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I just did the stage 1 on mine and had to pull the rear fender to install the PCIII. Although the screws were tight with all that thread locker on them I had no issues removing them. I only use Craftsman tools. Got an nice torx/hex combo set at Sears for about $90 a few months ago.
It sure is a mystery as to why Harley uses torx and allen style for different parts. If there is a good reason, I'd sure like to know why they did it this way. Maybe they own stock in Snap-on and Craftsman!
I bought an impact wrench from Craftsman. One tap with a hammer loosens up stubborn torx heads and I've never stripped one. Especially useful due to all the aluminum used. Reinstall all with just a small amount of anti-seize.
I will add that I have broken Torx bits twice now due to the factory over-tightening or whatever. The bits just shatter. I lost one off-brand that I picked up at the auto parts store and one Craftsman that I replaced that set with. I told my wife to get ready because I was about to drop $200+ for a set of Snap-On Torx sockets.
T27 are used on the 3 torx bolts on the air cleaner...also used on brake master cyclinder clamp..handlebar clamps...console mount screw...alternator...instrument console and a few others..
I know this is the Softail forum, but I think the fairing bolts on the touring bikes are all T27's, too.
I just did the stage 1 on mine and had to pull the rear fender to install the PCIII. Although the screws were tight with all that thread locker on them I had no issues removing them. I only use Craftsman tools. Got an nice torx/hex combo set at Sears for about $90 a few months ago.
do you recall what torx size you used for the strut bolts?
+1 on the epoxy (uh, threadlocker) they use on the stut bolts. Yep, the torx are a pain but the root of the issue is that yellow paste colored threadlocker... Pulled mine very carefully (3/8 ratchet torx head) and replaced with blue loctite...
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