Oil Circulation/Pressure/Temp
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 484
Likes: 38
From: DE
If you cut out pushrods be shure lifter is off lobe and past top dead center (lookin spark plug hole). This will keep u from hitting the piston with a valve as you tend to twist the bolt cutter a little bit. I use strong magnets to hold up lifters. Some use paper clips. If you remove tappet blocks-keep lifters with the block in same hole and orientation. Some lifters have a flat side and this must face the other lifter in the block for oil, Some lifters have a grove all way around so they can go either way. Be shure to use a tappet block alignment tool that screws in the bolt hole nearest the return hole in tappet block.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 484
Likes: 38
From: DE
When you remove side cover, remove inspection cover and mark the ignition plate so when you put it back together the timing will be right. Remove ignition and then the rotor cup that has 1 small bolt in middle, that is bolted to the cam. Then remove all cover bolts and tap on cover with rubber mallet and insert a scraper blade where the gasket is. Work it back and forth as there are 2 alignment dowels.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Got some work done today. Started by pulling the oil filter to check for flow when turning it over. Test confirmed no oil flow. Next I removed the exhaust to get better access to the oil pump and cam cover. I pulled the oil feed line to check for flow (it flowed out alright but nowhere near as fast as I thought it would). Drained the rest of the residual oil out the drain hose. I pulled the pushrod tubes and confirmed that they are not adjustable pushrods (I will be replacing those with adjustable rods as I plan on keeping the bike for the rest of my life and they will make future maintenance easier). Next I pulled the oil pump cover. There didn't appear to be anything visually wrong on that side. With the bike on the frame stand I put it in 5th gear and began turning the rear wheel. I wasn't surprised to see that the oil pump gears were not rotating, but I was surprised at the amount of effort it took to turn the wheel, even with the spark plugs out. So I was still leaning towards sheared oil pump shaft key. I put a rag over the oil filter housing and blew out the oil pump to filter line with compressed air. There was metal shards on the rag when I pulled it away so something definitely gave at in there. I didn't have time to cut the rods today and I'm back to the fire station tomorrow so hopefully on Tuesday my manual will have arrived and I'll have the cam cover off and see what I'm dealing with. One small piece of metal looked like it was from an angle cut gear so perhaps the pinion gear is what failed (first). Is it standard to replace everything in there if metal is found? Pictures of the oil pump shaft gear looks pretty hearty compared to the pinion gear. if the oil pump is still in tact is there a chance it is ok or does that definitely need replacement? Learning a lot about this bike, but still have questions. Thank y'all.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,923
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
You need to pull the pump housing and look at the inner gears.. They are usually the ones that eat something.. You will likely be going into the cam chest.. Common failure is the inner cam bearing or roller on a lifter.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Okay. Definitely planning on going into cam chest. Any special advice on pulling the cam bearing? Everything I'm reading says replace it with the aftermarket version while in there. Is it safe to assume I can put a new oil pump assembly in with the motor in place? I didn't realize how tight it was behind the oil pump until I removed the pump cover. I'm gonna have to fabricate a short allen wrench that I can get on my torque wrench when reassembling. I'm tempted to go cut the pushrods right now so I can remove the cam cover and see what's going on in there but I don't want to rush it and mess something up. I'll get back with you on Tuesday. Thanks again.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 484
Likes: 38
From: DE
Need a special puller to pull cam bearing. I borrow one from where I buy my cam and bearing from. Two shops by me let customers borrow it. Maybe you can work that out with your shop. It is normal to be hard to turn over bike whit rear wheel.
If metal went through the pump- its shot. Buy a new S&S pump.
If metal went through the pump- its shot. Buy a new S&S pump.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,923
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
You want a koyo or torrinton B138 bearing for the evo inner bearing. It's got a 13/16 ID so you'd need a blind hole puller that size.. You can use the cam to drive the bearing back in but I would find the special tools for RnR...
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 484
Likes: 38
From: DE
I use the cam to install the bearing. I put the bearing in my freezer for an hour to shrink it a little