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So just an update, got the primary cover off today to inspect everything inside. Tensioner shoe is good and chain within adjustment spec, oil was clean, compensator is in beautiful shape, as is clutch hub assembly. Compensator did feel easy backing off nut, hoping that's all it was. Gonna grab a new gasket and some fluid since it was due for a change anyways and get it buttoned back up.
Hopefully the noise was just the loose nut, but if I assemble and it still does it, I'm going to assume all is well since everything checked out ok
So just an update, got the primary cover off today to inspect everything inside. Tensioner shoe is good and chain within adjustment spec, oil was clean, compensator is in beautiful shape, as is clutch hub assembly. Compensator did feel easy backing off nut, hoping that's all it was. Gonna grab a new gasket and some fluid since it was due for a change anyways and get it buttoned back up.
Hopefully the noise was just the loose nut, but if I assemble and it still does it, I'm going to assume all is well since everything checked out ok
You did not clean up threads, prime proper primer, and apply permanent grade red Loctite? Need to cleck alternator rotor spline.
You did not clean up threads, prime proper primer, and apply permanent grade red Loctite? Need to cleck alternator rotor spline.
Huh? It's not reassembled yet if that's what you are referring to. I have a service manual, and I'm quite good at digging into primaries with the experience I had on my ultra classic.
Alternator rotor spline would be where the compensator rides in front of stator? Those splines are good. Everything that I checked was in like new shape
Not talking about shaft and I mistakenly called them splines and ment serations on new Harleys. The thin area where the serations of the alternator rotor with the glued in magnets will shuck off if the compensator is loose. Then if you tighten it up, it will slill slip soon wearing a groove in face of rotor. This will let the sprockets off set.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 6, 2019 at 02:39 PM.
Just in case you have a loose compensator nut......
I am just realizing something right now as I'm looking at my fsm for assembly. Torque spec originally was 150-165ftlbs, and now it's down to 75 with the extra degrees? Seems like an awful lot less torque....almost makes me leery of using the new bulletin, almost 100ftlbs less then original
I am just realizing something right now as I'm looking at my fsm for assembly. Torque spec originally was 150-165ftlbs, and now it's down to 75 with the extra degrees? Seems like an awful lot less torque....almost makes me leery of using the new bulletin, almost 100ftlbs less then original
It could in fact be a stronger hold.... The torque reading is influenced by many things. How many people use a new bolt, chase the old threads, and clean them prior to reassembly... even if you do that, then you have the accuracy of the torque wrench values to consider.
In high torques applications, many manufacturers require a medium torque value, to be followed by moving the bolt a certain number of degrees, for final tightening. There are many engines that use torque plus degrees for head bolts and other high torque applications. This isn't new...
Some think, torque plus degrees of movement, is a more repeatable and accurate way to tighten a fastener.
All back together, followed the service bulletin procedure, primary is back to sounding how it should...weird, but I'm ok with it. Gonna chalk it up to the compensator nut possibly coming loose....it did feel easy to break loose when I took it apart but then again if it was worked on before I got to it following the same bulletin, 75ftlbs isnt hard to back off.
Either way I'll keep an ear on it and see how it goes. So far, so good.
All back together, followed the service bulletin procedure, primary is back to sounding how it should...weird, but I'm ok with it. Gonna chalk it up to the compensator nut possibly coming loose....it did feel easy to break loose when I took it apart but then again if it was worked on before I got to it following the same bulletin, 75ftlbs isnt hard to back off.
Either way I'll keep an ear on it and see how it goes. So far, so good.
75 foot pounds plus the 45 degrees is likely tighter than the original 150 -165 ft lbs spec. Like hattitude posted, torque turn is the most common way of torquing large or higher torque stuff and many factors can play a role in how accurate the torque reading by the wrench is. Torque turn is more accurate. As much as 45% of the torque value read by the torque wrench is friction of the bottom side of the fastener against the surface being torqued and the friction of the threads. Obviously, the higher the torque value, the higher the friction between the parts. That is why is is more accurate to use a lower torque value and then achieve the final tightening with adding degrees of movement.
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