bars, but some of the turn key jobs are almost $3,000! I'm all about DIY, so this now on my mod list. 
Thanks man, great job!
Thanks man, great job!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,019
Likes: 599
From: Columbus, OH
Thank You! Nice write up, been piecing together stuff for this kind of project on my bike.
With the straight banjo fittings on your master cylinders you had enough room inside the bars to make a 90 degree bend with the hose without kinking? The bars I'm working with are 1 1/4" and I was thinking I will have to use an angled banjo fitting to avoid kinking the line. If you have any more pics of how you did your fittings I would like to see them.
With the straight banjo fittings on your master cylinders you had enough room inside the bars to make a 90 degree bend with the hose without kinking? The bars I'm working with are 1 1/4" and I was thinking I will have to use an angled banjo fitting to avoid kinking the line. If you have any more pics of how you did your fittings I would like to see them.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 142
Likes: 27
From: Guam
When doing a custom work, it is not one size fits all so you have to factor everything. For example the size of the bars, they have different size exit points at the bottom of the riser so if it might be too tight there like the carlini bars then there might have some issues. You also have to factor how the cables were lengtened. Were they soldered or used the Namz extension? The key is to have accurate measurement.
Measure if the banjo will fit.
This is a 20 degree magnum shielding fitting i had which is longer than the sniper 2 fitting.
Sure it's not gonna work like that so a 20 degree or straight fitting will work best. The 20 degree is longer than the straight though of about 6-7mm
Sniper 2 fittings. I don't have a 20 degree right now
Here is how to assemble the sniper 2 system
Fits perfectly for me. I put a dub of clear silicone on the holes to keep the elements out and I haven't clean it up yet in this picture.
Measure if the banjo will fit.
This is a 20 degree magnum shielding fitting i had which is longer than the sniper 2 fitting.
Sure it's not gonna work like that so a 20 degree or straight fitting will work best. The 20 degree is longer than the straight though of about 6-7mm
Sniper 2 fittings. I don't have a 20 degree right now
Here is how to assemble the sniper 2 system
Fits perfectly for me. I put a dub of clear silicone on the holes to keep the elements out and I haven't clean it up yet in this picture.
Last edited by kinect; Feb 8, 2017 at 04:20 PM.
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