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You have linked the instructions for a lowering kit, which is not the same as the low profile shock absorbers.
If the accessory low profile shock absorbers are the same as factory deluxe shock absorbers and are mounted with the same hardware, I don’t see how you are going to adjust them higher.
you could check out some heritage footboards to see if they're narrower an could cheat a little clearance that way. I put them on my Fatboy to clear the exhaust.
Super 38, so right. Someone else asked about that kit so I posted the instructions for it and pasted the wrong link in this thread. Here's the link for the low profile shocks in case anyone wants them. https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....ocument/116019
Need some help golfblues!! Today I got around to trying to adjust the height on the low profile shocks. How in the world did you get the nut to tighten down as far as you did in the pic you attached? I held the shaft with a 9/16" wrench and turned the flange nut. About a half turn was all I could get before the torque required to move the nut got really high! I removed the flange nut, outer washer and grommet, and there is plenty of thread to provide for adjustment. Is it really going to take a lot of torque to move the nut further down the shaft, or is there something I'm missing? HELP! i have the bike up on a block so the rear wheel is as low as it will go. The instructions for installing the shocks gives a torque range for the flange nut of 32-39 ft-lbs. I have to use much more than that the rotate the nut. Your suggestions? Thanks Pics attached of original position of flange nuts and the bike on block.
Don't forget you have the low profile shocks so you only have one inch of adjustment. My shocks are normal profile and they have 2 inches of adjustment so I would have a lot more thread showing. Do you have the rear wheel as far down as possible or do you have it up into the fender. It should be hanging down with a support under it at the ride height you want and you should be able to tighten it from there
A LEARNING EXPERIENCE!!! This morning I used golfblues info (thanks golfblues) and use a jack under the rear wheel to raise and lower the wheel. Without the flange nut, metal covering for the bushing and the rubber bushing, the shock shafts moved forward with the wheel lowered and in when raising the wheel. The flange nut would go on the shaft a long way without the metal cover and rubber bushing. However, once I put the bushing and cover back on, the flange nut would only go to the original position on the shaft (or maybe just a little beyond that ). The way the shaft is made, the inner bushing metal cap is prevented from going any further by an increase in the shaft's diameter ( this increase is where the flat cutouts are for a wrench to hold the shaft ). Once the metal cap and bushing are on the shaft on both ends the flange nut will only tighten so far (that is, back to the original position) because there is no room for any slack. The 2 metal caps, bushing, nut and mounting bracket take up all of the space on the shaft except for the 1/4" that originally protruded past the flange nut.
Looks like the only way to lengthen the shaft would be to loosen the large lock nut holding the preload adjustment plate and backout the shaft a few turns. You could then rotate the flange nut further onto shock shaft. Since I don't know how the shaft is mounted in the shock I don't think I try this.
Attached is a diagram of the shock mounting
Do not back out the preload nut. The shocks you have her only meant to have one inch in total travel. 5/16" on the nut equals one inch in ride height. If you want higher I suggest you try to find stock Heritage shocks as they have 2-inch adjustment.
The 5/16 equaling 1 inch is from Progressive 422 shocks but I'm sure they will the same
Last edited by golfblues; May 18, 2017 at 04:27 PM.
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