The first thing I would do is to check all the fuses.
The second thing I would do is to make sure there are no wires or fusible links disconnected.
The third thing I would do is to put a voltmeter to the battery and measure the voltage. (should be around 13.6V)
Then...with the voltmeter still hooked up, attempt to start bike and see if the voltage drops.
Oh...you wouldn't happen to have an Autocraft th20 battery, do you? If that's the case that's your problem. Throw that thing out and get a real battery. Something with at least 500 cca, like a Yuasa

 

Did most of that today. Fuses were fine. There were only three I could find in the manual. Meter was only about 12.5. But there is no change in the voltmeter because the bike doesn’t actually “try” to start when I hit the start button. Everything appears on. But no power fluctuation. As if it’s a dead switch.

 

The 12.5 worries me. I would hook a set of jumper cables to your car. Then, hook up a positive cable to the positive on your bike. Hook the negative to unpainted metal on your frame. Do NOT start the car. Try to start the bike. The car should have enough residual charge to start the bike up. If the bike starts up check the volts on the battery. It should be around 14v.

 

Never jump a bike with a running car as shaggieshapiro said. Motorcycle electrical systems are not designed to handle 90 to 120 amps like a car. Can cause all kinds of damage. Battery to battery is all you need.

 

You obviously don´t know what your talking about.
It´s not the source that determins the current. It´s the consumer (read Startermotor) The source can only limit the current, but the startermotor needs the current it is trying to use.

 

All that green light is telling you is the battery has 12vdc on it not that it's capable of the amp draw needed to turn the bike over.

My Son's Heritage wouldn't start either the other day and his 1 year old battery (that was on a tender) was the cause.
Swapped out the battery (under warranty) and off we went.

It very well might not be the battery, but at a minimum have it tested before your drag the bike down to the dealer.
Hell just pushing it through the dealer's door is going to cost you more that the price of a battery.

 

Forget about screwing around with jumper cables, you won`t gain a thing by jump starting the bike, what you need to do is troubleshoot and find the issue.

Jump starting isn`t going to hurt anything (despite what some who don`t understand electricity say), but in this case is just a waste of time).

Remove battery and charge fully.

Load test battery (I bet it is shot).

Remove battery cables and clean terminals.

OP: If you sent the bike to a shop, let us know so we don`t waste our time on this thread.

 

No worries. Sent to shop after a few more tests last night. Like I said earlier, my bigger concern was the new codes that were showing up and the simple fact that there isn't even an attempt at turn over when hitting the start button. I will pass on the outcome when I have it though. Didn't plan to cause that much controversy. Just wondering if the codes plus the lack of handlebar signal meant anything in the broader context. Appreciate the info though guys! Always enlightening.

 

surely even a flat (but not dead since it's driving the dash lights) battery would have enough to engage the starter solenoid which draws very little current? so the OP would hear the solenoid clicking at least if the bike was attempting to start.

 

Without knowing bike year,history, condition and from a distance, base on information provided.
It would seem like battery was probably compromised...low voltage situation and possible bad cell(s).
Unfortunately battery was not removed and load tested.
A load test would have confirmed battery condition.
It could have also been a bad battery connection at one of the 4 ends of the cables to the battery or a bad battery itself.
It seems like there is no history in regards to charging system or if bike had some kind of alarm or electrical item that could have caused a battery drain.
No mention of actual battery in bike..wet cell, AGM, Lithium ?
Simple items can cause a battery drain: for example an alarm or a USB adapter to battery tender cable to charge a phone if left unattended for a month.
There is no report of when bike last started OK or the age of the battery.
Voltage alone is not a perfect indicator.
Hopefully the car was OFF when a jump was attempted.
Modern cars will try to compensate by throwing more voltage than bike can shunt if the engine on car is running.
Based on the limited information it would seem that codes were related to a diminished voltage situation.
The "No RsP" could have been because run/stop switch was in wrong position during attempted reading or because of the low voltage situation.
A loose connection or low voltage situation can make things act weird and throw codes.
Almost makes me think that you have a combination problem of a compromised battery, loose connection at battery cables and that maybe handlebars or controls were changed and a wire was loose.
Does your year/model have a clutch switch that must be activated for bike to start?
The subaru horn situation is probably a security/theft deterrent feature of that vehicle as it "thinks" that someone is playing with battery.
The sparks are probably due to wire attachment sequence.
Sometimes a few simple checks can save you significant amounts of money.
Hopefully the dealer will treat you well.
Let us know how it goes.