When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The T70 is for the compensator. On the front pulley on the transmission, there is a long socket with a centering gizmo required to get that thin nut off the sprocket. It is very tight and will require heat or a strong impact driver to remove it.
yes, I have learned this in the last day or so looking it all up.
I've found a free home made socket for the pulley nut now, just trying to figure out the lock situation. (just started a post in the transmission section) trying to figure if this wood and old belt home made one, for the sportster, will work on the twin cam.
dumb question. there's a seal right behind this bastard nut. does heating the nut up that much, not screw the seal also?
I changed the seal and any others in there so I didn't care if the seal was heated. I forgot about the tool to hold the pulley while turning that nut. I don't know if you can come up with a way to hold it without the tool because the nut is very tight. My indy let me use his. You may be able to wrap the belt around it and around a bolt or something, but I doubt it. Maybe worth a try.
I changed the seal and any others in there so I didn't care if the seal was heated. I forgot about the tool to hold the pulley while turning that nut. I don't know if you can come up with a way to hold it without the tool because the nut is very tight. My indy let me use his. You may be able to wrap the belt around it and around a bolt or something, but I doubt it. Maybe worth a try.
Mine only has like 14,000km on it, and no leaks so I would prefer not to have to deal with the bearing and seal. I've heard the drill and smash method so that's on the list of techniques im going to try.
What bike do you have? I found another member made this tool for his wife's sportster, super simple, I can make this no problem. But will it work on the softails or breakout? We all know how the models are slightly different.
So i re-read the original thread and it actually says 1/8" spacer for breakout. Tried it as a test fit, no dice.
stock pulley gives me 1 3/4" to the rim
Aftermarket gives me 1 1/2" which means I'm 1/4 inch closer in. I'm sure I could make the 1/8" spacer I bought, work, but it likely won't work when I go to a 260 tire.
Should I do 1/2" or 3/8" to give that little extra room? It looked like I had enough room on the front sprocket when I took everything off.
Sorry about the random pictures and posts, not sure what's going on, my phone doesn't seem to want to let me edit posts very well... The one with the black teeth is the new pulley, no spacer, the one with the solver teeth is stock pulley
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Aug 13, 2018 at 11:12 PM.
Reason: Multiple posts
Aftermarket gives me 1 1/2" which means I'm 1/4 inch closer in. I'm sure I could make the 1/8" spacer I bought, work, but it likely won't work when I go to a 260 tire.
Should I do 1/2" or 3/8" to give that little extra room? It looked like I had enough room on the front sprocket when I took everything off.
I have a 260 tire on my Rocker, and used a .400 spacer with a custom 70T pulley.
From the 30/70 mod thread post #4...
OFFSET SPACERS:
>>> "For Breakout and Rocker you will need a 3/8" (.375) spacer, especially if you run a 260 tire."
You need to make sure the outside of the belt doesn't rub on the inside of the swingarm, a 1/2" (.500) spacer might be pushing it....
Last edited by Rocker B; Aug 13, 2018 at 02:39 PM.
Hmm, after looking at my front pulley, I feel like anything that wide is going to be pushing the limit.
Ended up getting a .305 spacer, and the numbers look better than factory, so I'm gonna run it, unless when I get the bike back together it just doesn't work...
Hmm, after looking at my front pulley, I feel like anything that wide is going to be pushing the limit.
Ended up getting a .305 spacer, and the numbers look better than factory, so I'm gonna run it, unless when I get the bike back together it just doesn't work...
Good luck, hopefully it works out for you!! I tried a 5/16" (.3125) spacer before installing the .400, but the belt rubbed the (260) tire. It might have worked with the 240...
Last edited by Rocker B; Aug 13, 2018 at 03:18 PM.
really? I thought people were saying the factory spacing worked with the 260, so as long as the new pulley is the same location or slightly farther out it should still work...
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
