If you can't get any oil flow, you are probably going to have to remove side cover after releasing tension on your push rods. If they are stock you can cut them with bolt cutters and install adjustable ones when you put it back together

 

Not much oil pressure in these as it's not really a pressurised system. The oil pump flow puts just enough pressure on the oil pressure switch to keep the light off. But level and temp are key.

 

Update: Got my pressure gauge in the mail today. Got it mounted and fire the bike up very briefly. Shows zero pressure. I'll try the oil filter off and turning engine over next (already pulled the return line and checked for fluid while turning it over and got nothing, but I suppose if there was blockage before the filter somewhere that test wouldn't have shown any fluid movement). Preparing to open this thing up tomorrow night. If it does turn out to have adjustable pushrods, would that in fact mean that the top wouldn't need to come off? I need to fabricate and puller for the cam cover. When woodruff key shears, does it typically destroy everything in the vicinity? Or fall to the bottom and lay there (wishful thinking)?

 

Sorry I didn't see this before my last update. Is the rational behind relieving tension that the downward force on the cam will make lining up the bushing difficult to impossible? And if I remove the cover and it turns out the key has sheared, can I replace it with the cam still in? Or is it just to tight in there to work snap ring pliers with the cam in place? Of course this is all under the assumption that a sheared key didn't destroy all the gears in there already.

 

Downward tension on cam will make removing cover difficult and re-installing cover next to impossible. If you have to cut the pushrods, I use 12" bolt cutters and rotate the engine so the lifter is off the lobe and you can spin pushrod with fingers. That eliminates the possibility of pushing the valve further open and hitting a piston with the valve. Shouldn't need a puller- a few taps with rubber mallet and use a scraper blade to separate. It is tight in there- I would remove cam at that point and put a new Torrington cam bearing in. If key sheared off, you likely have something binding the pump. Be Shure it spins freely. If About same price and bigger gears, at least on return side of the pump.you gotta replace the pump- look at an S&S pump. No need to remove rocker boxes this way. When replacing pushrods- note the longest goes to front exhaust.

 

Key probably fell to bottom- but find it.

 

One if the things to note is that if you have a sheared key, something likely got into the pump.

 

Thank you guys tremendously. I've got a new shop manual coming in the mail. I'll start looking into adjustable push rides, and the process of removing the cam bearing. I like getting my hands dirty, but wish I had one if you guys looking over my shoulder when I get started. Lol. I need to read up on tappets bleeding down. Saw something about it and didn't quite grasp it. Got a long way to go, but I know dad is smiling down on me. Thanks again.

 

I did adj push rods when I changed my cam in my evo...everyone said it's not that hard to remove the rocker boxes to save the factory push rods but I didn't want the take the time. Since you have the manual you can check if you want to save them an inspect the gaskets while you're at it.

 

The bike doesn't leak or seep a drop so there's part of me that would prefer not to crack into the top if I don't need to. I also hate to destroy a perfectly good part. Part of me wants to just so I know exactly how it all goes together. Learn something new or let sleeping dogs lie. Haha. That question has plagued me my whole life.

On a side note, my wife bought me a Nascar driving class for my birthday so I'm about to go hit a new personal high speed!