any ABS brake kits?
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Los Angeles
any ABS brake kits?
I have an 07 Train and we had a little miss-hap this past weekend. It seems I hardly applied any pressure to my ft brake and (possibly?) do to smooth cement road she locked up and I went down. I keep reliving the moment and wondering how it could have been avoided. I've been riding bike for 45 yrs and do have experience braking the bike but I was wondering if there are any ABS brake kits available or is it just too complected? I do seem to recall how it works with something spinning around not allowing constant pressure and it seems like something like this could be built. Anyone know of a kit or should I just blow some bubbles into the line, lol?
BTW, I never locked up my previous bike, blue Warrior in signature. I think I'm going to have to change my braking habbits!
BTW, I never locked up my previous bike, blue Warrior in signature. I think I'm going to have to change my braking habbits!
Last edited by rquest; Nov 21, 2017 at 06:25 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Lafayette, Louisiana
Anything is possible with enough money and effort such as putting a small block Chevy in your bike.
Realistically you are better off with better calipers such as a six piston up front, four piston out back, stainless steel braided brake lines etc.
What kind of tires do have? That is a significant factor.
Realistically you are better off with better calipers such as a six piston up front, four piston out back, stainless steel braided brake lines etc.
What kind of tires do have? That is a significant factor.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Ky
When you hit the front brake, did you squeeze all you could get right away?
I was told slowly progressively squeezed the front, weight will shift to the front, providing better traction, allowing more squeeze.
If the front starts to slip, let off and try again, as opposed to the rear, if the rear locks up let it slide or risk a hi side flip.
I was told slowly progressively squeezed the front, weight will shift to the front, providing better traction, allowing more squeeze.
If the front starts to slip, let off and try again, as opposed to the rear, if the rear locks up let it slide or risk a hi side flip.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Los Angeles
It was noisy and I may have panicked so I really can not remember exactly what I did wrong but I certainly don't think I need MORE BRAKES, lets not forget she locked up on me. I just think the ABS would have prevented that. I think someone could make a lot of bucks if they were to invent a small passive kit that would shoot spurts of brake fluid at the caliper piston.
Last edited by rquest; Nov 22, 2017 at 12:07 AM.
Club Member
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From: Lafayette, Louisiana
Originally Posted by rquest
It was noisy and I may have panicked so I really can not remember exactly what I did wrong but I certainly don't think I need MORE BRAKES, lets not forget she locked up on me. I just think the ABS would have prevented that. I think someone could make a lot of bucks if they were to invent a small passive kit that would shoot spurts of brake fluid at the caliper piston.
What the upgrade I suggested does is spread the friction over a larger area which means a more even clamping down on the rotor as well as reduced heat.
Let’s say no brakes applied is represented by 0 and fully stopped or locked up is represented by 10. With a single piston caliper you are going to mostly get either a 0 or a 10. A multipiston caliper will get you more of the intermediate digits between 0 and 10.
A better brake pad will dissipate heat better and offer better friction which again contributes to more intermediate digits between 0 and 10.
Stainless steel braided brake lines won’t expand under pressure like an ordinary rubber one will and therefore Tye amount you squeeze makes the expected amount of movement at the caliper instead of losing some of it due to line expansion.
Your tires can be a big factor for similar reasons. Air pressure will also have a big impact as well.
I often see people lock up when they go into a corner faster than they expected or approach an unexpected curve or stop. They could have stoped or slowed the bike just fine but the surprise induces panic which then leads to lock up. I am not saying that is what happened in your case, but it is a common thing.
Something that often gets neglected is the need t completely flush out your entire brake system with fresh fluid periodically. This is probably the biggest neglected maintenance item. Not doing so leads to degraded braking performance.
Not trying to bust you up or insult you or anything like that. These items I suggested are much easier to do than trying to adapt an abs system to an older bike.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Newport news, Virginia
You may be better off getting a new(er) bike that already had the ABS system installed. By the time you purchased all the necessary parts and equipment you would have been better off buying an ABS equipped bike.
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Road Master
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Outstanding HDF Member
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From: Newport news, Virginia
Lines, wiring, ABS actuators, wheel sensors in the wheel bearing/spacers. The ABS actuators are tied into the ECU as are the sensors. plus more. Plus remebre that there is two sets to everything - front and rear.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: SW Ohio
As mentioned, practice, practice and more practice.
If you want ABS get a bike with ABS. Barring that, organic pads in the rear and if you think they work; one of those Rube Goldberg valves people pimp here every so often.
If you want ABS get a bike with ABS. Barring that, organic pads in the rear and if you think they work; one of those Rube Goldberg valves people pimp here every so often.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Nov 23, 2017 at 04:35 PM.