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LED to Incandescent change over

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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 07:34 AM
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Default LED to Incandescent change over

Hey everybody. Ran into a lil problem yesterday on my first run out for the year Had bike serviced and noticed I had a couple lights out when I rode it over to the shop. One of which was an LED marker/turn signal on the front. I didn't have spare LED's so I replaced with the incandescent bulbs that came with the signals hoping they would even work since there's a voltage suppressor for the LED's. Well they worked....a little to well. They over heated, melted my lenses and caused full electrical failure on my bike.....but not until I was about an hour out from home After sitting a little bit the bikes power started to come back....well a little at least. The bulbs were removed, got a jump from somebody and the bike ran flawlessly all the way back home.

Anyone can you enlighten me on why this would happen? If you have a voltage suppressor for LED's how can they overheat? BTW, couldn't find any wires that looked overheated anywhere on the bike.....confused to the max.
 

Last edited by coolbrz64; Mar 19, 2018 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 08:12 AM
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waiting to get educated on this one...
I have been looking at swapping in LED's on my bike.
Love the LED head bulbs I put in my truck.

You had a "voltage suppressor" did it fail because of the draw the bulbs made on the system (to much)?
Kind of like adding spot/driving lights on your car/truck and they draw to much power and require a relay?

I will shut up and wait for someone who knows the answer to respond...
 
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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I'll take a whack at it - LEDs draw less current so what they add is a resistor across the wires to the light (in parallel) to draw a bit more current to keep the system happy. When you changed back to an incandescent bulb you ended up with the normal current draw of the bulb PLUS the added current draw of the resistor. Not good. Those lights are driven by the BCM, and you ran into an over-current situation causing the output driver to sense a thermal problem, most likely causing the BCM's internal protection circuits to shut it down. (Most outputs from control modules are over-temperature protected.) If no permanent damage is done, the circuits usually reset in time, and start working again.

Sound reasonable?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by FurryOne
I'll take a whack at it - LEDs draw less current so what they add is a resistor across the wires to the light (in parallel) to draw a bit more current to keep the system happy. When you changed back to an incandescent bulb you ended up with the normal current draw of the bulb PLUS the added current draw of the resistor. Not good. Those lights are driven by the BCM, and you ran into an over-current situation causing the output driver to sense a thermal problem, most likely causing the BCM's internal protection circuits to shut it down. (Most outputs from control modules are over-temperature protected.) If no permanent damage is done, the circuits usually reset in time, and start working again.

Sound reasonable?

I am a decent mechanic on most heavy minor things (if that makes sense...I don't do internal stuff).....so yeah I just wanted to confirm some if not all the thoughts i had on the subject.....however I was thinking backwards on this and you have made me see the light.......get what i did there?...LOL THANKS
 
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Old Mar 19, 2018 | 11:01 PM
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Pulling more juice from a system designed for low current is a different bag entirely from pulling a low amount of juice from a system designed for high current.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 11:38 AM
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Before this goes to far what year bike. It makes a difference CANBUS handels LED's different. Did it have load levelers?
CANBUS does need Load leveler it will adapt to the change.
Just this morning swapped my 1996 to LED's turn signal bulbs front and rear and rear Tail light no problems.
 

Last edited by smitty901; Mar 20, 2018 at 11:40 AM.
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