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Removing 2-2 exaust

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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 10:41 AM
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Exclamation Removing 2-2 exaust

Last night ii removed my vance 2-2 pipes, I couldn't get a tool <properlly> for each one of the bolts, what do you guys use, a crows foot? etc, also what size, thanks in advance

I have a 2008 Rocker C, if that helps,

With new pipe id like it tighter than this set was installed, the nuts basically FELL off?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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On my Town Cam (IIRC) I always had no issue with a 1/2" socket on an extension bar. The front left nut was always a pig and I just used a 1/2" wrench on that.

One tip for re-assembly is to use brass nuts. That way you'll never have the nuts seize to the exhaust studs.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 10:53 AM
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I used one of those flexible extensions for those hard to reach nuts.

Cool tip on the brass nuts adm, have to keep that in mind.

 

Last edited by Rakthi; Nov 10, 2017 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rakthi
i used one of those flexible extensions for those hard to reach nuts.

Cool tip on the brass nuts adm, have to keep that in mind.

i see but how do you torque to spec, i used similiar to remove, but when i install my 1200k rb racing spyder pipe, i want it done right, ya knoiw? Lol
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by adm
on my town cam (iirc) i always had no issue with a 1/2" socket on an extension bar. The front left nut was always a pig and i just used a 1/2" wrench on that.

One tip for re-assembly is to use brass nuts. That way you'll never have the nuts seize to the exhaust studs.
there were brass on there, maybe thats why so easy to remove, thanks for that......so no crow feet wrenches being used?>im surprised?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TOMMYBLAZIN
i see but how do you torque to spec, i used similiar to remove, but when i install my 1200k rb racing spyder pipe, i want it done right, ya knoiw? Lol
I torqued the ones I could reach without the flexible to spec, the one I needed the flexible for I just tightened on "feel"

100 - 120 in/lbs is not that tight and you have the others to get some sort of idea of the force needed.

Checked the nuts a couple of times over the first 1000 or so Kms but all secure and stayed so for the next 25,000+ Kms.

The torque on those nuts is more to prevent you to strip the threads.

RB racing spyder pipe ... yum! Nice one!! Will need to see pictures when installed.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 07:01 AM
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I used a "knuckle" adapter to reach the hard one.


And like Rakthi, I just "feel tighten" that one.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 10:24 AM
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the lower rear jug exhaust bolt is a B to get....I used a 1/4" drive socket with an extention that has V cuts on it to allow the socket to rock so you don't have to have the ratchet in a straight line with the nut to remove it. they are cheap an very handy.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by langwilliams
the lower rear jug exhaust bolt is a B to get....I used a 1/4" drive socket with an extention that has V cuts on it to allow the socket to rock so you don't have to have the ratchet in a straight line with the nut to remove it. they are cheap an very handy.
THANKYOU, like I have 2 threads, people asking me like they haven't a clue or I'm doing something wrong lol, they must NOT WORK on there bikes, as you 2 surely do!, thanks guys...
 
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by langwilliams
the lower rear jug exhaust bolt is a B to get....I used a 1/4" drive socket with an extention that has V cuts on it to allow the socket to rock so you don't have to have the ratchet in a straight line with the nut to remove it. they are cheap an very handy.
im not sure of tool your talking about, can u grab a pic off online for me, thanks man!
 
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