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Sorry for the dark pics we're not getting much daylight while I'm home and the bike is filthy. Bars are Burleigh Bars 2" Highballs 14" tall. No modifications were needed to the bars for the internal wiring which is one reason I chose this brand.
I thought about the 90 degree banjo because that was what i ordered at first but im glad i waited and got the straight. It really depends on the application and those bars are really mean! @MRPHS THUMBS WAY UP!
Thanks Kinect! This thread helped me. I went a slightly different route but I did use the Sniper II system and the goal was clean(er) bars. Fairly pleased with the project and thrilled with the Goodridge. I'm away from home and the bike is in storage for the season anyway, but here is what I have...
Sniper II lines and fittings with Goodridge banjo switch, stock lever perches, Delt Fab LED levers, Posh internal throttle, Carlini Lowdown bars, Motogadget mini switches, & custom transition/trim rings.
Sorry this is the best I have. I can get something better if anybody is interested.
Thanks Kinect! This thread helped me. I went a slightly different route but I did use the Sniper II system and the goal was clean(er) bars. Fairly pleased with the project and thrilled with the Goodridge. I'm away from home and the bike is in storage for the season anyway, but here is what I have...
Sniper II lines and fittings with Goodridge banjo switch, stock lever perches, Delt Fab LED levers, Posh internal throttle, Carlini Lowdown bars, Motogadget mini switches, & custom transition/trim rings.
Sorry this is the best I have. I can get something better if anybody is interested.
Those mini-switches are cool! I thought of getting something like those but my bike is a Canbus system so additional module and cost is needed which i tried to sway away from. Good job and i appreciate the feedback.
Trouble Shoot: Hydraulic Clutch too stiff after completely flushing the system
Originally Posted by Josh Lutz
Hey kinect, how does your clutch feel on your bike? I did the swap on my fatboy everything the same as yours but all harley controls. the sniper 2 line diameter is so small the clutch is super stiff and very slow to disengage and engage. I call goodridge the guy practically laughed at me and said no you cant do that. So I did some looking and the original sniper line is -3 vs the sniper 2 is -2 line so i ordered all the stuff swapped to the bigger line, clutch pulls line butter but now doesnt have enough throw and clutch wont fully disengage. ???? any help?? im no dummy ive got my own shop but figured I would bounce my problem off someone else that has done the install.
I spoke with another shop and he said all they use is the plastic line kid from russell but I didnt care for the stiff line
Thanks!!
First of all i want to apologize for bumping my own thread. I tried to personally message the guy with only 2 posts in this forum but i have yet to get a response.
I just want to share my own experience yesterday when i did my yearly maintenance for my bike. These include changing all the fluids in the 3 holes, lubing my internal throttle and flushing all brake fluids (hydraulic clutch included). I ran into the same problem Josh Lutz on post #30. I just thought i should address the issue and share how i managed to do the trick. He was complaining that the hydraulic clutch lever was super stiff probably during or after bleeding the hydraulic clutch system. This happened to me too yesterday when i wanted to completely flush the old brake fluid.
I put new brake fluid as you would normally bleed the system.
1. I connected a silicone clear tubing to the bleeder screw attached to a small bottle with tip submerged into a small amount of old brake fluid.
2. Open the derby cover then loosen the 11/16 lock nut.
3. With the cover of the hydraulic master removed, suction the old fluid with a syringe then completely clean the inside.
4. Put new brake fluid and begin pulling the clutch lever 5x.
5. Hold the lever onto the the grip then crack open the bleeder screw. Do this until clear fluid drain in the tubing and with no bubbles.
6. NOW THIS IS WHERE THE CLUTCH LEVER BECAME TOO STIFF. This is because the piston of my Performance Machine Clutch slave BOTTOMED-OUT. So the solution was to push-in that piston towards the clutch slave as you would in the pistons of your brake caliper. The difference is that you can visually see it in a brake caliper but not in the clutch slave.
7. SOLUTION: Stand on the left side of the bike then hold the stiff clutch lever with your left hand (of course). Now release the pressure by opening the bleeder screw. Keep holding the clutch lever and bleeder screw open and then turn the clutch adjustment using an allen key clockwise until you feel that the piston bottomed-in the clutch slave or as if you hit a wall. Excess brake fluid will drain towards the clear tubing.
8. Now close the bleeder screw fully and release the clutch lever.
9. Adjust the clutch per HD manual which is 1/2 to a full turn counter-clockwise then tighten the 11/16 lock nut.
10. Compress the lever a few times then add fluid to the correct level.
11. Congratulations! You completely flushed the system and the lever is now smooth as butter.
Hope this helps and serve as a guide for people who converted from a cable to a hydraulic clutch system. Ride safe.
I would like to see some completed clean bars if this thread helped in any way. Thanks!
I don't have any close ups but here it is after I finished up.
I used Magnum Shielding's BYO lines, they are much more bulky than the ones from Goodridge but are actually DOT approved when assembled correctly.
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